Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!

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jazzvaper

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@jazzvaper, I'm not sure what you mean when you say your tempered wire is brittle, cuz that don't sound good. Do you really mean brittle or is it just more springy and firm?

I mean brittle as in the wire snaps, or may snap if I am not careful, when tightening down the deck screws.

Fuggettabout twist and tug, one wire snaps the other I can twist and tug. It may also be that the underside of the Rs screw heads are sharp.

Knowing that I take extra care on the SqRs.
 
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fogmust

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Now that looks sharp!

Thank you! I just wish these 18350's lasted longer... All I can get is a few hours out of my Imrens. Can anybody recommend a longer lasting brand? How long do yours normally last? This question is for anybody to answer... On top of everything else, when I'm charging mine, the light turns green, but it's only at 78% according to the P3. I leave it on the charger longer and it goes to 99%, but it still doesn't last much.
 

dems86

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Thank you! I just wish these 18350's lasted longer... All I can get is a few hours out of my Imrens. Can anybody recommend a longer lasting brand? How long do yours normally last? This question is for anybody to answer... On top of everything else, when I'm charging mine, the light turns green, but it's only at 78% according to the P3. I leave it on the charger longer and it goes to 99%, but it still doesn't last much.
I have the newer AW IMR 18350s and 18490s, they both do a pretty damn good job for me.

My 350s will get me through an entire tank on my Taifun, or more than a tank on my SqR with nano/bell cap.

I believe they are like 800mah/12A and 1200mah/15A
 

SeniorBoy

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Thank you! I just wish these 18350's lasted longer... All I can get is a few hours out of my Imrens. Can anybody recommend a longer lasting brand? How long do yours normally last? This question is for anybody to answer... On top of everything else, when I'm charging mine, the light turns green, but it's only at 78% according to the P3. I leave it on the charger longer and it goes to 99%, but it still doesn't last much.

Something's not kosher in Denmark :) Hope this will help you resolve your issues:

For my P3s and gaggle of DNA 40/30 box mods and REOs which use an 18650 I ONLY use flat tops:

Sony VCT5 - no longer available
Sony VCT4
Just ordered some Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh which have a great rep and are available from a trusted and reliable vendor. I don't buy bats or chargers from ebay, Amazon, China, Mars, Pluto etc. /lol Only trusted vendors since their are lots of counterfits out their.
In my ProVari 2.5 and REO Mini I only use AW IMR button top bats which are highly regarded and available in all the usual mod sizes (350,490,650) from many trusted vendors.

I use and lots of folks also love the XTAR chargers which should only be purchased from a trusted vendor like RTDVAPOR.com How long a given bat lasts is quite subjective since some of us vape like their is no tomorrow as in chain vaping and others only take draws every 30 minutes. All the bats I've listed last me about one day at least. BUT, I rotate Mods and have way way to many. :)

HTH

:)
 
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Rikk

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Thank you! I just wish these 18350's lasted longer... All I can get is a few hours out of my Imrens. Can anybody recommend a longer lasting brand? How long do yours normally last? This question is for anybody to answer... On top of everything else, when I'm charging mine, the light turns green, but it's only at 78% according to the P3. I leave it on the charger longer and it goes to 99%, but it still doesn't last much.
I would highly recommend the new AW 350s. Like you, I wish they lasted a little longer but I get good stamina from my AW's.

Have you had your P3 updated yet? I hear we should get a little more life out of out batteries with the new update.
 
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Rikk

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I mean brittle as in the wire snaps, or may snap if I am not careful, when tightening down the deck screws.

Fuggettabout twist and tug, one wire snaps the other I can twist and tug. It may also be that the underside of the Rs screw heads are sharp.

Knowing that I take extra care on the SqRs.
Ya, it shouldn't be brittle like that man. I mean I can tighten my posts up tight with out the wire snapping. And then it takes me a few tugs and twists to remove the extra wire. I have to be careful because sometimes I tighten the posts so tight that I can't remove the damn rod from coil.

I think it would be strange if you got bad wire, I guess it could happen but it makes me wonder if you do have sharp post screws. My tempered wire is definitely firmer than my annealed, but I wouldn't consider it brittle at all. [emoji2]
 
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Rikk

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First ever Kanthal build for my Squape. I'm not a fan of this new juice I tried tho :(

Vapin good and I think it looks pretty sharp too. I'm posting a picture of my build too, not that it's any different from my nickel builds - it still looks like a bowtie,
uploadfromtaptalk1433354679962.jpg
but it seems to be leak free and giving me lots of vapor!
uploadfromtaptalk1433354578722.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1433354614828.jpg
 

fogmust

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I have the newer AW IMR 18350s and 18490s, they both do a pretty damn good job for me.

My 350s will get me through an entire tank on my Taifun, or more than a tank on my SqR with nano/bell cap.

I believe they are like 800mah/12A and 1200mah/15A

Something's not kosher in Denmark :) Hope this will help you resolve your issues:

For my P3s and gaggle of DNA 40/30 box mods and REOs which use an 18650 I ONLY use flat tops:

Sony VCT5 - no longer available
Sony VCT4
Just ordered some Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh which have a great rep and are available from a trusted and reliable vendor. I don't buy bats or chargers from ebay, Amazon, China, Mars, Pluto etc. /lol Only trusted vendors since their are lots of counterfits out their.
In my ProVari 2.5 and REO Mini I only use AW IMR button top bats which are highly regarded and available in all the usual mod sizes (350,490,650) from many trusted vendors.

I use and lots of folks also love the XTAR chargers which should only be purchased from a trusted vendor like RTDVAPOR.com How long a given bat lasts is quite subjective since some of us vape like their is no tomorrow as in chain vaping and others only take draws every 30 minutes. All the bats I've listed last me about one day at least. BUT, I rotate Mods and have way way to many. :)

HTH

:)

I would highly recommend the new AW 350s. Like you, I wish they lasted a little longer but I get good stamina from my AW's.

Have you had your P3 updated yet? I hear we should get a little more life out of out batteries with the new update.

Thank you all for the suggestions! I love this thread, it's my home now. ;) I know I should have posted this question elsewhere, but I knew I'm going to get good info here.
As far as 18650's go, I have a couple of Sony's and Samsungs and those work well. However, with an 18650 and the Squape R on top, it makes it look like I'm vaping a telephone pole with the P3. I just love the look of the Rs with 350's. I think I'm going to buy some from RTD....
As far as my P3 goes... I only bought it a couple of weeks ago, shouldn't it be with the latest firmware? I'll check when I go home. I don't take it work because of the damn weak 350's.
 

jazzvaper

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@Rikk Thanks for mentioning the lightness of the aluminum because I've been debating about buying one. Now I won't.

The weight of the SS is perfect for me. And, for $ 75 more I can get the entire rig. Also thought of buying a la carte. Not that either. It's the whole hog or nuthin. :)

BTW, I am not very concerned about the brittleness of the LV tempered and strongly doubt "bad wire". I'll pay attention if someone else raises the issue.
 

SeniorBoy

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As far as my P3 goes... I only bought it a couple of weeks ago, shouldn't it be with the latest firmware? I'll check when I go home. I don't take it work because of the damn weak 350's.
Hard to say. REV 38 is the latest and I think ?? new purchases from the ProVape site were shipped with this version starting around 5/5/2015 but better check. If you need to upgrade, some local B&Ms who are authorized can do it but you need to check. Or as a last resort, you can ship it back to the mother ship. They turn them around fast but you still have no light saber for a few days.

HTH
:)
 

LazyBulldogge

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Wow, the Rs with the P3 in 18350 is steak sauce :D Just need the cone-shaped 23 mm AFC to top it all off - WANT!
Thanks for making it even more of a struggle to resist upgrading :p

I usually go through something like 4 AW IMR 18350's in a day btw (1.5 ohms @ 10 watts).
 

Rikk

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So I absolutely struggled getting my nickel build to register correctly. When I first threw it on my Flask it read .30 - way higher than I knew it was. I adjusted my 510 screw and it read even higher. Adjusted it again and still in the high 20s.

I took the PIN out and washed it with alcohol and it still took me several turns of the PIN to get it down to .15. Damn it!

I guess I was hoping this resistance issue would have been corrected somehow magically with my new SqRs. I've found if the 510 pin isn't in the perfect position it will mess with the resistance readings. This go around was more of a struggle but I got it now and it's vaping great.

I'm getting a much warmer if not almost hotter vape. It's got to be the reduced chimney height. I bet @PhoneGuy would luv it. Hey where you been anyway?

Gunna seriously look at getting some of the Teflon threads for my 510 to see if that finally resolves the resistance issue. Gotta remember where I was told to buy it tho.
 

Rikk

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Wow, the Rs with the P3 in 18350 is steak sauce :D Just need the cone-shaped 23 mm AFC to top it all off - WANT!
Thanks for making it even more of a struggle to resist upgrading [emoji14]

I usually go through something like 4 AW IMR 18350's in a day btw (1.5 ohms @ 10 watts).
I know... I wish they made a P3 base or even some sort of 23mm tapered ring for it. I wish Provari would reach out to them...
 
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