Non-mechanical APV with 15s+ cut-off?

[Kellycat]

Anybody know if there are any APVs that have longer/no automatic cut-offs? My Vamo is pretty close to what I'm looking for, but I still can't fully inhale at the pace I'd like to without it doing the automatic atty shut-off. I generally do a 15-20 second drag before my lungs are full, and I believe the Vamo V2 cuts out at 10 seconds. Not sure if the Provari is better or worse, I have a clone eGo here that actually manages about ten seconds or more, but another cuts out at maybe 5s, so I'd rather avoid guessing on those if at all possible.

Related: Do passthroughs have any sort of auto-cutoff? Can't find any info about it really, maybe I'm not looking in the right places..would consider a purely hardwired eGo Mini or similar if I can get that full draw in while I'm at my desk.

ETA: Looks like the Provari is 16s, just about perfect, except for the price tag. Anybody got other ideas?

 

[dr g]

DNA20s have no cutoff

 

[Kellycat]

DNA20s have no cutoff

Thanks, just checked into them, pretty affordable too, only $50 for a chip. Speccing the DNA12 now as I think it'd be more suitable for my intended housing, but both look very nice.

 

[double_aa_ron]

I like using a kick. Lots of versatility. You can kick almost any mechanical tube mod.

If you want something ready made, tough, and vv check out the saber touch. Super customizable too.

 

[Kellycat]

I like using a kick. Lots of versatility. You can kick almost any mechanical tube mod.

If you want something ready made, tough, and vv check out the saber touch. Super customizable too.

Will look into both, though I admit I'm leaning more towards something like the Kick or DNA20/12 at the moment. The Kick fits an 18650 tube with 18500/18490 battery, correct? Would work great if that's the case, as I have a Vamo V2 shell here I'm turning into a 'hybrid' mechanical/VV, if the Kick fits with a smaller battery that'd save me building the VV/VW controller from scratch, and leave me able to convert it to a true mechanical 18650 by removing the Kick too.

ETA: Answered my own question, the Kick does work with a 18500 in a 18650 tube.

 

[Thrasher]

theres also the evercool chip

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/114901-evercool-variable-voltage-mod.html

 

[Kellycat]

theres also the evercool chip

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/114901-evercool-variable-voltage-mod.html

Thanks for that link, gives me something to check my prior DIY VV/VW board against, found a couple errors in mine that could've led to some nasty problems down the road. Funny enough, that's darned similar to what I had sketched out already, just a much more efficient regulator in use. Probably going with either a homebrew version of that, or a DNA20 for the nice screen and easy adjust-ability, both seem to be of a size to fit in the gutted Vamo comfortably.

 

[deniz]

I lift and press it again (quarter of a sec maybe) while I'm taking a long drag and It works for me

 

[Kellycat]

I lift and press it again (quarter of a sec maybe) while I'm taking a long drag and It works for me

Also a good point, and a habit I've been using on my eGos, the issue is if I miss the 'sweet spot' to do that on the one with shorter cut-off, it blinks maybe seven or more times, takes about three seconds before I can re-fire. On my Vamo that does work nicely though, hold for around eight seconds, release the pressure just slightly and hit it again while still inhaling, gives me almost a full 20 seconds and a very nice hit.

Somewhat unrelated note: After looking at the EverCool, I realized the TI chip used won't work unless I stack batteries, and I hate the idea of stacking 18350s due to the generally low current and mAh ratings on them, so I went looking and found the Emerson LDO10C line-up, specifically the LDO10C-005W05-SJ. Single-chip switching regulator that'll take a 3.7v input and spit out regulated voltage between 0.6-5v, with a 10A current limit, more than enough for my needs. Best part is the minimum input voltage before it shuts down is 3v exactly, so a 3.7v AWR high-drain at 3.1-3.2v should sag that far under load and shut the system down automatically. Will still be using protected batteries, probably Panasonics, but that's another line of defense, as it won't fire at all if the battery is below 3v.

 

[AlB53]

I get 16 sec. out of my ProVari..

 

[Thrasher]

im going to try stuffing a nivel chip in an old provari body i have myself, same one button interface and already prewired drop in and go.

 

[anavidfan]

You might look in to the Kick 2 it goes up to 15w and lets you get more battery time and you can use lower resistance attachments.

 

[Kellycat]

You might look in to the Kick 2 it goes up to 15w and lets you get more battery time and you can use lower resistance attachments.

Couldn't find a dealer with it available, and Evolve's site doesn't seem to list them for sale specifically through them. Pretty much set on using a home-grown device now based on that regulator I posted, I'm no stranger to electronics so it shouldn't take long to build and test something workable. Probably slap a thumbwheel trimpot on the adjustment and maybe add a connection for a volt meter to check voltages.

 

[dr g]

Somewhat unrelated note: After looking at the EverCool, I realized the TI chip used won't work unless I stack batteries, and I hate the idea of stacking 18350s due to the generally low current and mAh ratings on them, so I went looking and found the Emerson LDO10C line-up, specifically the LDO10C-005W05-SJ. Single-chip switching regulator that'll take a 3.7v input and spit out regulated voltage between 0.6-5v, with a 10A current limit, more than enough for my needs. Best part is the minimum input voltage before it shuts down is 3v exactly, so a 3.7v AWR high-drain at 3.1-3.2v should sag that far under load and shut the system down automatically. Will still be using protected batteries, probably Panasonics, but that's another line of defense, as it won't fire at all if the battery is below 3v.

IMO that 5v top end is going to be limiting.

 

[Kellycat]

IMO that 5v top end is going to be limiting.

I never vape above around 4.2v, I'm not a cloud chaser, just looking for something with stable performance with a normal atty installed. With the ten amp limit I can go as low as a half-ohm coil at 5 volts and get a full 50w of continuous output power through my atomizer, which is far more than I'll ever possibly need with the setups I run. I expect daily use will be a custom Evod head wrapped around 0.8-1.0ohm and a voltage around 2.6-2.8v, which yields roughly 7+ watts of power, in line with my normal settings on my old Vamo. Also only pulls 3A maximum in the worst case, well below the 10A maximum rating on that regulator, and easy enough to heatsink to a SS chassis or dedicated heatsink.

ETA: Even using a SR/HR atty at 3ohm, I can get seven watts at 4.5v/1.5A, again, more than enough for what I'm using this for. If I was getting heavily into unique builds, high-power vaping, etc, I can see how a 5v maximum would be a bad thing, but for an all-day vape, I'm thinking this'll be approaching overkill territory. I just want something I know how to fix if it breaks, and better yet, something that won't break in the first place, unlike the Vamo's screen possibly burning out, or any number of other failures. Yes, I know, built like a tank, and all that, but I'm a tinkerer and I'd rather DIY than trust a pre-fab mod. For what I'd spend on a high-end VV/VW mod, I can build two of these easily, with money left over. Estimated cost for the control circuitry and needed switches/pots/connectors/epoxy is under $40.