Odysseus Questions

[LongDraw]

I use 3.5mm wick.

My trick? After I build my coil (2.5 wraps of DC 32g/34g) and set it on the ceramic, I trim off 3 strands from each side of the wick (channel-laden). This way, the coil holds awesome juice (full 3.5mm) and the channels wick really well (2.5mm).

Got my second ody up and running. I cut two wick strands from each channel and I do really like this. So much so I may rebuild my other ody again so I can trim the wicks in the channel as well. That will also give me a little more practice. So far found not counting the wrap from the NR/R joint a 5/6 of 30 gauge on 3.5 silica gives me 1.5 ohms, good deal.

I wasn't able to get the housing as tight as I would like it but it is working for now so that works.

Thanks everybody for the help, very much appreciated. Looking forward to getting better with the gg products, that way will be ready for when my Ithaka arrives.

 

[LongDraw]

Yes you need a small plastic under the housing and a o ring inside the ceramic try one of the resellers for the small plastic. The o ring size is available on gg wiki. For the time being you can use a o ring under the housing until you get the small plastic . I have a few plastics spare I can give if you cannot get one from the resellers.

If you have time could you show me a picture of that piece, or tell me the number on the gg wiki. I have looked on the gg wiki and only see the oring for between the center post and under the housing, not one inside of the housing. Right now mine is working, but that may be why I can not get it any tighter regardless of how much I pull and turn.

 

[imeothanasis]

if center post just spins, then you can keep the nut inside ceramic with a small screwdriver Long. Just push a little the nut while you unscrew the center post

This person must have had hands of steel. Keep using padded pliers but it doesn't budge the center post, the center post just spins in the padding. Kinda worried about applying to much more pressure cause if it breaks then I won't be able to use my other odysseus. Would breaking the ceramic like the other poster suggested allow me better access to the nut in the housing then?

Don't know how it is so tight. Looking down inside you can see a lot of threading still as well.

 

[imeothanasis]

Great Long!

I got it, I got it, I got it. Rather then using the pliers on the post itself, I gripped the nurled piece on the post, was then easily able to unscrew.

Thanks everybody. Now time to put together the v2 housing.

Edit: Last Q (probably not the last, but maybe for a bit haha. Is there supposed to be an oring in the housing under the nut?

Now working on trying to make it tight enough so it doesn't spin when I put the other nut on and off on the center post.

 

[omarr]

I got it, I got it, I got it. Rather then using the pliers on the post itself, I gripped the nurled piece on the post, was then easily able to unscrew.

Thanks everybody. Now time to put together the v2 housing.

Edit: Last Q (probably not the last, but maybe for a bit haha. Is there supposed to be an oring in the housing under the nut?

Now working on trying to make it tight enough so it doesn't spin when I put the other nut on and off on the center post.

That is unfortunate then because this one does not have an oring for inside the ceramic, only under the housing. Maybe that is why I can not get it to tighten enough even with pulling on the housing and turning

If you have time could you show me a picture of that piece, or tell me the number on the gg wiki. I have looked on the gg wiki and only see the oring for between the center post and under the housing, not one inside of the housing. Right now mine is working, but that may be why I can not get it any tighter regardless of how much I pull and turn.

The size of it is the same as the small o ring that goes under the nut that you secure your positive wire with, The o ring which goes between the 510 base and rebuildable part.

 

[imeothanasis]

if you have V1 Ody you dont need the o-ring inside ceramic Long

That is unfortunate then because this one does not have an oring for inside the ceramic, only under the housing. Maybe that is why I can not get it to tighten enough even with pulling on the housing and turning

 

[omarr]

I got it, I got it, I got it. Rather then using the pliers on the post itself, I gripped the nurled piece on the post, was then easily able to unscrew.

Thanks everybody. Now time to put together the v2 housing.

Edit: Last Q (probably not the last, but maybe for a bit haha. Is there supposed to be an oring in the housing under the nut?

Now working on trying to make it tight enough so it doesn't spin when I put the other nut on and off on the center post.

That is unfortunate then because this one does not have an oring for inside the ceramic, only under the housing. Maybe that is why I can not get it to tighten enough even with pulling on the housing and turning

if you have V1 Ody you dont need the o-ring inside ceramic Long

If its a v1 then you don't need the o ring as Imeo said use a small jewellers type screwdriver and tighten the nut.

 

[LongDraw]

if you have V1 Ody you dont need the o-ring inside ceramic Long

Both are v2's. But i am guessing the issue came from the seller sent me a v1 complete housing then sent the v2 stainless housing and I had to switch the center post to the v2. Will have to look on COV for the oring/plastic for inside the housing part. It is working right now without it.

 

[LongDraw]

Imeo,

I think in another thread I had started about the odysseus you mentioned that some of the plastic pieces for under the nut inside the housing will be coming in with people preorders this month, is that right or did I misread?

I was also wondering if extras of the rebiuldable part ready v2 for the odysseus would also be coming in?

Thinking it would be nice to get the plastic piece needed for the v2 I have now, and maybe just get an extra one.

 

[fright88]

How dose only useing 1 me wire work??

Twist 1 nr wire and 1 res wire together in the normal fasion but make sure your resistance piece is longer then normal. Start wrapping your resistance wire around the wick at the point where the 2 wires meet. Wrap as many turns as you want. Put the end with the nr wire in the end of the housing with the ceramic and attach that end as normal. Put the other end (the res wire end in the other side tuck the res wire under the wick. Since the other side of the housing is metal no nr wire is needed because electricity will travel the path of least resistance so it should complete the circuit at the point the res wire touched the metal housing. This does not work very well with the Ody V1 ceramic housing.

 

[imeothanasis]

yes, plastics are ready Long. But Ody doesnt have plastics inside ceramic, it has o-rings. But plastics are ok too, maybe even better

I made Ody v2 rebuildables but only to meet the preorders and a very few more

Imeo,

I think in another thread I had started about the odysseus you mentioned that some of the plastic pieces for under the nut inside the housing will be coming in with people preorders this month, is that right or did I misread?

I was also wondering if extras of the rebiuldable part ready v2 for the odysseus would also be coming in?

Thinking it would be nice to get the plastic piece needed for the v2 I have now, and maybe just get an extra one.

 

[Beco]

Twist 1 nr wire and 1 res wire together in the normal fasion but make sure your resistance piece is longer then normal. Start wrapping your resistance wire around the wick at the point where the 2 wires meet. Wrap as many turns as you want. Put the end with the nr wire in the end of the housing with the ceramic and attach that end as normal. Put the other end (the res wire end in the other side tuck the res wire under the wick. Since the other side of the housing is metal no nr wire is needed because electricity will travel the path of least resistance so it should complete the circuit at the point the res wire touched the metal housing. This does not work very well with the Ody V1 ceramic housing.

Will you get higher resistance that way?

 

[LongDraw]

Thanks Imeo, hopefully I will find some on the COV website, but if not I checked the wiki and it looks like i would need 1.78 by 1.78 O Ring for between the ceramic and nut inside the housing?

yes, plastics are ready Long. But Ody doesnt have plastics inside ceramic, it has o-rings. But plastics are ok too, maybe even better

I made Ody v2 rebuildables but only to meet the preorders and a very few more

 

[imeothanasis]

you will need one or two 3x1,78 Long

Thanks Imeo, hopefully I will find some on the COV website, but if not I checked the wiki and it looks like i would need 1.78 by 1.78 O Ring for between the ceramic and nut inside the housing?

 

[LongDraw]

Thank you again. Apparently I am not to good at o ring guides. I do see the oring guide on you stickied thread.

This is copy and pasted. I would need the bolded one correct. This would go between the ceramic and nut in the housing. I just get confused cause it says 3x2 and not 3x1.78.

Odysseus short mode (new rebuildable style)

15x1,5 (2) Odysseus base, between refilling cap and body
1,78x1,78 under center pin
9x2 between caps
3x2 under the center post's top nut

you will need one or two 3x1,78 Long

 

[imeothanasis]

3x2 is ok too Long. You can put one 3x2 or two 3x1,78. I said 3x1,78 because it goes easier inside ceramic when 3x2 goes tighter inside ceramic

 

[fright88]

Will you get higher resistance that way?

Shouldn't be no. Even though your resistance wire is longer the circuit should be completed at the spot it makes contact ith the ceramic housing. So it should be the same resistance as if you had nr wire in the metal channel.

 

[LongDraw]

3x2 is ok too Long. You can put one 3x2 or two 3x1,78. I said 3x1,78 because it goes easier inside ceramic when 3x2 goes tighter inside ceramic

Thanks again for your help and patience.


Was wondering if people could chime in on cleaning/changing juices. Haven't done it yet, but thinking 1.) Just rebuilt it 2.) Close juice control, take out juice, dry burn wick and coil, rinse if needed and load back up.

Right now thinking of just rebuilding as I enjoy it and it will give me more practice, but down the road just wondered what people have found is the easiest way to change juices without rebuilding, as well as how long do silica wick/coils typically last in the ody. I am using 3.5 silica, I cut two strands from each side in the channel, and a bout a 5/6 wrap of 30 gauge kanthal.

Thanks everyone. Odys are working great and love the portability and being able to lay them on their side.

 

[TheSneakerHoarder]

I just refill and go...auto changes the flavor--I vape similar flavors.

 

[LongDraw]

Well just wanted to say now that I have been using the odys for a few days they are great. It is awesome to have something that is travel friendly. The vape is nice and warm, another huge plus. I changed flavors just now and took about same time as with my genesis, and that is with a good rinse and dry burning the coil some, filled and ready to rock again.

I think it is interesting the difference/similarity between using silica or mesh. I am beginning to like both, was worried I wouldn't enjoy the flavor as much with the silica. Down the road may try mesh in the ody, but silica is a little more convenient. Right now vaping on Devil Dog from Ahlusion.

Thanks again everyone, and have a great night.