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Okay I now have the AGA Tiamat PLUS w/Glass Tank . . . say what?????

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Brozilla

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What PV do you plan to run it on? And don't get frustrated, it will happen. Some people (my self included) were able to set it up pretty well the 1st time, with others it takes more time figuring it out. This thread and especially this one http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nyone-tried-aga-tiamat-plus-w-glass-tank.html contain all of the info you need. But ask questions if you run into problems.

I will be using it on my VAMO


I bought mine from cloudsofvapor.com for $26.99 and if you use the coupon BIGBUYER they take off $2.xx off the order. I also got the glass tube replacement for $2.00 more! Not bad

AGA-T2

http://www.cloudsofvapor.com/store/...1699-aga-t2-genesis-rebuildable-atomizer.html

AGA-T2 glass tank replacement

http://www.cloudsofvapor.com/store/...anks/1700-aga-t-2-glass-replacement-tube.html
 

zmyoung

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My first one ran for awhile then it shorted out. You will have no problem building more wick and coils for the AGA-T when you receive your supplies. Well. . ... let me add this lol
I was building like a "pro" for the first few days. Then for some reason I hit a dry spell - literally. They wouldn't fire, they would short, ohms would be low then I received continually the OP error message. (open)
I had never received that before... then I remembered when I was cleaning out the setup before rebuilding I completely disassembled it. The post that connects to the battery was not making contact. So there you go. Now I am back up and running. So many hours of my life have been spent on this single thing it is ridiculous when I think about it. Anyway off to build another coil and maybe DIY some juice :D


I rolled my first wick and wrapped my first coil a couple of days ago from the little bit of wire and mesh supplied with the AGA.

Before attempting to fire it, I put it on my Ovale V8 and tested for the ohm reading. 1.8 ohm, not bad for a first coil, I thought to myself. I then put it on the Provari to double check it. E error. So there was a short somewhere.

I started to make adjustments to the coil and the wire broke between positive post and the wick. I'm not sure if that was the location of the original short or not, but the remaining wire from the AGA kit looks pretty frazzeled and I don't even want to make another attempt with another coil using that.

I made an order today for more mesh and wire and will attempt another coil when the supplies come.
 

eHuman

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My first one ran for awhile then it shorted out. You will have no problem building more wick and coils for the AGA-T when you receive your supplies. Well. . ... let me add this lol
I was building like a "pro" for the first few days. Then for some reason I hit a dry spell - literally. They wouldn't fire, they would short, ohms would be low then I received continually the OP error message. (open)
I had never received that before... then I remembered when I was cleaning out the setup before rebuilding I completely disassembled it. The post that connects to the battery was not making contact. So there you go. Now I am back up and running. So many hours of my life have been spent on this single thing it is ridiculous when I think about it. Anyway off to build another coil and maybe DIY some juice :D

For the "open" problem, check your positive and negative contacts and make certain that they did not loosen. Oops, just saw that you found it, good job!
 

Baditude

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Overdue update for this thread:

I finally got more mesh and wire from RTD Vapor. I already had a wick made from my previous attempt. So I made another coil from the newly acquired 30g wire. This coil was done better.

I had watched several video's on how to wrap a Genesis coil, and made my second coil by using the technique done by Zen at an outdoor picnick. I liked how he wrapped the coil by spinning the RBA in his hand while holding the wire still in the other hand. He wraps the coil in under a minute all the while explaining what he's doing. The photography leaves something to be desired, but you get the idea fine:



Back on topic. My coil's resistance tested out at 1.6 ohm and no errors on the Provari. Did the necessary pulse seasoning of the coil while increasing voltage and looking for hot spots, and continuing to watch for any errors or change in resistance. Finally was satisfied to add the juice. Started low and worked up to around 3.5 volts.

Massive vapor! The most I've ever had with any delivery device. The flavor at first was "ok"; I removed a coffee flavor and replaced it with an apple fruit flavor. Much better. After a whole tankful I added more apple and mixed in some cinnamon, which I happen to like in a cartotank (cinnamon candy apple anyone?). The flavor has progressively improved, and I'm currently on the third tank ful, using this both on my Silver Bullet and the Provari.
 
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zmyoung

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YAY!!! I am watching it after posting this. I received some 30g Kanthal wire in the mail today. I now have hundreds of feet of multiple gauge wire.
I at first attributed this to my stock pile frame of mind but after many mistakes looks like I made the right choice lol.

Okay I do have a question which forgive me if it is answered in this video and/or even on this thread.

Here's the situation. Keeping in mind I always end up fixing it but it would help to know the cause. Often when I am testing my coil for hot spots etc. the first coil coming off the negative post will not receive heat. Sure if I keep it fired up long enough it may eventually get it and after much "fiddling" it works.

I am just curious if this is just what everyone deals with in the way of adjusting and building or if there is a simple solution.


Overdue update for this thread:

I finally got more mesh and wire from RTD Vapor. I already had a wick made from my previous attempt. So I made another coil from the newly acquired 30g wire. This coil was done better.

I had watched several video's on how to wrap a Genesis coil, and made my second coil by using the technique done by Zen at an outdoor picnick. I liked how he wrapped the coil by spinning the RBA in his hand while holding the wire still in the other hand. He wraps the coil in under a minute all the while explaining what he's doing. The photography leaves something to be desired, but you get the idea fine:



Back on topic. My coil's resistance tested out at 1.6 ohm and no errors on the Provari. Did the necessary pulse seasoning of the coil while increasing voltage and looking for hot spots, and continuing to watch for any errors or change in resistance. Finally was satisfied to add the juice. Started low and worked up to around 3.5 volts.

Massive vapor! The most I've ever had with any delivery device. The flavor at first was "ok"; I removed a coffee flavor and replaced it with an apple fruit flavor. Much better. After a whole tankful I added more apple and mixed in some cinnamon, which I happen to like in a cartotank (cinnamon candy apple anyone?). The flavor has progressively improved, and I'm currently on the third tank ful, using this both on my Silver Bullet and the Provari.
 

zmyoung

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1. What size to cut SS mesh?
Okay so I have seen a video of someone stating the exact measurement of the SS mesh prior to building the wick.

I cannot roll as tight as they could because it simply will not fit no matter how long I work with it. My fingers were raw and I finally gave up.

Anyone have a size to work with to ensure the SS wick will fit so that less material is wasted?

2. How do you prepare the SS mesh before/after and/or during the building of the wick and coil?
I have seen tutorials both ways to burn or not to burn. The previous video I though I understood him to say the ss wick would oxidize as you were firing it up so am I incorrect in assuming that he did not do this prior to the build?
Maybe that is not the proper way to ask. What have you found to be the better method.
Heavy burn and quench multiples times, then drip vg burn and quench multiple times?
Once over burn and quench?
No burn until the coil is wrapped?
So many different methods. I have always used the first one I saw. Burn and quench 5x. Drip juice and burn off and quench a few more times.
 

Baditude

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1. What size to cut SS mesh? I cannot roll as tight as they could because it simply will not fit no matter how long I work with it. My fingers were raw and I finally gave up.
I know exactly what you mean. I watched people rolling their mesh around a drill bit or paper clip, both of which barely fit in the default hole of the AGA even before the mesh is added. I have a suspecion that many people are enlarging the wick hole of the AGA.

I also see people rolling a solid wick, it isn't really necessary for the center to be hollow like a straw.
 

eHuman

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I start with 1.5" x 3" regardless if it is 400 or 500 mesh. My AGA-T+ has an unmodified wick hole.

I roll without a pin or needle in the center but it can make it easier to start it out.

Once about 1/3 of it is rolled, I unroll it and start over working out the straw hole that is there even without a pin/needle starter. If you do not get this first section solid before continuing on, you won't be able to do it later.

Sometimes I will back it up 2-4 times before I am happy with it, but it only takes a little time each time.

As you roll your wick, pull outward towards the edges as if you were trying to stretch it while rolling it up.

Sort of starting each rolling motion from the center and ending with your thumbs/fingers towards the ends, re-position fingers and repeat until done.

Stop as needed to push the two ends together if they are not perfectly "square".

Always hold the amount that you have rolled up with at least one hand so that it doesn't loosen any when you re-position your fingers to continue.

I wait to fold inward the last bit until the end instead of doing it before the roll, just a preference.

Using this technique take me very little time (less time than typing this up), and can roll a 3" piece so that it is loose enough in the wick hole that it is obvious that more can fit. I try for a perfect fit so that I don't end up rolling it as tight as I can do it.

Hope this helps some.

Edit: I run both sides of the mesh across the gas stove covering the whole surface just long enough to get it glowing but never for any length of time, always moving it. This isn't so much to oxidize it as it is to make it easier to work with. When my roll it complete I use the stove to glow the wick x 3 and do clear juice burns x 3. Very little (time wise) compared to any video I have seen.

Current takes the path of least resistance. Your wick will not appear as an "open" to your multi-meter. It just needs to be relatively higher than the coil.

The main oxidation needed is happening when firing your coil at low voltage and working out the hot spots. Repeated pulsing during this process as you go up through your voltage range completes the necessary coil/wick oxidation.
 
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zmyoung

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Oh my goodness, thank you thank you thank you!!!!

You rock!
I will be trying again with this tonight with the help you provided. :)



I start with 1.5" x 3" regardless if it is 400 or 500 mesh. My AGA-T+ has an unmodified wick hole.

I roll without a pin or needle in the center but it can make it easier to start it out.

Once about 1/3 of it is rolled, I unroll it and start over working out the straw hole that is there even without a pin/needle starter. If you do not get this first section solid before continuing on, you won't be able to do it later.

Sometimes I will back it up 2-4 times before I am happy with it, but it only takes a little time each time.

As you roll your wick, pull outward towards the edges as if you were trying to stretch it while rolling it up.

Sort of starting each rolling motion from the center and ending with your thumbs/fingers towards the ends, re-position fingers and repeat until done.

Stop as needed to push the two ends together if they are not perfectly "square".

Always hold the amount that you have rolled up with at least one hand so that it doesn't loosen any when you re-position your fingers to continue.

I wait to fold inward the last bit until the end instead of doing it before the roll, just a preference.

Using this technique take me very little time (less time than typing this up), and can roll a 3" piece so that it is loose enough in the wick hole that it is obvious that more can fit. I try for a perfect fit so that I don't end up rolling it as tight as I can do it.

Hope this helps some.

Edit: I run both sides of the mesh across the gas stove covering the whole surface just long enough to get it glowing but never for any length of time, always moving it. This isn't so much to oxidize it as it is to make it easier to work with. When my roll it complete I use the stove to glow the wick x 3 and do clear juice burns x 3. Very little (time wise) compared to any video I have seen.

Current takes the path of least resistance. Your wick will not appear as an "open" to your multi-meter. It just needs to be relatively higher than the coil.

The main oxidation needed is happening when firing your coil at low voltage and working out the hot spots. Repeated pulsing during this process as you go up through your voltage range completes the necessary coil/wick oxidation.
 

eHuman

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The supply is waaaaaay under the demand. Every distributor received a small amount and sold out pretty quickly, some withing an hour of posting. A lot of hype went into them and the initial release volume was severely underestimated. I hear it will take quite some time for another production run and round two will be just like round one.
 
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