I've been using the Aerotank for about a couple of weeks and all of a sudden it wont detect the atomizer anymore on an eVic. I tried putting in a new coil with same results. I then put back my old ViVi Nova tank and it works fine. What's the deal?
no atomizer found on new Kanger AeroTank
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Not sure if the Aero has an adjustable firing pin, but it sounds like the pins aren't making a stable connection. Check where the coil pin meets the battery pin.
Vivi Nova's are known to have center posts that are way too long. It is possible that by using a Vivi Nova on your Evic you have with time pushed the center post on the Evic 510 connector down too far, so it will still make contact with the Vivi - but not much of anything else. You need to try working the center post on the Evic back up a bit. Try grabbing the center post with some good slant tweezers to pull it back up - just a little. Try the Aero tank again. Repeat & pull up a bit more if needed.
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I just got the Aerotank bases for my Protank 2s and 3s. I love them on my eVic but I get the same message. When I pull the tank from the base, the coil comes right off with it. If I screw it tight, it's fine again. Full disclosure - I'm using up my single coils for the meantime.
I compared the Vivi and the Aerotank and both center posts looks exactly the same length. In either case I tried using a tweezer to pull the eVic post up but its so recessed I can barely grab on to it. I would like to at least test if the issue is with the Aerotank itself so I can get an exchange. What metal can I use to put between the 2 posts to test?
No, but you can use it to pull the Tank pin down ever so slightly.
Welcome to Kangers #1 flaw.
Doesn't matter if the 2 look the same. Pin height plus 510 threading make the total structure.
eVic should be fine if everything else is working in it. No need to be pulling on it.
No atomizer found is one of 2 things:
No pin contact
Broken Coil
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I just removed the coil and was able to push the pin from the inside out, however its still not working because...
1. the coil is not touching the pin (due to me pushing out the pin)
2. the tank pin is not touching the evic pin (maybe once its screwed on the tank pin gets pushed back in)
3. the coil is broken
Once again if I can use some kind of metal to test it would at least eliminate some of these scenarios.
1. the coil is not touching the pin (due to me pushing out the pin)
2. the tank pin is not touching the evic pin (maybe once its screwed on the tank pin gets pushed back in)
3. the coil is broken
Once again if I can use some kind of metal to test it would at least eliminate some of these scenarios.
If you have a multimeter with removable leads, you can use that. You don't want to just use any old piece of metal as it would not be insulated, and therefore when you hit the fire button you would get a shock. Also different metals have different current resistance. Additionally, with a multimeter, you can check the resistance of the coil to ensure it is a complete circuit, and the coil has not popped. Also can check the MOD by ensuring the proper voltage is actually firing when you fire the device.
This probably sounds confusing, so maybe someone else could easier explain what I'm trying to say.
I don't have a multimeter so I removed the coil from the kanger and made a direct contact with evic pin and it still says "no atomizer found". I tested the other coil that came with the kanger with same results. I then did the same with the coil from Vivi and it found the atomizer so I figured the kanger coils are both broken. I then took a q-tip and cleaned the evic contact pin and for some reason the kanger is working now. What the hell?
Every Kanger head I use, leaves a touch of liquid on my connectors. This is due to the way I take a draw and I flood occasionaly. The liquid then goes the only place it can, out the hole in the bottom of the head. This leaves juice on the connection. I have just gotten used to taking a qtip every time I take my tank off and cleaning my connectors. It's getting better now that I am not so gung hoe, sucking on the drip tip like its a McDonalds milkshake, trying to get everything in one draw.
Is this normal for bottom coil tanks or a flaw in the Kanger design?
It is how the tanks work. As you draw air through it the vacuum created draws the juice out of the tank to the coil. Draw to hard and you will flood the tank, draw to light and the coil drys up giving dry hits. The point of the aero tank is you can adjust the air flow to help get to this ideal amount of vacuum to keep the coils wet but not flood the head. A tighter draw makes for more juice sucked out of the tank.
Indeed. I have switched my Protank 2 to an aero base. This has solved my problems completely. Additionaly, if I do get any slight leakage, it is all confined in the base, and doesn't get down in the connection on my MOD's.
New Vaporitus
Knowing something needs to be done, but not what to do.
Often this leads to mistakes and equipment damage.
1 tip, now that you have had a little time with this. NEVER wedge a piece of metal between the tank and device top. a slip/ a short /a Dead Device.
Better to find answers than keep asking permission to do the unthinkable.
Knowing something needs to be done, but not what to do.
Often this leads to mistakes and equipment damage.
1 tip, now that you have had a little time with this. NEVER wedge a piece of metal between the tank and device top. a slip/ a short /a Dead Device.
Better to find answers than keep asking permission to do the unthinkable.
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