On Line Tutorial Class

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Kewtsquirrel

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May 21, 2009
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I hope everyone got their parts together, tonight I'll be doing a LIVE webcam tutorial on assembling a USB passthru.

For video/voice: Add grit240@yahoo.com to your yahoo messenger buddylist, I'll be broadcasting over yahoo w/ video and voice, answering questions as we go.

Expect the whole thing to take an hour or two depending on how slow everyone wants the steps, I'll be putting up a pictorial walkthrough afterwards for those who were unable to attend.

If we have time, I'll do a couple different styles and maybe a magnum.
 
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Kewtsquirrel

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May 21, 2009
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I didnt get all the parts yet =(
I hope you will do this again soon! I just got back also from being out all day and I think I messed some of it.. I will deffinitely catch this next time. Wish you could save the tutorial and all and post it!
Lori B

As you wish!

First things first: Parts! I used a different box that I surreptitiously obtained from yet to be named sources, but it'll work just the same. From left to right:

1/4 Watt 220 ohm resistor,
superbright mini led,
OEM dse901 connector ($3!! check the "actual 801 and 901 connectors thread to order yours!),
A box!
USB cable - These were only $0.99 at fry's so they're not black, oh well.

P1000989.JPG


Next we drill our holes - I used a handy drillbit sizer to figure out what size my holes needed to be, but of course the perfect fit the 901 atty was the ONE drillbit I don't have, so I used a zipbit in my dremel to enlarge it slightly. Here they are drilled and ready to go:
P1000992.JPG


Now, before we continue, make sure everything fits, I've gotten to the end before and stuff doesn't fit, it sucks, don't be me.
P1000995.JPG


Next, drill the hole for your USB cable. Make it snug, you'll glue it in place, but snugger is better.
P1000996.JPG


Right, now you've got all your holes, its time for the funpart, cut off the end of the USB cable you're not using and strip the wires to the appropriate length, you'll want your negative wire to be the right length for your battery connector ground, the red will be shortened for the switch. Strip the main insulation from the USB cable, and then snip the white and green wires, these are for data and useless to us. You should be left with only the black and red like so:
P1000997.JPG


Now, solder your negative wire to the body of the connector, I used my helping hands for this, you need to get the body hot enough for everything to stick, and make sure you use FLUX. If you don't have flux, or know what it is, go buy some. Right now, I'll wait.
...
...
...
Great, now you've got flux, solder your black wire to the body, and the positive to one leg of your switch. Then use a very short piece of wire to connect the center post of your atomizer to whatever leg of your switch closes when you push it. Use a voltmeter to test this. On the radioshack ones, you'll see little lines on the bottom of the switch between the legs. The lines are always connected, across the lines are connected when you push the switch. Now everything should look like this:
P1000998.JPG


Now its time for LEDs, I for one love pretty lights, so I'm all about LEDs. Solder the negative from your LED to the body of the connector, then the positive leg of the LED to a resistor, and then the switch. Unless you've got 5v LEDs, then you don't need a resistor. Now it should look like this:
P1000999.JPG


Woot, now *everything* is soldered, that means you're done, all you need to do now is button everything up. I use hotglue, be careful placing the switch and make sure it doesn't bind and works properly. Glue the switch first, then everything else after. I usually liberally apply glue to all of the connections to pad them against drops etc.
So now you're all buttoned up, guess what, you have a USB passthru, that's it, you're done! You've got vapor, you've got pretty lights, you've got a button that makes a kickass clicky noise when you push it.
P1010001.JPG


Now all thats left is to repackage everything all pretty-like and drop it in the mail for its new owner!
P1010003.JPG


Any questions? :)
 

Kewtsquirrel

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May 21, 2009
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Hi Nerf,
I have half a mind to do a usb PT mod, but in this regard i hav a question.
In the mod u hav shown, what happens if the atomiser shorts out?
Normally do all adaptors have current limiting inbuilt?

I don't see how the atomizer would short out on the OEM connector, you're not going to over-tighten it and bypass the silicon insulator, and even if you did most USB hubs are going to have built-in protection. My laptop will shut down the port if it senses too large of a current draw, for example.

As for the built-in current limiting, some passthroughs have a battery in-line, and their design is such that you're not actually using your USB port to do anything except keep the battery charged, you are simply vaping off of battery power.

That being said, I have one of those P/Ts in front of me right now that someone sent to me so I could use the connector to make them one that worked, and as far as I can gather looking at the PCB, it has nothing protecting the battery in the event of a short and uses an unprotected 10440 li-ion 360ma battery. If anything, this would be even more dangerous as a short could cause your battery to discharge at an extremely high rate and explode.

As with everything else in life, use your best judgement based on the best information you have available, if you're worried about a short harming your computer, research the specs on your motherboard or call the manufacturer and ask them.
 

kalc

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Jun 7, 2009
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4
Delhi, India
Hi Nerf,
Yes, i completely agree that it would be even more dangerous with a battery right in front of ones face:).
Normally when an atomiser malfunctions, one would expect it to become open circuit, but somewhere in a post i was reading that someone measured a short with a multimeter wit one of his defunct atomisers.
In ur experience with these things, hav u or someone else ever observed a short circuited aomiser when it stopped funtioning?
In my laptop too i hav seen the same feature(by accident though), but i am not sure abt my desktop(havent shorted the usb yet:p).
The other option is to use the usb adaptors, but since they are so cheap, i am afraid they dont hav any current limit mechanism, which means that the secondary coil will most probably get damaged in case of a SC.
My point is, what abt an LDO with a current limit of somewhere around 1.5A to 2A in the passthrough? Hav u considered such an option?
U might hav a customer here:D
 

Kewtsquirrel

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May 21, 2009
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DFW, TX
moddersupply.com
Hi Nerf,
Yes, i completely agree that it would be even more dangerous with a battery right in front of ones face:).
Normally when an atomiser malfunctions, one would expect it to become open circuit, but somewhere in a post i was reading that someone measured a short with a multimeter wit one of his defunct atomisers.
In ur experience with these things, hav u or someone else ever observed a short circuited aomiser when it stopped funtioning?
In my laptop too i hav seen the same feature(by accident though), but i am not sure abt my desktop(havent shorted the usb yet:p).
The other option is to use the usb adaptors, but since they are so cheap, i am afraid they dont hav any current limit mechanism, which means that the secondary coil will most probably get damaged in case of a SC.
My point is, what abt an LDO with a current limit of somewhere around 1.5A to 2A in the passthrough? Hav u considered such an option?
U might hav a customer here:D

Kalc,

I just don't really see the need in passthrus, shorts are rare and discovered quickly enough that even if the USB power source you're using doesn't have any form of current limiting, damage should be nil. Shorting out a $2 USB hub for 2-3 seconds shouldn't cause any long term damage to it, and thats as long as you're going to keep that button pressed without getting any vapor.

Adding an LDO would simply complicate construction and raise the cost.
 

Ragman

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Sep 19, 2009
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Hamlin, New York, USA
Hey Nerf.

Great tutorial. I have only 1 question. Which leg of the switch does the resistor get soldered to? I see you said the center of your connector goes to the "open" leg of the switch and the positive wire of the usb cable to the leg diagonally across from that. Im not sure which leg the resistor will get soldered to?

Thanks man for taking the time to teach us.
 
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