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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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No Love For Genesis Tanks Now That KFLs Are So Popular?
- Thread starter Bigflyrodder
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So where do ekowool/xc116 folks fall under?
I kind of find it humorous and fun to divide into the domains to add some semi-official standings to those who wish to commit to any one of those.
I kind of find it humorous and fun to divide into the domains to add some semi-official standings to those who wish to commit to any one of those.
If memory serves me, the ekowool/xc116 camp ceded to the Sultans of Silica during the SilllyCosis War of '12. The movie rights have been sold and it should be appearing at a theater near you soon......
True Grasshopper but the Mesh Masters are a devious lot and must be watched with a careful eye. They will plunder your juice stores and other mean stuff...... sorry, was at a loss for words at the end
Wonder if someone could come up with an online game out of this "fantasy"???? Would be something to do while heating your mesh....lol
As Myk said, when I run certain juices (Especially Unicorn Blood) through my dual coil Kraken, BOTH coils will get pretty gunked up. Without using anything else I can vape the rest or save the rest and run the coils under water (Sometimes) and dry burn the hell out of it with the top cap off. Gets rid of everything, and with that the mesh and coils will last for fricking ever. RTAs, as I believe they're being called now, seem to not be as easily compatible with any build out there. How are these more customizable than gennies if a genny can do everything an RTA (?) can plus more? I.E. you can (very easily) use SS Mesh, cotton, silica, or anything else in every (Or at least almost every) genesis out there, but RTAs are more designed for cotton and silica builds. I'm not trying to pick a fight, I'm genuinely wondering what you can do with an RTA that you can't with a genesis.
Oh and when you have that access to the coils you can adjust your coils on your mesh, which makes mesh builds a LOT easier (And don't tell me mesh sucks lol).
Don't many RTAs (Like the Kayfun) have plastic tanks? I know I've seen metal tanks for the Kayfun, but that still blows. I like to see how much juice I have left AND not worry about cracking. This is all, of course, opinion and it comes down to what an individual perceives/prefers. In my opinion, the analogy I gave might not have been the most accurate, but it's what I felt was somewhat accurate. I'm just a geek so I guess I assumed it would have been taken for granted, but I failed to mention that part of the analogy was that you CAN jailbreak iPhones and have pretty much the same freedom as Androids (Pretty much), it just takes more work to get the iPhone to do something it wasn't immediately supposed to. Androids, on the other hand, are a little harder to set up but can suit one type of user just as well as another type if they are both willing to work for it. Also I just realized you might have taken it as an insult if you love Android and hate iOS. I prefer Android myself, but in my head neither is superior, it's the user's preference and what they want from the device, so I'm looking at the comparison like that as well.
Totally agreed. I think most people roll the wick too tight (In the wick hole, I'm not talking about closed vs. hollow) in something without extra air intake and it ends up creating a vacuum that stops juice from feeding well. In my Kraken clone I'm running .9 ohm dual coils with 400 SS Mesh wicks and it wicks like a beast. I actually have to try to get a hint of a dry hit and it wicks so well I can't dry burn it unless I keep all the juice off the wicks.
Before I got decent at building with mesh I had to screw with my coils quite a bit before getting them right. I find that the biggest issue with getting into building coils is that you don't realize how important spacing is. All the coils should be as equally spaced as possible, and that should take care of issues. If it doesn't, try torching your wire and mesh first. Then wrap the coil around something about the size of your air hole, but get in a good amount of wraps. Get something like tweezers and apply pressure to both ends of the coil while or after torching it, repeat until the wraps are all touching then put it on whatever you wrapped it around. Straighten it out and make sure all the coils are touching and look nice and pretty. Roll a SMALL amount of SS mesh around something, again, the size of the same air hole. Take it off, and use your fingers roll it repeatedly in the same direction to tighten the wick further. If it's not tightening roll in the opposite direction. If it's not tightening either way you're doing it wrong lol. Get it so that the coil fits on it fairly loosely. Just enough so that the coil doesn't move back and forth on the coil but loose enough so that it has SOME resistance and will stay put. Position the coil so a small amount of your wick is above the coils and torch the wick with the coil where it'll be after you build it. Really torch the spots where the coil is on the wick and cut the bottom of the mesh off so that you have about .5 - 1 cm from the bottom of your tank to the bottom of the wick. Leave less room (I.E. longer wicks) if you don't refill your tank often. Put the wick into the hole (Should easily fit) and carefully tighten down the legs of the coil (Making sure both legs are roughly the same length seems to prevent hot legs if that's a problem for you). Before you fill the tank up stick it on your device and pulse it. Start pulsing it longer and look for any hot spots. If you have any, get something like a pocket knife and start neatening up your coils. Get them all as even as possible and very tight. If you're still getting hot spots try tapping them or screwing with the coil WHILE heating it up on your device. The first time I used this exact method was my first dual coil attempt since I needed more resistance per coil to achieve the same end resistance and it works perfectly. I use 28 gauge wire and 400 mesh, rarely run into stubborn problems any more
Another reason why I love the genesis-style removable top caps; you can get SO much out of a coil and mesh build it's ridiculous. I think those people that hate mesh but will go through crazy builds have plenty of patience, but just don't want to learn how to work with mesh because they're fine with their cotton or whatever else they might use and have no desire to delve into other wicking materials.
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Wouldn't have time for a game since the vape works always and forever. lol
It's not that they are, it's that they're designed to deliver efficiently using a relatively basic setup. And you can wick em with anything really. What they generally do NOT do is waste juice via condensation and have tiny chambers that vaporize efficiently than most huge top caps out there.
Why you simply make sure you set it completely before you close it back up.
Fogger series- easy to open up and uses pyrex, so there are ones out that are comparable as far as this goes.
And you can get even more out of mesh in a Kayfun style, plus not have tons of wasted condensation building up on the flat deck. That was the only, but a HUGE turn-off for me. If there was a slanted deck design that would help re-collect the juice back towards the wick, then I'd gladly check that kind of genny out again, but til then alas.
Are you seriously worried about a drop of already been vaporized liquid?
I figured out early on everything is going to have some waste and to keep paper towels handy. The bits left in needles and inside of caps are part of the cost of doing business.
I don't get that much build up in my caps and on my decks (which I suspect is as much, or more from splattering as it is condensation). I don't think it's size as much as it's turbulence for condensation. My Pulse has a lot more than my T2s.
Whichever atty you evaporate liquids in will have condensation. Some more visible than others. The fact that you can't see it in an enclosed Kayfun doesn't mean it's not there. Run some TP through any drip tip, and you'll see.
But say in Kayfuns, the chimney is very small and its ceiling is a cone shape that helps that condensation run back down into the wicks. On a flat deck of any RDA, unless you use some cotton or something to catch and route it back towards the wick it's mostly wasted and just sits there.
I have a huge peeve for sloppy designs where something as simple as recollection-friendly shape was completely ignored.
I have a huge peeve for sloppy designs where something as simple as recollection-friendly shape was completely ignored.
And that condensation has already been vaporized. Do you really want to vaporize it again?
I think I'd spend some time collecting condensation and tasting it/testing the nicotine before I'd build a design to recycle it. I'd rather build a design to minimize it happening in the first place.
I really don't see it in my T2's. The surfaces are moist after a tank but it's not a bunch. It's either getting recycled or it's not that much.
My Standard Did is alive and well, thank you. 4 strands 32g kanthal wrapped in parallel. 4/3 wrap. 0.6Ω. 270 50mm straw rolled on a 5/64 Allen key.
Some knee-bends, shoulder-stretches-chuffs along quite nicely
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I just wanted to come back and say thanks to Annie for this. I'd never seen parallel before. Looks awesome and with that wick coverage i thought that should work great. Well it did!!!
I wrapped a dual parallel with 28g, 3/4 at about .4+ ohms. Awesome!! Now I have use for the 30 and 32g that's been gathering dust. And pull out another genny that has been gathering dust. Thanks Annie!
I guess its assuming that initial heat-up indeed does vaporize the juice fully and completely. I do still taste the regular nasty taste when the condensation builds up under the drip dip and accidentally gets pulled in my mouth, so I recon there's still plenty to salvage from it.
Do you have a link to a video or pictorial on mesh on a Kayfun? I have mesh working great on Taifuns but haven't seen it on a Kayfun and didn't think you could get it to bend down and lay right.
I love the build it and forget it for a looooong time with SS mesh
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