Official DNA 40 introduction

[SeniorBoy]

Sorry to hear about the Hana Horor show. Hope it gets resolved to your satisfaction.

So, it's Tuesday and time to play again. No risk, no reward. /lol
My first efforts in my Magma Clone:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...cial-dna-40-introduction-16.html#post14413547

Single coil 11 or 12 wraps using 30 gauge Ni200 with an ID of 3MM - .20 OHMS on my Meter. .22 OHMS on the device. Nice! I did this one a few times just playing around. My DNA40 device was set to 13 watts and 450F when I tore it down for experimentation. /lol

New build: Single coil: 28 guage Ni200 about 15 wraps with an ID of 3MM. Reads .20 on my meter and device. Yikes that's a lot of wire! Wraps were not touching and I probably could have made it a little pretty but who cares, this is the lab and it's fun. Fired the puppy up with the exact same setting that I used on the above 30 guage!

BINGO! Snap crackle and pop. Significantly longer draws/pulls before the TC kicks in. Just the way I likie! Yummy flavor just like in my KayFun - Kanthal- plus ProVari 2.5.

Anyone else experience this so I can insure I have both oars in the water?

 

[Tha Saint]

You are correct for the most part, but you just forgot 1 thing, voltage. Voltage can be thought of as pressure that is pushing the wattage up to its speed. So a higher wattage will require a higher voltage. Although the increased voltage use will be very small on every puff (assuming it is set at a high wattage), over the course of many many puffs it will add up to a slight, possibly even negligible, amount of extra battery used. So is it worth lowering the wattage to around where it will be anyway with temp control? Maybe, maybe not. Without actually testing to see if any noticeable difference in battery life occurs there is no way of knowing but I'm guessing it would be small if there at all. The flip side is a very slight, possibly negligible or at all, performance/ramp up time increase if kept at higher wattage. Basically, as you said, the same amount of energy will be used, but what can alter is the speed that it gets there and higher speeds require more Juice. I don't know how long the ramp up feature kicks in for or if it maintains high wattage until at desired temp before stopping and this has an affect as well. Also, I don't believe the board ramps up by jumping to max wattage automatically, instead I think it may do stages or a fast increase. Either way, if your set wattage is above the ramp up settings of the board you will definitely use more battery. All in all though, I'm sure it's ages better than no temp control.

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[want to quit]

How are you liking it so far uke? I love mine!!

Simple guy but kayfun at 0.15ohm 14w 450degrees Heaven!

I have my dna40 set at 500 degrees; its a single coil atomizer .15 ohms 30g Ni200 about 13 wraps 2mm ID contact coil.
From watching the LED the watts fluctuate but peak at about 17w.
I have it set at 22w.
I like this setting because it seems hot enough for good response, and never seems to over cook the juice (not sure though) since I get optimal flavor every vape, which is something I can't say about my other non TC devices when chain vaping.

Any comments about whether this is optimal (per the graph) or not?

 

[want to quit]

Someone having issues with Hana again? I am done with them. I heard so many stories on the dna 30 with uneven 510, thing breaking down, mini bat died, no customer service, long repair times. I like the look, I like the button but they need to change their ways IMO.

 

[want to quit]

btw quick question. I thought the min resistance has to be 0.15 I just noticed my coil reads 0.13. Vape great so I wont complain just checking as I wasn't sure if it was 0.10 or 0.15.

 

[Bassnorma]

btw quick question. I thought the min resistance has to be 0.15 I just noticed my coil reads 0.13. Vape great so I wont complain just checking as I wasn't sure if it was 0.10 or 0.15.

Soft limiting...it will vape but no matter what the atty ohms say you are vaping 0.16

 

[350ZMO]

I'd wait for the Aqua v2 coming out really soon

I'll wait for your review In the meantime I have a cheap clone on the way.

 

[TheKiwi]

Guess who's ready for his dna40 mod. MEMEMMEE

ETA: damn. Those wires are SOFT as hell. Interesting.


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[Bassnorma]

Guess who's ready for his dna40 mod. MEMEMMEE

Burping out loud using Tapatalk

What did you end up ordering Kiwi?

 

[TheKiwi]

What did you end up ordering Kiwi?

I'm assuming you meant the mod? My rdna40 should be in next week, since I put my order in waaaay before it even came online on VS website.

Still trying to snag a vapor flask.


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[want to quit]

so now I can be that cool guy that can say I am a sub ohmer!!! wooot lol

Soft limiting...it will vape but no matter what the atty ohms say you are vaping 0.16

 

[jkusmc]

Lol, never thought I'd sub-ohm either! .017 @ 15 watts/450 degrees. Yummmmmm

 

[MordorMongo]

Had over 24 hours now, still loving it.

Haven't built kayfun yet as I am waiting on 30 gauge (here thursday) for that.

Current set up on bap DNA40 is plumeveil 1.2, single coil 28 gauge 11 wraps, reads 0.11 on device (was 0.13 on meter). TC set at 420, 24.4 watts. I find that to be the sweet spot for me. Nice, dense, flavorful vape. With this set up I don't hit temp protected screen until it is time to drip, so it's basically a reminder....love that.

Mom's Pineapple Cake has never tasted so good.

Will state that the two other juices I've vaped on this same set up (Captain Comet and Sunrise) required different temp settings for same results in terms on not hitting cut off early/diminished vapor production due to needing drip (440 and 430, respectively).

It's certainly fun to play with....can't wait for 30 gauge and kayfun play time!

 

[350ZMO]

There is one other factor that I have no idea how they deal with and that is the internal resistance of different attys i.e. I have three ZAPs (Z-atty Pro) and they use a spring loaded positive connector. One reads (on my Fluke Multimeter) 0.1 the second is about 0.2 and one I need to take apart and clean that reads 0.35 to 0.4 ohms. That is a substantial portion of the entire Ni200 coil resistance. "Just one of those things that make ya go Hmmm..."

Today I took the fogger off the XPV to clean and fill it and when I put it back on I was getting harsh hits, took the fogger off and saw the center pin had screwed in about a turn, screwed it back out and put it back on and hit plus for new coil and all was well. Just a teensy little extra resistance from that caused the harshness. It assumed the same resistance was there as I didn't get a new coil message but it wasn't because of the fogger center pin had screwed in a little.

Found an easy way to make the 40 give you a message for new coil, unscrew atty until the display says 0.00 ohms then hit the fire button it will say check atomizer, then screw atty back in and press fire button, you will get the new coil message.

 

[350ZMO]

Sorry to hear about the Hana Horor show. Hope it gets resolved to your satisfaction.

So, it's Tuesday and time to play again. No risk, no reward. /lol
My first efforts in my Magma Clone:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...cial-dna-40-introduction-16.html#post14413547

Single coil 11 or 12 wraps using 30 gauge Ni200 with an ID of 3MM - .20 OHMS on my Meter. .22 OHMS on the device. Nice! I did this one a few times just playing around. My DNA40 device was set to 13 watts and 450F when I tore it down for experimentation. /lol

New build: Single coil: 28 guage Ni200 about 15 wraps with an ID of 3MM. Reads .20 on my meter and device. Yikes that's a lot of wire! Wraps were not touching and I probably could have made it a little pretty but who cares, this is the lab and it's fun. Fired the puppy up with the exact same setting that I used on the above 30 guage!

BINGO! Snap crackle and pop. Significantly longer draws/pulls before the TC kicks in. Just the way I likie! Yummy flavor just like in my KayFun - Kanthal- plus ProVari 2.5.

Anyone else experience this so I can insure I have both oars in the water?

I put 12 wraps of 30 gauge wound on a 3x.5mm screw in the Kaiser today and got .27ohms. No rice crispies but my temp is set at 410f.

 

[brickfollett]

7 days till my rdna 40 ships.... The vapor flask sure is sick though, just can't justify having 2 dna40 mods, especially since I had my heart set on the p3 for so long. P3 definitely took a back seat to the vaporshark though, I've never owned one and the reviews of the 30s are all outstanding

 

[350ZMO]

Lol, never thought I'd sub-ohm either! .017 @ 15 watts/450 degrees. Yummmmmm

Not just subohming but centi-subohming!

 

[jkusmc]

Haha you're right about that. Barely any resistance at all! I'm in a whole new world. I LOVE my Kayfuns, and have always had the same build, which has worked perfectly for me. Now, I'm way below my normal build with a coil ID that is a MM bigger than normal. What's crazy is it worked perfectly the first time, and didn't require any tweaking or headache.

Not just subohming but centi-subohming!

 

[rurwin]

Thanks for the info, playing with big toys sounds really cool

I would imagine them running at far higher speeds? I guess they do use rather tiny and cheap microcontrollers but shouldn't they still be in the megaherz range? For example arduino controllers are quite fast for the 8bit stuff they do.

BTW that graph is purely for illustration of the general problem, right? It doesn't have any relevance for building on a DNA40, or does it?

I apologise to Evolv. I've just rechecked the video (it took a while; that thing is an hour long) and they are measuring resistance "hundreds of times per second."

That's much more likely to provide good control. My gut feeling is that 100Hz probably would be good enough and 1kHz would be over-kill. So they are where I would expect them to be. Microcontrollers are up around a 10MHz for a single instruction but by the time you've coded the algorithm it would be dozens of instructions. 1kHz would be doable if you needed to, 10kHz would be a challenge. But you only need to run the loop at a rate comparable to the speed the temperature changes. Anything extra is a waste and can be counter-productive.

The graph is purely general illustration, yes. The numbers are meaningless. It's just the right picture from the Wikipedia page on control-loops; nothing to do with the DNA40.

The temperature is measured from the resistance, and the coil less than doubles its resistance over the temperature range of the device. So to get 10 degree accuracy means they have to measure resistance to better than 2% of it's value, which is something like 0.1% of full scale. Most resistance measurement boxes claim 2% of full scale.

 

[HolmanGT]

I apologise to Evolv. I've just rechecked the video (it took a while; that thing is an hour long) and they are measuring resistance "hundreds of times per second."

That's much more likely to provide good control. My gut feeling is that 100Hz probably would be good enough and 1kHz would be over-kill. So they are where I would expect them to be. Microcontrollers are up around a 10MHz for a single instruction but by the time you've coded the algorithm it would be dozens of instructions. 1kHz would be doable if you needed to, 10kHz would be a challenge. But you only need to run the loop at a rate comparable to the speed the temperature changes. Anything extra is a waste and can be counter-productive.

The graph is purely general illustration, yes. The numbers are meaningless. It's just the right picture from the Wikipedia page on control-loops; nothing to do with the DNA40.

The temperature is measured from the resistance, and the coil less than doubles its resistance over the temperature range of the device. So to get 10 degree accuracy means they have to measure resistance to better than 2% of it's value, which is something like 0.1% of full scale. Most resistance measurement boxes claim 2% of full scale.

That is the part of what the DNA-40 does that just amazes me. That kind of accuracy is hard to reproduce in a lab using a resistance bridge specifically designed for low ohm laboratory use.