Official ProVari 3 Thread - P3 *PART 2*
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Some people have more nimble hands and fingers.
I'd consider trying a 2.5 cap with the P3 in mini mode. Since we all use nipple top batteries, maybe there is no need for that bigger and tougher spring when using in mini size? I believe some of the New Classic owners are doing this.
I mostly use 18490, with an 18650 on my P3 Ti. I remove at a connection, not at the end cap.
I'd consider trying a 2.5 cap with the P3 in mini mode. Since we all use nipple top batteries, maybe there is no need for that bigger and tougher spring when using in mini size? I believe some of the New Classic owners are doing this.
I mostly use 18490, with an 18650 on my P3 Ti. I remove at a connection, not at the end cap.
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Well said Ms loud. Some here forget that we came to provape because the mod itself was/is better, power wise than most other regulated mods. It's true that on a mech watts are watts, but on a regulated it's the frequency and stability of that frequency that makes the difference in the quality of the vape not the watts or volts.
Now days the frequency of the power output is not nearly as big of a gap as it was when provape came out. Provape still uses the highest frequency of all the mods out and has the most stable power output available as well as leads the pack in CS and over all quality.
Now after saying all that there is actually a difference in the vape between the 2/2.5 and the P3/Classic/radius in watt mode. The arm chip has the ability to check resistance hundreds of times per second which is many times more than the 2.5 chip. I don't remember what the number I was told is but iirc the 2.5 only checks it at the start of a hit where the arm based board monitors it throughout. That's why the arm based boards can error out during a hit.
Lex is right guys but she hasn't bothered to figure out why there is a difference and she might not care to. I know from some of the stuff I do, the more precise one part is the more a weakness in another part is exposed.
Since provapes power is super stable and constantly adjusting to the coil resistance, the room for error in wicking becomes smaller or issues with wicking materials becomes more apparent. That just a few strands too much or too little becomes more noticeable in a dryer vape or more crackling but not necessarily a bad vape. Just that "not quite right" sensation which will be different for everyone.
@Lex. If you feel up to some tinkering, try adjusting your wicking amount just a slight bit less and compare again. I think you'll find your vape will improve across all your devices.
Oh and yes I'm a guy telling a woman she is right. [emoji39]. Don't get used to it though it doesn't happen often. Just ask my wife[emoji23]
Careful, I got my head chopped off for offering help.
I have been using the 2.5 extender caps with my Classic and P3 in 18490 mode, I still get great or good on the IQ check, but at 6-8 watts, that is all that is required really, so I don't sweat it.
It's probably heresy for me to say this, and I'll be drawn and quartered as a result, but in 18350 mode the 2.5/Mini end-cap works just fine. I did some tests and there was a one point difference in battery IQ between the P3 end-cap and the 2.5/Mini end-cap. I tried this with new, clean end-caps with the springs pulled out and not compressed. I would probably use the 2.5/Mini end-caps on all of my P3s, which are running in 18350 mode, were it not for the fact that I have several Ti's and Stealths for which I have not see 2.5/Mini end-caps for sale.
And based on what Enaud said, I think I should add I'm vaping at nine watts on my P3s.
Is it a tight fit? I really have to use some pressure to get the end cap to thread.
I have dented battery ends before using a mech mod.
A bit, yes. But no big deal. If it is hard to screw/unscrew the cap, just push in while screwing/unscrewing. It will take the spring pressure off the threads and make it easier to thread/unthread. You probably got dented ends on a mech mod because they are fixed contact pins and you can piledrive them right into the end of the battery. Springs wont do that typically.
Good to see this, Juma. I'd seen it suggested, but never actually tested, or tested it myself.
Just for info -- the steel end caps look quite fine with the Ti's. In fact, the 2.5/Mini Ti's came with the new tiny "made in usa" steel beauty ring (P3 top cap design) and end cap with the same Ti and dot detail. Only the P3 has all Ti.
As far as I know, there has never been spare bottom caps sold in anything but steel -- with variation in detail.
Thanks for this. I wasn't sure mixing end caps between my P3's, Classics and 2.5's was a good idea.
Just a reminder -- Do not use the P3 (large spring) end cap on a 2.5.
P3 end cap should be used on P3 when using the larger 18650 batteries, especially when they are flat top.
P3 end cap should be used on P3 when using the larger 18650 batteries, especially when they are flat top.
I do it because I like to use 18490's with the old style extender caps, I like the nicely rounded edges on those. Feels better in hand to me.
I just put my p3 in mini mode... maybe the spring needed to be worn in a little bit. it was MUCH easier this time.
definitely a lot of resistance... but not problematic.
the 18350 size with a kabuki looks beautiful.
definitely a lot of resistance... but not problematic.
the 18350 size with a kabuki looks beautiful.
looking at my family here.. my provari line up.. i need better drip tips lol 
I like the smaller profile. Yeah, gotta change the batt more often but it's a small price to pay for the reduced size IMO.
P3 in mini mode with Kayfun Mini V3.
Too wide for me. That's actually a two-tone titanium drip tip I have on there now.
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