Mike, I've been slowly reading up on RBAs and have a question. Actually a couple of questions.
First, could you give me a link to the EXACT kind of cotton yarn I should use. I know it's Peaches and Cream 100% cotton, right? And, I think it's supposed to be unbleached. Yet, I thought I read something here about bleached maybe wicking better.
Second question is about SS mesh. Am I understanding right that SS is torched in order to build up carbon? Because otherwise it conducts electricity? If so, that doesn't seem like the greatest choice for a wick. Or, am I just being silly?
Yes for cotton, Peaches & Cream is a poplular brand to use. Folks go back and forth on bleached, 100% organic ,etc, etc. I don't know if the commercial Peaches & Cream is bleached or not - but a lot of people use/like it.
A lot of people just like and use the cotton from cotton rolls/batten available at places like CVS. They just pull a section out and gently roll it to shape then thread it through their wicks.
Yet another popular 'wick' to use is bamboo - poplular brand is Aunt Lydia's #10. I mainly use bamboo for Vivi Nova rebuilds.
And the current rage is hemp. I've tryed it but don't like it. It wicks better than cotton/bamboo and is more resistant to burning but I don't like the taste it has. Depending on the
juice it imparts and earthy/woody taste or changes the taste entirely. I've mainly used it with fruit flavors. It might be OK with tobacco flavors, I've heard some say it even though it has it's own taste it changes them for the 'better'.
Stainless steel - probably still the most widely used wick. Yes the easiest most consistent way to setup a coil/wick with SS is to 'torch' the SS before use to 'oxidize' it. It was common to roll the wick, torch it 'till it glowed orange/red, quench it in water, repeat this process 3 times, then put a few drop of PG or VG on it, light it, let it burn out, repeat this 3 times.
Now it's more common and accepted to lightly torch the mesh, then roll it, then insert into the addy and coil it. Less oxidation is supposed to enhance wicking and keep the juice from turning dark by leaching all the oxidation/carbon from the wick.
Currently there's a trend to not torch / oxidize the mesh at all. This takes patience and just the right tension of the coil to the wick. Once the coil is wound, then multiple pulses of power, and fiddling with the coil to remove shorts/hot spots, until just the area under the coil becomes oxidized to avoid shorts.
Note: this is becoming popular for folks to be trying because someone has brought up a caution that oxidizing the SS to high temps is forming a particular form of chromium molecule (CR6 I think) that is known to be cancerous and it may leach into the juice and or be inhaled. There's a lot of discussion, debate and fuss being made about this currently. If you're interested in following up on this I can post the threads about it. I've been following them since they started about a week back.