OHM meter on the V5

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Keeferes

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I should be getting my new V5, batteries (2 Efest 2k maH 18650), and charger in the mail today or tomorrow. I am a noob coming off of a Kanger Ego style into this one. I have not been happy at all with the quality of the Kanger heads I have been using. I know quality control is a huge issue with these heads. For this reason I have my 30 gage Kanthal coming too. I am going to step into rebuilding these heads, since it seems pretty straight forward based on my research. I'm a very tech savvy kind of guy. Going to try Cotton wick, but I have some 2mm silica on standby because I know getting my cotton amount dialed in is going to be frustrating at first. All of this background brings me to my question...

Is the built in OHMS meter pretty accurate in it's readings? For now my monthly budget has been blown, so have to wait until next month to get a stand alone unit for checking. However, if the V5 isn't reliable on this front, I will hold off building my own until I have a good stand alone meter. I'm ok with +/- .1 or .2, thats gonna happen. But since I'm learning, I don't want extra challenges right now by not reading the right numbers for what I'm building. I will be targeting 1.8-2.2 for use in Evod, PT2, and Davide tanks.

Thanks ahead of time for any help, tips, recommendations, or advice any of you may have.
 

xyanide

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The ohm metering on any vamo should be pretty accurate. The most deviation you can get is when the contact isn't clean or the coil leads aren't sitting properly in whatever hold them down. On a variable voltage/wattage device like a vamo you don't really need to be super accurate and when it shorts the device will protect your coil and battery.
You don't need a dedicated resistance checker. About $5-15 should get you a half-decent multimeter in any electronics section of the DIY store and most of them can read out ohms (just check the markings on it to make sure).
 
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Keeferes

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The ohm metering on any vamo should be pretty accurate. The most deviation you can get is when the contact isn't clean or the coil leads aren't sitting properly in whatever hold them down. On a variable voltage/wattage device like a vamo you don't really need to be super accurate and when it shorts the device will protect your coil and battery.
You don't need a dedicated resistance checker. About $5-15 should get you a half-decent multimeter in any electronics section of the DIY store and most of them can read out ohms (just check the markings on it to make sure).

Thanks for the response. That's what I figured based on my research. My fluke MM does all that. The stand alone unit is just more for protecting the threads on my Vamo, and a smaller form factor with screw in that my Fluke doesn't have more then anything. All new and spiffy and stuff, she'll get babied for the first little while.
 

SirSteve

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You should be fine, like xyanide stated. Never a bad idea to have a multimeter around, lots of uses besides vaping related stuff, and you can check batteries other than just the ones you use in your Vamo to see if they are any good. The stand alone boxes are a nice thing to have. Pick something when you can afford it.
 

Keeferes

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Gotta love Fluke products, I still want one! Good luck and happy vaping.

I'm a semester away from graduating with a B.A.T.S. in computer science. My focus was Internet and Multimedia applications, but my program required extensive training in hardware configurations. I had a meter from Walmart... Lets just say we had a disagreement so I bought a Fluke and we love each other. lol.
 

K_Tech

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Thanks for the response. That's what I figured based on my research. My fluke MM does all that. The stand alone unit is just more for protecting the threads on my Vamo, and a smaller form factor with screw in that my Fluke doesn't have more then anything. All new and spiffy and stuff, she'll get babied for the first little while.

My Vamo (V3) reads slightly higher than my Fluke, (rounding 1.73 ohms to 1.8, for example) but that could just be the wiring in the head. I only use it as a check to make sure nothing's wrong, not necessarily as a definitive resistance check, but it works well enough for what it is, I think.
 

awsum140

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Another thing you may notice, and this applies to any APV with an ohm meter function, is that you get a high reading. Then fire the coil and it will read significantly lower. This would seem to be because the current through the coil "cleans" the connections. I rebuild CE3s all the time and it happens quite a bit.
 

Keeferes

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Another thing you may notice, and this applies to any APV with an ohm meter function, is that you get a high reading. Then fire the coil and it will read significantly lower. This would seem to be because the current through the coil "cleans" the connections. I rebuild CE3s all the time and it happens quite a bit.

I have found this out since using since yesterday. That's cool though, cause bottom line is that that's the device using the head, so it doesn't really matter what another device would read. The Vamo will adjust to what it is seeing.
 

Keeferes

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Rimau:11989598 said:
Fluke is the best, but $2 on sale at harbor freight will work fine. Just remember to touch the two leads together to find how much you will need to subtract (meter alone 1.1, tank=3.5, minus 1.1=2.4 is the actual ohm).

BTW: a 9.9ohm reading means something else.

Thanks. Yeah I actually have been using my fluke as comparison between mods. Vamo is always within + -. 1. Now the VTR and sid are off most times. I had the rma my sid, so I'll compare again when the replacement comes in.
 

mightymen

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    No you can't
    I have a Vamo V2 for over a year I went out also and got OHMS meter back than used it very very little now I only use it to double check my batteries voltage which can be done with the Vamo as with all meter reading none are 100% accurate degree of 3% + or -

    Even if its off 3% that's only .072 ohms on a 2.4 ohm coil I don't think its a big deal.

    IMO: All you need is a Vamo and hold on to your money it checks battery and ohms.
     
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    EBates

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    I've seen this several times with factory built ivod heads. My Puritanks come with ivod coils. I've never been a fan, but have one Protank clone that requires their use. At first install I've seem some over 3 ohms initially and after the first firing they drop to whatever their marked value is. Since I don't normally use them I haven't had a reason to take one apart yet.
    To Be Continued.
     

    darkmader

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    A bit off topic, but it goes with the OP's post. I'm going to start to rebuild my own proheads now too but there are so many threads about it which is insane. I have the huge micro coil thread bookmarked but it's just too long. I will go the wick route instead of cotton as I've spent too many hours on cotton threads and nobody really has a good answer about what cotton to use, boil this, use this method etc.... Maybe I'll do it down the road but wicks are dirt cheap and I'll get my feet wet using that first.

    That said, were there any threads or sites/vids that you guys used to make your rebuilds for the first time that was easy and did a great job? I know I'll get into the advanced techniques down the road once I get the hang of it but for now I just want your standard info that will get the job done.
     
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