[h=1]Cotton wick on Phoenix Rebuilable Atomizer.wmv...its safer on the lungs.[/h]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdVhwtKRmyk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdVhwtKRmyk
No More Silica .
- Thread starter Heavyrocker
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Where is the proof?
I still haven't seen any medical reports stating about how dangerous silica is.
I still haven't seen any medical reports stating about how dangerous silica is.
cool video
one issue i might have with that guy.
When he measured the ohms of his multimeter by touching the lead wires on the meter he, after having to reset the device and complaining how "cheap it was" got a reading of 1.2 ohms. This was after the machine first gave him a reading of 22 ohms.
the reading of 1.3 was testing the lead wires on the device.
now then he says 5 wraps give him 3.8 when he touches the lead wires to the atty he just rebuilt. When ohms is measured by length of wire and not #of wraps. I.E. he should have measured his wire length and worked with the proper length of wire instead of guesstimating everything. Find one of the many ohms calculators available and enter your length and gauge.
http://www.cirris.com/testing/resistance/wire.html
http://www.cirris.com/testing/resistance/wirecalc.html
a lenth of 1 foot of 36 gauge wire will give (ideal) 0.415 ohms
now this is where i go huh?
when says "3.8 - 1.2 is uhh what i dont even know 2.6"(because he got a reading of 1.3 not 1.2 lol)
he subtraceted the ohms reading of the wires, which should not matter because he was taking a reading on the atty and not his lead wires. the wires should have had 0 ohms because they were not touching each other. Additionaly Multimeters, even the infamous Fluke are accurate with a range of 5-10%, sometimes higher depending on model. Considering that the ohms of an atty makes a huge difference in flavor, temp of vapor etc...i've got a pretty good inkling he was off on his measurement.
because his reading 3.8 within a tolerance of 10% would mean his reading could be from 4.18 to 3.42(the variable being .38) in reality. but again im fairly sure his readings were off due to the fact he stated his multimeter was bad(when they give off the wall readings like his did that's usually a big indicator its time to toss it.)
and please dont get me started on what dangers he is facing by heating aluminum wire like that in something he is going to inhale. Steel , i cant say because if they used zinc in it, well that could be really bad unless its lead free zinc. Though most zinc core wire has lead in it. the only place you likely wont find it is in something intended to burn, like some candle wicks that use zinc cores.
i applaud that guy for his ingenuity, but shudder to think what he actually is doing messing with electricity and wire he got at radio shack or wal mart.
one issue i might have with that guy.
When he measured the ohms of his multimeter by touching the lead wires on the meter he, after having to reset the device and complaining how "cheap it was" got a reading of 1.2 ohms. This was after the machine first gave him a reading of 22 ohms.
the reading of 1.3 was testing the lead wires on the device.
now then he says 5 wraps give him 3.8 when he touches the lead wires to the atty he just rebuilt. When ohms is measured by length of wire and not #of wraps. I.E. he should have measured his wire length and worked with the proper length of wire instead of guesstimating everything. Find one of the many ohms calculators available and enter your length and gauge.
http://www.cirris.com/testing/resistance/wire.html
http://www.cirris.com/testing/resistance/wirecalc.html
a lenth of 1 foot of 36 gauge wire will give (ideal) 0.415 ohms
now this is where i go huh?
when says "3.8 - 1.2 is uhh what i dont even know 2.6"(because he got a reading of 1.3 not 1.2 lol)
he subtraceted the ohms reading of the wires, which should not matter because he was taking a reading on the atty and not his lead wires. the wires should have had 0 ohms because they were not touching each other. Additionaly Multimeters, even the infamous Fluke are accurate with a range of 5-10%, sometimes higher depending on model. Considering that the ohms of an atty makes a huge difference in flavor, temp of vapor etc...i've got a pretty good inkling he was off on his measurement.
because his reading 3.8 within a tolerance of 10% would mean his reading could be from 4.18 to 3.42(the variable being .38) in reality. but again im fairly sure his readings were off due to the fact he stated his multimeter was bad(when they give off the wall readings like his did that's usually a big indicator its time to toss it.)
and please dont get me started on what dangers he is facing by heating aluminum wire like that in something he is going to inhale. Steel , i cant say because if they used zinc in it, well that could be really bad unless its lead free zinc. Though most zinc core wire has lead in it. the only place you likely wont find it is in something intended to burn, like some candle wicks that use zinc cores.
i applaud that guy for his ingenuity, but shudder to think what he actually is doing messing with electricity and wire he got at radio shack or wal mart.
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Please read this whole thread if you can,i did,you will get excellent insight and knowledge.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/284030-wick-materials-safe-vs-dangerous.html
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lol He just needs to get a better ohm meter. That looked like one of those $4.99 jobs.
just a couple links on metal inhalation when said metal is burnt
aluminum(scroll down to where it explains inhalation hazards) mmm fume metal fever...
http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9922844
Stainless steel
http://www.onlinemetals.com/info/msds/stainless.pdf
Steel
Steel MSDS
these are just random msds sheets found via google. they are posted so you understand the inherent metals found in these types of wire.
i looked at your thread posted heavy, i'd bet that black stuff on his wick is nothing more than over-burnt e-liquid that has caramelized. Though i see how it could be a concern if that was an issue with the silica melting.
aluminum(scroll down to where it explains inhalation hazards) mmm fume metal fever...
http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9922844
Stainless steel
http://www.onlinemetals.com/info/msds/stainless.pdf
Steel
Steel MSDS
these are just random msds sheets found via google. they are posted so you understand the inherent metals found in these types of wire.
i looked at your thread posted heavy, i'd bet that black stuff on his wick is nothing more than over-burnt e-liquid that has caramelized. Though i see how it could be a concern if that was an issue with the silica melting.
ahh ok,
Well aluminum oxide, burnt steel, and or stainless can kill you from the metal fever. I would say, in my humble opinion, if your gonna buy wire and repair your own gear, buy something that was intended to be burnt. Dont buy craft wire from walmart or similar.
I felt the metal info was needed, in case someone saw this thread and though "oh hey i can get wire and gauze from wal mart and fix my own for cheap!" which would possibly be fatal if they bought aluminum wire and it oxidized while they were inhaling it.
the gauze on the other hand should be fine, so long as you prime it before using it. But we pretty much do that anyways by letting tanks, clearo's and such soak for a few mins before vaping. I am curious how the cotton will hold up to dry burning though. Kinda seems like you'd have to replace it quite often.
Well aluminum oxide, burnt steel, and or stainless can kill you from the metal fever. I would say, in my humble opinion, if your gonna buy wire and repair your own gear, buy something that was intended to be burnt. Dont buy craft wire from walmart or similar.
I felt the metal info was needed, in case someone saw this thread and though "oh hey i can get wire and gauze from wal mart and fix my own for cheap!" which would possibly be fatal if they bought aluminum wire and it oxidized while they were inhaling it.
the gauze on the other hand should be fine, so long as you prime it before using it. But we pretty much do that anyways by letting tanks, clearo's and such soak for a few mins before vaping. I am curious how the cotton will hold up to dry burning though. Kinda seems like you'd have to replace it quite often.
cotton does not hold up to dry burns at all it burns and the ends of your wick fall off. (not that i would know from experience or anything lol)
i have taken several old nova heads apart and have never seen any deterioration like the wick shown in that link, i think it was purposefully abused or seriously old, this has been beaten to death, and the fact remains the silica shards issue has not been proven beyond a few unscientific posts here.,
think about the size of a nova coil, what, maybe 2 mil wide? to be receiving enough material to actually be doing damage the silica would have to be deteriorating at such a rate the head is no good in 2-3 days! and I have some heads here still functioning just fine in the 6 to 8 week range.
and about the wire, the wire we use is specifically designed to be used in heating elements, and the temps we normally vape at are nowhere near the melting points of these wires. once the initial burn off and oxidation occurs the chance of being exposed to the metal base materials is so slim.
people have been doing this a long time man, if these were common problems they would be common news and the vaping community as a whole would find something else to use and move on..,
anyone afraid of exposure can always go light a smoke, cause you know, the smoke is so much safer......
worrying for the sake of worrying is just worrying too much IMHO.............................
i have taken several old nova heads apart and have never seen any deterioration like the wick shown in that link, i think it was purposefully abused or seriously old, this has been beaten to death, and the fact remains the silica shards issue has not been proven beyond a few unscientific posts here.,
think about the size of a nova coil, what, maybe 2 mil wide? to be receiving enough material to actually be doing damage the silica would have to be deteriorating at such a rate the head is no good in 2-3 days! and I have some heads here still functioning just fine in the 6 to 8 week range.
and about the wire, the wire we use is specifically designed to be used in heating elements, and the temps we normally vape at are nowhere near the melting points of these wires. once the initial burn off and oxidation occurs the chance of being exposed to the metal base materials is so slim.
people have been doing this a long time man, if these were common problems they would be common news and the vaping community as a whole would find something else to use and move on..,
anyone afraid of exposure can always go light a smoke, cause you know, the smoke is so much safer......
worrying for the sake of worrying is just worrying too much IMHO.............................
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