-
Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
View thread
- Status
How do you know Brick? Did they send you an email? They charged my card but I have yet to see any ETAs.
Nevermind...I forgot they all ship on the 28th.
Last edited:
I've been holding out for some updates. Good to see that they finally added a reverse polarity protection.
Very interesting and thanks! I can confirm your thoughts on what you call the ramp up time because I think your referring to what Evolv calls "Boost" Meaning in my own limited knowledge of electronics, when you fire, the board delivers more watts than your setting to quickly heat the coil (think faster) and for myself and many others this makes the beginning of the draw/puff more full flavored. Nothing very earth shaking but since it's automatic that's nice. The old way has been around a long time, primer puffs or fire and wait a second or two before you draw. On my settings as indicated it definitely takes longer to complete the Boost compared to the previous build. I can't quantify it but it was the first thing I noticed. In my case the Boost was about 25 or 30 watts when set to 13 watts and then it quickly ramps down and begins to climb.
Their is a feature that I have not tested but it's right up your alley
I call it "Get Me Home" and that means the board will still fire and deliver a vape all the way down to I think Brandon said 2.6 or 2.7 Volts. Obviously the vape will suffer and I assume the battery life will also suffer if you do it enough but at least you get home and can still vape, then you can either swap bats or charge. Compare this to a ProVari 2.5 which just stops firing when you hit around 3.4 +/- volts.
Ok finally got my FT cana clone case DNA40 box mod working Yipiii! My first mod with up and down buttons lol. Only had the VTR, Seven 22 and the eVic supreme. I have to say I love up and down buttons!
So first I wanted to experiment and I've had something really confusing happening. I made a tension wrapped contact coil with 15 wraps or so, AWG 30, NI200, 3.2mm ID. Coiled pretty tight. I put it on my magma as a test subject and disabled the temp control. First it showed 0.29 Ohm. It did seem to glow unevenly. After fiddling with it showed 0.34. Then I fired it till it glowed again. After that I fiddled with it some more, spacing the contact coil into a non contact coil. I glowed it some more. Now it showed 0.57 ohm. What?! That would require something like 40 wraps... I'm not sure if there was a nick in the wire, bad contacts or if the resistance was reduced because of the glowing. When inspecting the wire with strong magnification after the glowing it showed that the wire was still silvery but with a slight white tint. Probably some ash or oxidation. This coil made no sense. This coil was done. I believe I mangled it. Maybe the tight coiling actually stretched the wire into a lower resistance, at least at a few parts of the wire did get damaged. Really not sure. What was interesting that the wire glows already at 600F with the temp limit. Or maybe the coil's temperature coefficient was altered somehow or it doesn't really work well without a wick. I did let the coil cool down a few times and reattached the atomizer, but the resistance stayed at the unexpected 0.57 ohm. Well end of confusing story.
My next coil was 10.5 wraps single coil spaced AWG30 ID 3.2mm. I wanted to vape on it so I didn't fiddle with it so much lol. Installed it on my magma and put in some KGD cotton.
With temp set to 210, 250, 300 etc the vapor production was first almost non existent, then abmysal then minimal. Only with 400 you get good vapor production. What struck me immediately that you get far less "popping" but that might also be because it's a spaced coil or larger diameter, normally I make smaller microcoils. But I do think the temp control leads to a more silent vape. Now I'm vaping at 40 watts and let the temp protection limit the vape, which works fine. During the draw the power gets quickly limited to 7 to 10 watts. I use the 2mm airflow hole. Vapor is good but flavor isn't as intense as I'm used to. This might be my coil, or that it's single coil? My previous single coil which was great and on par with my usual horizontal dual coil was a vertical coil made of kanthal in a nest of cotton. My NI200 horizontal coil is rather large (about 1cm) and maybe there are airflow issues. I don't have much experience with rebuilding still but the flavor was definitely less intense than I'm used to, but I like the cooler vape.
At 450°F I get far more vapor production and totally (not) suprisingly a warmer vape. The power get limited to 15-17 watts. This is close to what I am vaping usually on my magma, 18 to 20 watts, and the flavor was definitely better, but still a bit less than the dual coil magma on my evic at 20 watt.
Now I'm vaping at 410°F but I think my tastebuds are a bit exhausted now so I can't really tell anymore how good the flavor is lol. I also got quite a bit of cotton taste that I usually get the first 2 draws with the KGD when changing the wick. With this coil it was stronger and persisted longer probably due to the much bigger wick. This might have tainted the whole experiment a bit but I didn't taste any nickel at all.
I love my new DNA40 box mod but so far the flavor was underwhelming, but this is probably due to the coil I've build. I need to make a more compact coil. Maybe vertical coil. Maybe a contact or near contact coil instead of so spaced out.
So first I wanted to experiment and I've had something really confusing happening. I made a tension wrapped contact coil with 15 wraps or so, AWG 30, NI200, 3.2mm ID. Coiled pretty tight. I put it on my magma as a test subject and disabled the temp control. First it showed 0.29 Ohm. It did seem to glow unevenly. After fiddling with it showed 0.34. Then I fired it till it glowed again. After that I fiddled with it some more, spacing the contact coil into a non contact coil. I glowed it some more. Now it showed 0.57 ohm. What?! That would require something like 40 wraps... I'm not sure if there was a nick in the wire, bad contacts or if the resistance was reduced because of the glowing. When inspecting the wire with strong magnification after the glowing it showed that the wire was still silvery but with a slight white tint. Probably some ash or oxidation. This coil made no sense. This coil was done. I believe I mangled it. Maybe the tight coiling actually stretched the wire into a lower resistance, at least at a few parts of the wire did get damaged. Really not sure. What was interesting that the wire glows already at 600F with the temp limit. Or maybe the coil's temperature coefficient was altered somehow or it doesn't really work well without a wick. I did let the coil cool down a few times and reattached the atomizer, but the resistance stayed at the unexpected 0.57 ohm. Well end of confusing story.
My next coil was 10.5 wraps single coil spaced AWG30 ID 3.2mm. I wanted to vape on it so I didn't fiddle with it so much lol. Installed it on my magma and put in some KGD cotton.
With temp set to 210, 250, 300 etc the vapor production was first almost non existent, then abmysal then minimal. Only with 400 you get good vapor production. What struck me immediately that you get far less "popping" but that might also be because it's a spaced coil or larger diameter, normally I make smaller microcoils. But I do think the temp control leads to a more silent vape. Now I'm vaping at 40 watts and let the temp protection limit the vape, which works fine. During the draw the power gets quickly limited to 7 to 10 watts. I use the 2mm airflow hole. Vapor is good but flavor isn't as intense as I'm used to. This might be my coil, or that it's single coil? My previous single coil which was great and on par with my usual horizontal dual coil was a vertical coil made of kanthal in a nest of cotton. My NI200 horizontal coil is rather large (about 1cm) and maybe there are airflow issues. I don't have much experience with rebuilding still but the flavor was definitely less intense than I'm used to, but I like the cooler vape.
At 450°F I get far more vapor production and totally (not) suprisingly a warmer vape. The power get limited to 15-17 watts. This is close to what I am vaping usually on my magma, 18 to 20 watts, and the flavor was definitely better, but still a bit less than the dual coil magma on my evic at 20 watt.
Now I'm vaping at 410°F but I think my tastebuds are a bit exhausted now so I can't really tell anymore how good the flavor is lol. I also got quite a bit of cotton taste that I usually get the first 2 draws with the KGD when changing the wick. With this coil it was stronger and persisted longer probably due to the much bigger wick. This might have tainted the whole experiment a bit but I didn't taste any nickel at all.
I love my new DNA40 box mod but so far the flavor was underwhelming, but this is probably due to the coil I've build. I need to make a more compact coil. Maybe vertical coil. Maybe a contact or near contact coil instead of so spaced out.
I'm the biggest vape newb after 4 years into this but I don't think you are suppose to bring the nickel to glow. Just wrap it and be done with it as far as I understood.
Again don't listen to me but the none existing "popping" is because your juice is no longer broiling like it was with a regular mech or dna 30. Since it's Heat regulated it will not broil your stuff so no popping.
Kiwi or someone else I have a question. How come if I take off my kayfun or rda and put it back on that it taste like crap? I lowered the w and temp and it was back to normal and I crawled back up to my desired temp/ watts.
Don't understand how that can be as nothing changed other than me taking off the arty and putting it back on.
Don't understand how that can be as nothing changed other than me taking off the arty and putting it back on.
Yeah but I miss the popping! I think I'm just used to it because it tells me the atty is actually firing. I associate the popping with flavor With the eVicS there is a 0.5 second delay and also if you hit the button wrong it won't fire.
And you definitely aren't supposed to get the nickel to glow, I just wanted to experiment. If that showed anything, strange things can happen with the nickel lol. Also the nickel IS soft. You don#t need to coil it that tight. The wire doesn't even unravel like kanthal does if you don't secure the wire on the spool!
And I think my build is really bad. If you limit to 400 to 450°F your measure of performance of your build now is basically at what watts the chip caps out when it hits the temperature. I only get 7-10 watts at 420°F so my build must be crappy. Maybe not enough liquid can get to the coil or the coil is too long and air only flows across a part of it and the rest gets too hot. Maybe I just use a lower airflow setting than the others in this thread. Or maybe it's because the 30AWG has a lower surface area than the 28AWG.
But that is basically your performance metric now, how much power can you sustain after hitting the 400°F temp?
What is curious is that the temp where we get a good warm vape is very close to the flash point of cotton. I want to vape at 420°F but that is already above the flash point. I think glow temp means flash point below. Maybe time I try rayon.
Glow temperature: 205 °C (401 °F)
Fire point: 210 °C (410 °F)
Autoignition temperature: 407 °C (765 °F)
With the eVicS there is a 0.5 second delay and also if you hit the button wrong it won't fire.And you definitely aren't supposed to get the nickel to glow, I just wanted to experiment. If that showed anything, strange things can happen with the nickel lol. Also the nickel IS soft. You don#t need to coil it that tight. The wire doesn't even unravel like kanthal does if you don't secure the wire on the spool!
And I think my build is really bad. If you limit to 400 to 450°F your measure of performance of your build now is basically at what watts the chip caps out when it hits the temperature. I only get 7-10 watts at 420°F so my build must be crappy. Maybe not enough liquid can get to the coil or the coil is too long and air only flows across a part of it and the rest gets too hot. Maybe I just use a lower airflow setting than the others in this thread. Or maybe it's because the 30AWG has a lower surface area than the 28AWG.
But that is basically your performance metric now, how much power can you sustain after hitting the 400°F temp?
What is curious is that the temp where we get a good warm vape is very close to the flash point of cotton. I want to vape at 420°F but that is already above the flash point. I think glow temp means flash point below. Maybe time I try rayon.
Glow temperature: 205 °C (401 °F)
Fire point: 210 °C (410 °F)
Autoignition temperature: 407 °C (765 °F)
Haha I actually have no idea! I'm still waiting for my rDNA to arrive. I can't think of any explanation as why that might be the case.
What do you mean by taste like crap?
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Oh!! Everytime I see your name and the kiwi I see you solving problems lol.
I had a regular kayfun on, took it off, put it back on and it had this extremely bad burned taste. Lowered the watta and temp and all was well again. Slowly raised the watts and temp and all was normal.
Very confusing to me.
I had a regular kayfun on, took it off, put it back on and it had this extremely bad burned taste. Lowered the watta and temp and all was well again. Slowly raised the watts and temp and all was normal.
Very confusing to me.
No temp control on Kanthal...if the watts are too high on your Kanthal build it will taste burnt...Was the Kayfun built with Kanthal?
Or a ZNA or ZNA Lite, sheesh, adjustable pin is std.!
Not to mention on a ZNA (which will have the DNA 40 chip sets soon) you can replace the 510 connector for about $30.00!
(This is why Electronic Stix is out of them right now, waiting on HOH to release them with the DNA 40 chips).
As a matter of fact all HOH mods have the replaceable 510 caps...
Even the Pocket Flasks have a spring loaded pin (IMHO the weakest part of their design)......dunno if it's replaceable by itself...
Not familiar with the XPY, but an adjustable spring loaded pin would be okies too!
Man for that much money I would be politely, really P_ssed off!
(for a Hana DNA 40 mod) ...looks very nice though....
Last edited:
Well the temperature sensing relies on the fact that when you put on the atomizer that it is at room temperature. If it isn't, it's temp and resistance will be too high and when firing it will think "oh this isn't hot enough, lets make it hotter!". No clue if that is what happened with you, also because it asks you if you have a new / old coil (it remembers the resistance at room temp). According to the data sheet if your atty cools down while on the DNA it will also auto correct the reference resistance.
From my weird experiments I'm not entirely convinced that all of this works perfectly.
You might have to let your atty cool, take it off and on again and select "new coil".
If your kayfun was build with kanthal, please disregard
What is kanthal? I just know nickel from today on lol. Was regular nickel that's the weird part. Just took off the kayfun adjusted the airflow and it went back on and boom burned. Put it down to 400 and 12w and adjusted it back up to 450 and 14.5w and all was well. Extremely odd
Interesting! That could be it. Gosh I love when a stupid machine is smarter than I am. Damn you vaporflask, damn you! Thanks guys. Super stoked about this chip. The vape is fantastic and i am sure after a few days I got it all down.
Well the temperature sensing relies on the fact that when you put on the atomizer that it is at room temperature. If it isn't, it's temp and resistance will be too high and when firing it will think "oh this isn't hot enough, lets make it hotter!". No clue if that is what happened with you, also because it asks you if you have a new / old coil (it remembers the resistance at room temp). According to the data sheet if your atty cools down while on the DNA it will also auto correct the reference resistance.
From my weird experiments I'm not entirely convinced that all of this works perfectly.
You might have to let your atty cool, take it off and on again and select "new coil".
If your kayfun was build with kanthal, please disregard
Kanthal is a type of resistance wire many use to build their heating coils....
- Status
