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Phidias celebration sale

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ukeman

PV Masher
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Aug 22, 2010
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I am waiting for mine...
I have found that a 510 reg atty and something a little less than 3.7 true v, to be virtually unbeatable. That's how I plan to focus on this baby.
And I wouldn't be interested if it weren't for the feeder system; although I am convinced ahead of time that this is a well made and beautiful product..
fwiw being that it's creator is a wood worker in his own right, and fully versed in the air of aloha spirit having lived on Kaua'i, in Hawaii back in the good old days (70's), this piece definitely has a "provenance". That's an extra quality that brings real value to a piece of work; a work of art.
 

hattrick

Senior Member
Sep 13, 2010
71
15
San Diego
I got the yellow one Basilray posted on his video How to measure Ohms on Attys; he showed on a 510.
I don't know how to use it : 1. on a battery 2. on a 901 atty 3. on the power from a loaded PV ( i mean the actual power coming from PV that has a batt in it)
Battery (voltage)- Set multimeter to measure V (DC). Red wire of atomizer goes to positive of battery, black wire goes to negative of battery.
Atomizer (Ohms)- Set MM to measure Ohms (Ω). red wire to the bottom inner portion or atomizer near the center hole, black wire to threads.
 

lynleestar

Vaping Master
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Sep 13, 2010
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My word they're beautiful~! one will be mine~!! Sigh, I am a lefty though, hope it works right for me.

Heading over to ebay to make some quick cash, lol.


Made up a Sample basket of woodies for our local Vegas Vape night...

They're up for grabs come tomorrow...

DSC06444-vapebasket.jpg


Just mail me with your pick..first mail first pick-- fonosmoak@embarqmail.com

Right-on
fono

the black quarter sawn Wenge one upper right corner is "mine" it's a lefty, I'll make one for you though...
fo
 

ukeman

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Aug 22, 2010
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Kauai, Hawaii
Battery (voltage)- Set multimeter to measure V (DC). Red wire of atomizer goes to positive of battery, black wire goes to negative of battery.
Atomizer (Ohms)- Set MM to measure Ohms (Ω). red wire to the bottom inner portion or atomizer near the center hole, black wire to threads.
thanks hatrick; trustfire 14500: measures at 4.2 charged. 901: 2.3 minus resistance of the MM (.6) = 1.7 .... ! must be LR 901.
I had to find the very edge of the 901 thread for negative.

Using my Reo mini now; and i like the 901 (lr) better than a lr 510 because it's less harsh; just right actually (for me). The LR 510 Joye measures 1.5 Ohm.
- this means my preferred range on attys is 1.7 to 2.x (low 2's) with the Reo Mini. Same for the Tornado batts.
fwiw I find the altsmoke BB is lower power than the Tornado/ Reo.... (using 14500's)

Have you used AW 14500's? Is there any difference in vape?

I guess my unresolved issue is the measurement of the loaded PV... as different PVs, with similar batt/atty seem to have different vape results.
 

fonosmoak

Unregistered Supplier
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Aug 8, 2009
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The New Old West Pahrump Nevada
Hi All,

I took Saturday Afternoon off, went to the Renascence Fair with my Grandson, who had a thrilling time doing battle with nasty looking Nerf armed Barbarians.

So, those who placed orders late Friday night, Saturday, and Today will all go out tomorrow...the 11th.

I do have some more to list, and will post pictures of them tomorrow.

I too am left handed and find the righty ones to be a breeze to operate...

Although, I do find the lefty models to be a real joy---I'm pretty sure I'm bias though.

smile

Yes, I will definitely make lefty models on request--I feel your pain...

I do not wish to start doing pre-orders though, I think when you buy something you ought to be able to see it, then have it sent to you without delay...

That's why I finish them before I list them...and why I take pictures of them as well.

thanks everybody...

Best Regards
fono
 
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jimho

Ultra Member
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Dec 23, 2009
1,699
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New York
I got the yellow one Basilray posted on his video How to measure Ohms on Attys; he showed on a 510.
I don't know how to use it : 1. on a battery 2. on a 901 atty 3. on the power from a loaded PV ( i mean the actual power coming from PV that has a batt in it)

Easy on the Phid- just open it up and measure the voltage across the bottom of the connector (careful not to short it).... I'm assuming you know how to measure voltage..... Fono used heavy gague wire so you can also measure across the battery itself and be close enough....

A bit harder to do on a flashlight mod, but the body is usually ground... you can either open up an atty by carefully removing it from the sleeve (if you have one that's loose), or you can buy a female connector (or cannibalize a 510 battery) and make a test jig with some spare wire and a dead atty.... you'll have to do a bit of soldering....
The brass connector on your atty should be ground so you really only need access to the hot (positive) terminal.

one important thing to remember- never try to measure resistance (ohms) in an active circuit or across a battery- you may damage your meter. Ohm meters work by running a small amount of voltage current across the termnals and measuring the voltage drop.
 
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jimho

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Dec 23, 2009
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New York
I'd like to know that too also.


I think you are referring to removing the bridge and it's wicking material, not the wick that passes through the atty coil.

EDIT: A bit more on that- the Bridge is there to absorb juice from your filler material in the atty tip and supply it to the wick which then takes the juice through the center of the coil by capilary action. since you are feeding the atty wick from the bottom, the bridge and its wicking material are arguably not necessary....

Shouldn't effect atty performance at all- you could argue it either way-
Argument for removing it:
- technically, you don't need it because you are supplying the coil directly from the bottom.
- who needs it sitting around and getting caked up with juice that dries out anyway? less to clean etc...
- it changes the characteristics of the atty


Argument for leaving it:
1) that's the way it was designed and it does have a function to make sure the atty wick is supplied with juice...
2) some people have experienced leaking issues when removing the bridge- also you risk damaging the atty in the process..
3) it will change the characteristics of the atty....

I leave mine in place- I don't have problems with burnt tastes but I keep my attys very wet- so wet that they border on being flooded.... and i keep them clean...

I suggest that if you feel compelled to experiment, try it- and see how it works for you...

When I start rebuilding attys (soon) I'll be sure to put a few back together without the bridge, but I'm not driven to rip apart a perfectly good atty to see what it does.

I think there is more benefit to removing the bridge if you are dripping from the top than when you are bottom feeding....
 
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jimho

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Dec 23, 2009
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It's a cleaner, more consistent vape. There's fewer absorbent surfaces to collect gunk. The only drawback--aside from the risk of destroying an atty--is that in the absence of a burned taste, there's less warning that your atty is drying out. You just have to pay more attention to it.
OK- especially with the Phid, I keep my attys very wet - I have very little if any issues with burnt taste...
I think there's a good point there on less surfaces to collect gunk, but again- I'm not having a problem there.

Have you pulled an atty out from the bottom to see how they are made? I don't see how it would be different using the Phid - the same rules about paying attention would apply - the big difference between dripping from the top and the bottom is that with bottom dripping, all of your juice is going exactly where you want it - no need to wait for it to soak down from the bridge...I guess if anything you'd simply have less priming to do.
 
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