Official ProVari Procyon Page

[The Ocelot]

Me, I just read a *lot*, well more than a lot actually - more like most of my day is spent reading. And it is amazing how much one can actually learn by reading if you let it stick.

I got my G.E.D. at age 16 (not bragging here, just a fact in my life) because I screwed up badly in High School and had no credits at the end of my second year, and I came in at the 92% percentile (forget exactly what that actually means), and do not have any official schooling after that. But because I am a strong reader, I am not as dumb as I could/should be given the level of actual schooling I have had - it really only shows in math type stuff.

But I too am smart enough to be a Provari owner As well as understand watts and volts.

I'm an Autodidact, as are you my friend. Embrace the word!

Pssst @AstroTurf somewhere in the distance I hear a bird still whining about not meeting the criteria to own a ProVari.

 

[ENAUD]

Explanation for us not-so-smart people: when the metal lid of a jar is stuck, hold it under hot water. The metal will slightly expand and the jar will twist open. Do that enough times and the lid might actually become a tiny bit larger (on an atomic level), but you won't care because the jar is empty.

The glass part of the will expand under heat too, but metal is more pliable, so the atoms are further apart to begin with. That's why it takes more heat to melt glass than it does to melt metal. I just made that up.

Actually, the lid heats up and expands faster than the glass because metal is a better conductor of heat. Also there will be a difference in the heat expansion properties between glass and the steel lid.

 

[Ca Ike]

I never paid it a lot of attention ScandaLeX. Either my favorite mods don't have read outs ... Eleaf Basic, (Nautilus Mini) on an Innokin T18 battery ... or most of my experience with Nautilus coils on box mods includes a Pegasus and Eleaf 60W.

The thing is that my box mods always showed the Nautilus coils starting out about 2.0 ohms and settling down to about 1.9 ohms. That's why I was surprised when the Procyon initially read the resistance @ 1.8.

I've also seen what may be two versions of the current 1.8 BVC Aspire Nautilus coils ... one stamped 1.8 (4.2-5.0V) and one stamped 1.8 (3.3-6.0V) ... still working on trying to find the real difference between the two.

Whatever the resistance ... I respect and appreciate how the Procyon firmware handles it

This is what causes all the problems with China mods and why the vape is different on provaris. The more accurate the resistance measurement the better the power management. This can also translate to better batt life.

China mod makers won't tell you what the margin of error is and from my own testing, that can be anywhere from .5-1ohm.

Provape has it down to thousandths of an ohm margin or better since every test I've done shows it to be deadly accurate as displayed to the hundredth of an ohm

 

[The Ocelot]

Actually, the lid heats up and expands faster than the glass because metal is a better conductor of heat. Also there will be a difference in the heat expansion properties between glass and the steel lid.

Yeah, that too.

 

[The Ocelot]

 

[AstroTurf]

L U V this Vid!!!

 

[BreSha6869]

L U V this Vid!!!

One of my favorites. Should be a staple of any new hire training. "We do similar stuff to what this guy is talking about, but much more technical. Oh, there is a test at the end that you must score 80% or higher on or you are fired. Welcome aboard!"

 

[The Ocelot]

L U V this Vid!!!

Me too! He explains it in a way I can understand.

 

[Drewps5co0tt]

Procyon personal preference question ... OLED button color ??

I'll leave the default green I guess. Wouldn't matter to me if there was no light. Stealth as it were. My cognitive senses inform me when the button is depressed. I don't often look at the light, so green it is. MAYBE just flashing red when low battery (as they say it does), to help get my attention (a buzzer would be better, like on the washer/dryer LOL), but I seem to often check the display for battery level regardless. Not even sure why I check it. I seem to charge a battery or swap a battery almost daily anyway ... even when tons of power is still available. I've read that lithium ion doesn't like to get run down in the grand scheme of things. Who knows.

What color is your button? Is there any rhyme or reason? ... anecdotes ... recommendations?

EDIT: Found how to turn button color off from the menu WOooHOoo ... nevermind LOL

BLUE BLUE BLUE

 

[Peter_C]

Honestly, I 'got' like five words out of the entire video...now whether or not I understood them in context may be another matter...

 

[rbrylawski]

That is and always has been one of the bestest videos posted on this or any forum. The first time it was posted [by you?] I think I watched it like 5 times in a row!

 

[Hobbs]

Provape has it down to thousandths of an ohm margin or better since every test I've done shows it to be deadly accurate as displayed to the hundredth of an ohm

The Procyon display only shows tenths of an ohm ... at least that's all I've seen in two days of ownership. My Aspire and Eleaf mods display two decimal places (hundredths of an ohm) ... but I've never seen a mod display thousandths of an ohm. Must be referring to internal readings for firmware use or something MAYBE (?) ... Regardless, it all goes to make a consistent, reliable, predictable and safe device. And that's all I could ask.

11.8W on the 1.8 coil today ... still vapin'

 

[Hobbs]

Yep, two days and two tanks now on this new device. The supplied Samsung 18650 25R ... JUST ... ticked off full charge and that's with tons of display menu manipulation as well. I'm impressed. Yes, I am. Maybe there is something to that dang new fangled end cap LOL ... and vaping at lower watts. And I DO like the dang new fangled end cap MUCH better than a springy end cap. Yes, I do.

Oh, and I've often seen (maybe not in this thread) people comment that the stainless threads feel like "butter". I wouldn't go so far as to say that, but I was a machinist in one lifetime before a military career and retirement and while I don't think the threads on the Procyon are like "butter" ... the fit and finish is better than most. Within standard.

 

[The Ocelot]

Oh, and I've often seen (maybe not in this thread) people comment that the stainless threads feel like "butter". I wouldn't go so far as to say that, but I was a machinist in one lifetime before a military career and retirement and while I don't think the threads on the Procyon are like "butter" ... the fit and finish is better than most. Within standard.

Something may have changed in their machining. My older ProVarii (2 years and earlier) have a much smoother feel to the threads. You might try some No-Ox.

 

[Hobbs]

Not a hit on the Procyon ... but the setscrew for air control on the Kabuki tank turns entirely too freely. I thought I was using the wrong allen wrench (supplied with Kabuki and the only one since mine is P3 threaded). I had to put my readers on and take a look LOL.

Wish the Kabuki air control setscrew (on this tank) had more resistance/closer tolerance ... especially since it's used as a leverage point as needed, to remove the tank end cap. Too easy to lose all the minute tweaking for absolute precise personal air setting. I may put a very thin dab of locktite on the setscrew or something. But I'm just being nitpicky in the grand scheme of things, perhaps.

 

[The Ocelot]

Not a hit on the Procyon ... but the setscrew for air control on the Kabuki tank turns entirely too freely. I thought I was using the wrong allen wrench (supplied with Kabuki and the only one since mine is P3 threaded). I had to put my readers on and take a look LOL.

Wish the Kabuki air control setscrew (on this tank) had more resistance/closer tolerance ... especially since it's used as a leverage point as needed, to remove the tank end cap. Too easy to lose all the minute tweaking for absolute precise personal air setting. I may put a very thin dab of locktite on the setscrew or something. But I'm just being nitpicky in the grand scheme of things, perhaps.

I vape my Kabuki open. Luckily I like it, since I lost the screw. I could get a replacement, but I'm too lazy.

I use (or used) the airflow hole for leverage.

 

[Hobbs]

Something may have changed in their machining. My older ProVarii (2 years and earlier) have a much smoother feel to the threads. You might try some No-Ox.

I have every faith that No-Ox is good stuff and I looked hard at it when ordering from Provape. I would have gotten it for sure if I didn't already have what I FEEL is a suitable alternative. I use TW25B Mil-Comm Lubricant Protectant on ALL my firearms. I THINK it's good enough for these threads LOL ... but will prolly get some No-Ox to give a try when I order my Radius in the next couple of weeks

EDIT: oh, and i have a nice set of thread chasers in my tap and die set keep over from back in the day as a machinist but that won't be necessary. Like I said, everything is within standard on the Procyon. NICE ... just vape it ... you'll like it

 

[Hobbs]

The ONLY thing that might be prohibitive as an heirloom item on the Procyon is the fire button. ESPECIALLY if often inserted and removed from the available Provape Procyon leather holster. I cringe trying to get past that button in the leather. It is what it is though. I don't know what I would change it to. A switch is a switch (with a button on it) at the end of the day. BUT it is the weakest link and whether or not from abnormal use ... inserting and removing from a damn TIGHT leather holster or normal use ... the button and switch will be the first to fail in the LONG run I'm pretty sure.

Other than that, and with proper care, this thing will last for generations.

I prolly won't use the leather holster much at all. Aside from it being EXTREMELY tight ... we're talking man force here ... the button and display cut-outs are "off". When the button is centered in its cut-out, the display is at the bottom of its cut-out. It's not even close to precise AT.ALL. 'Bout all that can be said about this otherwise nice holster is that hey, you can punch the button and you can read the read-out ... so what?. Don't know if the maker got in a hurry, the template/punch press used was worn or what ... but measurements are well off on the cut-outs of the leather holster.

Now, the "cheap" neoprene holster ... I'm using and greatly enjoying right now LOL ... and wishing there was an all black one available. ... maybe I can wash and dye this red one black somehow, when it gets TOO dirty from handling ... dunno

 

[Hobbs]

... but the best part ?? ... i don't even have to put my dentures in to feel fancy when I vape this thing

Lovin' it ... best vape decision (almost maybe) ever, amen !!! ... still clinging to my Nautilus Mini on a T18 though

I WILL support American made ... just keep makin' 'em good ... or even "gooder"

 

[Ca Ike]

The Procyon display only shows tenths of an ohm ... at least that's all I've seen in two days of ownership. My Aspire and Eleaf mods display two decimal places (hundredths of an ohm) ... but I've never seen a mod display thousandths of an ohm. Must be referring to internal readings for firmware use or something MAYBE (?) ... Regardless, it all goes to make a consistent, reliable, predictable and safe device. And that's all I could ask.

11.8W on the 1.8 coil today ... still vapin'

On the quick glance display it's tenths but in the menu it's hundredths