P16 Vents....and battery question

[joelongwood]

Hi,
I'm about to pull the trigger on the P16..........just too damned beautiful to resist! I already have the P10 (another stunning PV), but the battery life is a major drawback for me. I've done a lot of reading about the venting of the P16/18 models, and I've decided to go with a P16 NO vent design, purely for aesthetic reasons. As I'm only using it with one protected 16340 battery at 3.7V, I don't know if the vents will be necessary.
In any case, when ordering, if I just place the order for a P16, does it automatically come WITHOUT the vents, or do I have to specify exactly what I want in the comments box?
Regarding the batteries, will the P16 accept any protected 16340 3.7 volt batteries? The reason I ask is that I have a bunch of blue UltraFire 16340 protected batteries (3.7 880mah) that I use with the Screwdriver MKI. I'll eventually purchase the AW batts, but I don't want to add more $ to the credit card right now. Will these UltraFires work?

Thanks for all your help.

Oh, and one more thing if you don't mind.............if I place the order today, when do you estimate it might arrive?

 

[forcedfuel50]

Good afternoon!

It automatically comes without vents. It will accept the ultrafire 16340's, no problem. Estimated wait time on the P16's i'd have to put at about 10 business days, maybe less if things go well as i only have ten pending orders left on the p16's.

 

[New_World]

Good afternoon!

It automatically comes without vents. It will accept the ultrafire 16340's, no problem. Estimated wait time on the P16's i'd have to put at about 10 business days, maybe less if things go well as i only have ten pending orders left on the p16's.

awesome!
I'm one of those 10 p16 orders.

if you're using LR 510 attys.....I'd go with the IMRs IMO.

 

[vapn]

Is there any issue with the IMR being too short for the P16? I guess I could always use a magnet spacer if needed. I don't have any IMRs in that size YET...

 

[pipes1]

The AW IMRs work fine. Just add shims to adjust your button throw for personal preference, and you are good to go.

 

[forcedfuel50]

Is there any issue with the IMR being too short for the P16? I guess I could always use a magnet spacer if needed. I don't have any IMRs in that size YET...

The AW IMR 16340 fits like clockwork in the Precise 16340. Just make sure you have the two orings in the bottom of the battery chamber (it ships with the two Orings already installed in it, so unless someone removed one, nothing need be done).

 

[vapn]

Rubs hands together while saying ..... Excellent!

 

[grimmer255]

you guys crack me up

Hey David what do think about putting vent holes on the body near the atties cap just before the internal threads?

I was thinking of sending you my P16 once you have all your orders out. I would like to have a few vent holes placed there that point away from the face. I'm thinking that with the vent holes in place at that location would help with venting the warmth from the atties center post to the battery. This might help with the warmth to body of the P16 as well.

Just a thought~~~~~~

 

[BrockJ]

The body of the P16 (And I'm sure the P18) gets warm from your hand.
It's stainless and retains the heat / warmth longer. I kinda like it..

I did leave it in the truck the other day for about two hours and when I got back it was schmooookin...
I immediately popped the batt out and held it up in front of the AC vent... 106° here in Dallas.

 

[forcedfuel50]

The body of the P16 (And I'm sure the P18) gets warm from your hand.
It's stainless and retains the heat / warmth longer. I kinda like it..

I did leave it in the truck the other day for about two hours and when I got back it was schmooookin...
I immediately popped the batt out and held it up in front of the AC vent... 106° here in Dallas.

Your Precise can take the heat, your battery on the other hand

Heat your Precise hot enough and it will turn a golden color, I put a 16340 body over the burner flame. It's kinda cool...

 

[RooD]

Red Hot P16 =D, also I have a question since this pertains to vent holes somewhat... if my batteries were to malfunctions (explode?) would stainless steel make it less or more devastating?

 

[Switched]

Red Hot P16 =D, also I have a question since this pertains to vent holes somewhat... if my batteries were to malfunctions (explode?) would stainless steel make it less or more devastating?

Depends of the modulus of elasticity of the parent material.

 

[VaporMadness]

Red Hot P16 =D, also I have a question since this pertains to vent holes somewhat... if my batteries were to malfunctions (explode?) would stainless steel make it less or more devastating?

If a battery does "pop", I have no idea how much pressure an out gassing battery can produce. Maybe I'm being overly cautious by insisting on vents, idk.

I imagine a SS steel tube will do a better job of containing pressure w/o a physically ripping apart (ala shrapnel flying pipe bomb). But if enough pressure builds up to exceed the SS tube's ability to hold together... I would guess the resulting mayhem would be even worse.

Suppose the batt "pops", some pressure builds up inside, but the sealed tube's physical integrity holds (so no pipe bomb)... but now what? Do you dare to unscrew and end cap? Seems like this would be akin to opening the radiator cap when the system is fully pressurized.

Anyway... this line of thinking is why I went with vents.

Depends of the modulus of elasticity of the parent material.

Of course, its crystal clear now

 

[Vaporologist]

Depends of the modulus of elasticity of the parent material.

I love it when you talk dirty!

 

[Switched]

I love it when you talk dirty!

Ah, but a true statement nonetheless my dear VP

 

[cy1970]

If a battery does "pop", I have no idea how much pressure an out gassing battery can produce. Maybe I'm being overly cautious by insisting on vents, idk.

I imagine a SS steel tube will do a better job of containing pressure w/o a physically ripping apart (ala shrapnel flying pipe bomb). But if enough pressure builds up to exceed the SS tube's ability to hold together... I would guess the resulting mayhem would be even worse.

Suppose the batt "pops", some pressure builds up inside, but the sealed tube's physical integrity holds (so no pipe bomb)... but now what? Do you dare to unscrew and end cap? Seems like this would be akin to opening the radiator cap when the system is fully pressurized.

Anyway... this line of thinking is why I went with vents.



Of course, its crystal clear now

What if when i am vaping and the battery happened to "pop"...does the vent holes help?

and what if the attachment is unable to hold with the SS tube....

pls do not get offended ..this thing just "shoot" to my mind when reading the post...

 

[VaporMadness]

What if when i am vaping and the battery happened to "pop"...does the vent holes help?

and what if the attachment is unable to hold with the SS tube....

pls do not get offended ..this thing just "shoot" to my mind when reading the post...

No offense taken...

The vents allow an avenue for the gas being violently produced by a catastrophically failed battery to escape. High pressure cannot build up in the tube because it shoots out the vents. The tube itself can't burst (and fling metal parts at high velocity) due to excess pressure. So it helps in that the pipe won't become a bomb... but flames could shoot out of the vent holes if things are bad.

Like I said, I may be being overly cautious, but I have seen pictures of the aftermath of batteries gone bad that gave me pause.

I don't understand the comment in bold text? Do you mean what if the person loses grip of the device?

[edit: oh... i think you may mean what if enough pressure builds up to pop the top cap or end cap off... i definitely wouldn't want to be in the path of those flying parts]

 

[Switched]

Education wrt battery safety is key. In VP's case because he is using LiMn batteries IMR (orange one) they do not vent with flames, safer chemistry.

I had a near runaway a few weeks ago on my P18 caused by a bad adapter which shorted out the atomiser. I was using AW LifePos at the time at 6V. Upon sensing a change in normal case temperature when the atty didn't fire, I immediately disconnected the top cap and any further incident was avoided. The batteries were indeed hot. By disconnecting the top cap the flow of current stopped and a serious incident was avoided. All this transpired in a matter of seconds, but one does indeed have sufficient reaction time to avoid catastrophe, if IMHO they are cognisant of what is going on at the time.

 

[cy1970]

so i could be vaping a hand grenade if the battery cell behaves abnormal...

i read some posts regarding the handling of Li ion cells. There are things that we need to avoid likes over discharge. Since Precise are fully mechanical parts, how are we able to tell that battery cell is not over discharge during vaping? Currently, i am using a Janty stick and once i saw the LED light blinking, I know i need to charge the batt..

I also saw 3 difference types of 16340 batt on David web,
- AW ICR 123/16340 Protected
- AW IMR 16340 3.7 Volt 550mAh
- AW LiFePO4 RCR 123 3.2 Volt 500mAh
which is considered to be most safe for noob likes me?

 

[Switched]

Vape Central: Battery - FAQ In keeping it short.

Electronic vs all mechanical does not protect you perse. Lulls you into a false sense of security yes.