P4U/Green Leaf IPV2 50W - Product Spec, Performance, Usage & Issues Thread

[suspectK]

This is what we should have received....nice build....going to do a liquid test. .
Black....wow.. they did it... logo is cleaner... I'm covering plastic window up.

Battery strap... very secure housing. The bs plastic the QC sticker screwed into snapped...so lol... yeah.. this is logical, withstand impacts much better.

Instead of just a spring or a screw, they actually worked with the problem of using that pos screw...if you're not making contact, screw down..you may hear a little click. And BOOM!

mod seems a little slimmer.. not noticeable. Touch sensor looks like it was designed to be out of the line of fire better, and it may be sealed above, and underneath..speculation from looking at the two.

The tobeco black hobo I got for it matches great...

But y eah.. I'll mess with this mod hard like I did prior too the other one. I'll post later on this week if it is surprising.


Buttons rattle a little, but I think that will help them from getting stuck...jeez.

How many have access to their internals, but without breaking the quality control seal?

 

[atroph]

Me I gently slipped a razor under the sticker and it came right off. I affixed it to a white sheet of paper so that I could scan and duplicate it on another sticker. Looks like the sticker is upgraded to a hologram version. The paper version was very thin and flimsy. I bet the new one might be a little stronger and possibly easier to slip a razor under and remove it.

 

[suspectK]

That little plastic threading broke on mine.

 

[suspectK]

Black preorder with jwrap peeled away..and black updated.

Electrical tape here and it will be sealed from my liquid... but this is worst than the last. They could've done it better. Stupid. Stupid. Stupid.

"+"button gets stuck, so I didn't take battery out.

 

[arken21]

Black preorder with jwrap peeled away..and black updated.

Electrical tape here and it will be sealed from my liquid... but this is worst than the last. They could've done it better. Stupid. Stupid. Stupid.

"+"button gets stuck, so I didn't take battery out.

Sorry i don't understand what are saying mind if you explain?

 

[suspectK]

Updated and my old preorder IPV2...

Oh...and all my atomizers will sit on the updated IPV2 whichever way I want the airholes...I kinda hate to admit. The 510 is really smart on the updated version.

 

[nukedawg]

Hope this thread is not too old... but I couldn't find any videos online for the upgraded IPV2 so I did a review of mine in case anyone wants another look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cjzv48ax420

I just wish I would have had the original to compare. Thanks to CaCHooka Man, herb and suspectK for some comparision pics! Nice!

 

[Efektt]

Anyone here sent theirs back to asmodus for repairs? What was the turnaround time? Mine is starting to jump around on resistance. Anyone fix this themselves?

 

[MrPlink]

Anyone here sent theirs back to asmodus for repairs? What was the turnaround time? Mine is starting to jump around on resistance. Anyone fix this themselves?

Have you a dressed the easy issues already?

Are you sure the connection from atty to the mods pos pin is good?

Are you sure the pos pin on your atty is secure?

Are you sure your coil(s) is secure to your atty?

Any of those things could lead to inconsistent readings

 

[Efektt]

I get the same jumping on all my attys. The pos screw in the ipv does feel a little sloppy and it very easy to turn. Maybe i should try replacing it. Anyone know the size?

 

[cjpeltz]

Where's the best place online to get a deal on an IPV 2, and is there any easy way to check whether it is the new or old v2?

 

[nukedawg]

Where's the best place online to get a deal on an IPV 2, and is there any easy way to check whether it is the new or old v2?

Not sure of the best place online but usually it will list it as updated version. Don't go by the product pictures though, as many still use images of the original IPV2 with the logo in the very center.

 

[atroph]

I got mine from eBay seller vapenw. Best price I could find at the time a few months ago. Quick shipping from them too.

 

[suspectK]

Well, only one fall with the updated ipv2, and the screw with the tamper-evident seal broke free from whatever it was screwed into... I'm sure the others will follow soon.

No more p4u stuff for me...

 

[Efektt]

Well, only one fall with the updated ipv2, and the screw with the tamper-evident seal broke free from whatever it was screwed into... I'm sure the others will follow soon.

No more p4u stuff for me...

Bummer. Mine finally took a dump, so I emailed my supplier and they will take it back. Its been well over 6 months. Hopefully they will give me credit for something different, that is when I get off my ... and send it to them.

 

[Saywhat]

I've had mine for 3 months, I know that doesn't seem like a while but I'm always on the move and rather clumsy. My ipv has hit the ground more times then a basket ball, I've broken multiple rdas and I'm on my third Pyrex tube for my Atlantis, but my ipv keeps going. The Finnish is wearing off but it still works fine!

 

[atroph]

Hello fellow IPV2 users! I have had mine since August and have recently been having issues with the resistance reading anywhere between normal at 1.4 ohms to 6+ ohms. Even set at 10W a 6 ohm load maxes out the IPV2 voltage setting and sends 8+ volts into my Kayfun which is not good. I decided that I have trashed too much juice due to fried builds so I decided to investigate the issue. What I did was opened up the IPV and did some simple resistance checks on the center pin and the outer ring of the 510. The center pin even though slightly wobbly never varied. The outer band on the other hand seemed to be hit or miss depending on how hard I pressed my leads against the band. I thought that it was a faulty connection between the case which is the main ground and the 510 connector since there isn't a dedicated lead to the outer portion. What I initially tried to do was solder the shell to the box which turned out to be futile as the heat required to melt the solder was getting beyond dangerous and I didn't want to risk melting the board with a torch. I figured that the 510 is threaded or pressed in maybe that isn't the problem. I then thought that there was some crud or corrosion on the threads of the Kayfun and or the 510 outer piece. What I did was gave the 510 a good bath in 91% rubbing alcohol and let it dry. Then I applied some Anti-Oxidant Joint compound that I used on house wiring (mains to the pole to the meter box). I removed the center pin completely and then added just a tiny dab to it and then screwed it all the way back in. Then I took a toothpick and lightly applied some to the Kayfun and screwed it in as far as it would go (flush with the mod). I noticed that when I put one lead of the meter on the case and the other on the KF the resistance NEVER changed while screwing in like it did earlier. I set the center pin to where it needed to be and checked the resistance on the IPV. Low and behold it was dead on!!!! Did some loosening and tightening and wiggling etc... Dead on 1.4 ohms like it should be and never changed!!!!! I then applied a little compound to the rest of my 510 attys as this stuff seems to be magic. I believe that the problem all along is that either 1. the 510 on the IPV has some corrosion/oxidation on it, or 2. the KF had some corrosion/oxidation on it, or 3. a combo of 1 and 2.

Either way this fixed my issues as I was starting to get super frustrated. It may even save a unnecessary warranty claim for others so it is worth sharing.

Here is the stuff that can be purchased at Home Depot for about $3.00:

 

[Efektt]

Doubt it was the atty as I had the same issue and so many other people do as well. I just sent mine back om friday. Surprises my vendor would take it back because I have had it for like 7 months. Hopefully all goes well and I get to avoid dealing with asmodus.

 

[atroph]

Doubt it was the atty as I had the same issue and so many other people do as well. I just sent mine back om friday. Surprises my vendor would take it back because I have had it for like 7 months. Hopefully all goes well and I get to avoid dealing with asmodus.

Yeah I agree with you. All I know is that the compound fixed my issue completely. I was sooo frustrated with the inconsistent readings and torched wicks that I decided to tear in to it. I deal with troubleshooting and repairing electronics on a daily basis and have about 20yrs experience. My initial theory was that the 510 center pin was the culprit but I soon discovered that the outer ring was the real problem. My best guess is that the dissimilar metals and exposure to ejuice caused some type of insulating barrier. I am so glad that it is working correctly so I don't have to splurge on another mod.

Edit: Looks like mech mod users have been using that compound for a while.... Some say it is snake oil, but I disagree.

 

[Efektt]

I have heard it is bad for non aluminium connections... not sure if its true but I remember reading about it.