Phidias celebration sale

[fonosmoak]

Regards,

I'm not sure what happened, only that I'll be able to fix it...

I'm pretty sure it wasn't a short, as a burnt / collapsed spring was not mentioned...

I think it's great that the word is out, and folks are aware that some adapters may cause short circuits.

Over and above that, that short circuits are to be avoided at all cost...

To Review:

screw your atty into your adapter first, look at the other / 510 end, if you see the center piece sticks out more than just a fraction be suspicious...

Gently screw the adapter in until you feel it "just" bottom out, tap the switch, does it fire?

If so, look to see if there is still space between the the adapters base and the rim of your 510 connector there should be none, or no more than the width of a human hair...

If there is a 1/16 of an inch of space there, that's way too much.

you have a bad adapter and a potential short , either have it fixed or send it back to Satan.

The center pole of a 510 connector rides of a thin cushion of rubber, some flex is required to accommodate solid contact, crush this cushion and you cause a dead short.

On the Phidias I've never seen a case where a short circuit did not instantly copllase the battery contact's spring...and stop the short / break the circuit before the batteries protection was activated...

That's impressive, love that spring...

Right on

Regards
fono

I think that's why he's so adamant about being careful with adapters. That same heavy gauge wiring and good switch allows plenty of current through. My guess is that the dry burn pretty much wore out the core enough so that it shorted. The damage you saw was from the short. And a bad adapter will short and cause just as much damage. But I'm sure yours will be repaired and on its way back to you quickly.

 

[PoliticallyIncorrect]

Seems like the adapter silliness could be avoided if someone were to offer the option of a 910 connector. Just (as they say) sayin'.

 

[jcamacho]

I learned my lesson also, tried using an 801 adapter and my spring collapsed. Too bad, I just wonder why? I use adapters all the time with other mods without problems.

 

[stashbldr]

I wasnt using an adaptor, it was a 510 atomizer screwed directly into the Phidias. My spring didnt collapse, I put several other batteries in and out of it, thinking maybe my battery was dead, the spring was intact, just like it always had been. Because of the dry burn I was doing I think I melted something, I do tend to get a little carried away when I do a dry burn and the atty was hot-hot-hot. If the atty was so hot then maybe that caused the wire inside to come lose, it's almost as if the black solder stuff melted that the wire was attached to.

 

[PoliticallyIncorrect]

Solder melts at almost 400 degrees. Your atty may have been hot, but not that hot.

The black solder stuff you're talking about must be the epoxy.

 

[stashbldr]

The black solder stuff you're talking about must be the epoxy.

Yes, that's what it was .. epoxy .. didnt know the name for it til you said it. The wire that came lose came out of the "epoxy". I think that epoxy got too hot and that's why the wire came out?

Fono will have it on Monday, I sent it priority. Shame on me for not taking a picture of it, but it happened about an hour before my mailman was coming. I immediately emailed Fono, he emailed me back right away and so I quickly packaged the dead soldier up and sent him on his way back to his Daddy.

 

[jimho]

Yes, that's what it was .. epoxy .. didnt know the name for it til you said it. The wire that came lose came out of the "epoxy". I think that epoxy got too hot and that's why the wire came out?

Fono will have it on Monday, I sent it priority. Shame on me for not taking a picture of it, but it happened about an hour before my mailman was coming. I immediately emailed Fono, he emailed me back right away and so I quickly packaged the dead soldier up and sent him on his way back to his Daddy.

The blob of epoxy by the button? if so, I doubt it was heat from the atty that did it... might have been a bad connection to the switch causing it to heat up- or some juice got in there.. I'm sure fono will let you know....

 

[ukeman]

On a lighter note, I did manage to pull off a 2 handed beer sip...
I love lying horizontally see, fully conscious, and I had one hand on the button side and one on the plunger side and voila..
I guess I'd call it more of a lazy way of playing the alto sax.

btw I am using a TW 510 (2.1 Ohm) that has a shiny brass colored collar at the bottom. It has leaked from the bottom on occasion of overpumping; very rarely. I think it's a good quality atty though and am very happy with it. If Something ever happens to trash it, I have some Ikenvape 2.0 LR's to try. Other than that, i'd try one of the other LR's that have higher resistance than the Joye LR's.
I always look in the box for any sign of leaking but nothing has gotten in there.

 

[ukeman]

OOps I 'd better mention that the leak may have been caused by a loosened atty actually.... you know, not screwed in snug... so I don't know for sure if it actually leaked on it's own... up to now I've had a feeling it didn't leak at all anyhow.

 

[jimho]

OK- here's the deal-

I cannibalized a dead atty tonight to make a test jig-
It took me about an hour to do the first one, I'm sure I can do another one allot bit faster....

Here's how I did it....
1) Boiled the atty for about 15 minutes to soften it up, then used a dead 510 battery to hold it while I pulled on the sleeve till it came off... ,
2) I clipped the leads and tossed the atty guts but kept the threaded base
3) pushed the centerpost out with a punch .... came out with very little force
4) on the centerpost, I soldered an 18 gauge solid coper wire lead where the old original 24 (or 26 gage) wire was... (it's a pain in the you know what to get it positioned just right)- this is where you have to be careful to make sure your wire won't contact the inner surface of the base ring when you replace it...
5) soldered an 18 gage solid coper wire lead to the outside of the base ring (where the ridges are- I did this to avoid any possible short between the centerpost and the base.
6) reinstalled the centerpost pulling the wire first and then pushing the post through the bottom.
7) Ran the open ends of the leads to a breadboard.
8) Put 4 10 Ohm 10 Watt resistors in parallel across the circuit - to get 2.5 Ohms resistance- same as a standard atty but with the ability to handle about 40 watts if I wanted to....
9) confirmed the resistance at the atty threads... made sure there were no shorts, clipped my meter across one of the resistors and reconfirmed 2.5 ohms, then switched it over to DC Volts...


________________

Testing-
For the Phidias, I removed the juice bottle to avoid any risk of the needle touching the center post or my newly soldered wire- even if it did, it wouldn't really be a problem but why go there.... Popped in a freshly charged battery screwed in the atty base from my test jig and pressed the button.. I watched the voltage drop down to where it stabilized at 3.75 Volts...
I unscrewed the Phidias, moved the battery to my Prodigy V3 and screwed the V3 into the jig... pressed the button and held it for 5 seconds......
Voltage under load was (drum roll)...
as expected, 3.75V....

I went back and forth a few times.. no difference...


There ya have it - proven on paper and on my meter.
The difference is not in the wiring- at least for me...


Three thoughts- PM me for either...
1) if you want me to test your old 3.7 mod against the Phid, I'll be happy to do it for you- lmk and you can send it to me and I'll send it back (you pay the postage)....

2) If you are comfortable with a volt meter and basic electronics and electricity, but really bad at soldering, If you want me to build you a test jig like this, I'll be happy to build a few for you guys so we can get some more data - say 10? I'll put a shopping list together for you- you can buy everything you need (breadboard and resistors) for about $15...

3) if you are comfortable with a soldering iron and around electronics, what are you waiting for? just watch the lead off the centerpost and make sure you don't short it to the base...

 

[Drumonron]

fono,

I received the all bubinga w/padauk inlays Phidias Woodimus Feedimus. On Saturday @ about 10am it was delivered and signed for. Been vaping it all day and all night. I love your woodworking skills and it's a very beautiful design. My only wish is that the button was more dependable....too many misfires(same problem I had with this model of a switch on the BB) but when she fires(she fires more times than not)...excellent vape...probably the most powerful vape yet...don't know why but this 3.7 vape seems more powerful...had to unscrew the LR510 and put in the regular 510.

I can't stop looking at this thing, it has excellent hand too! At first when I was learning the intricacies of the juice button, I did end up flooding the atty(it was new and...well...I think it was more primer than juice) after I learned the method of juicing by removing the atty and sacrificing some juice to see the flow volume vs pressure on the button, I was good to go and haven't seen another leak. Definitely pleasantly surprised.

After I committed to buying it and sent the money I caught a bit of another forum dialog which made me question your approach to handling customers but you really came through for me and it's nice to be proven wrong.

I gotta say...when I first filled my bottle and saw the simplicity in design of the feed system, I had my doubts as to how it would and if it would work as I had hoped but...I do have to say...the gravity feed does have it's merits...I've never used such a small amount of juice.

Thanks...sorry for rambling....oh, and I love the following on my Phidias and I'll use your quote as I could not put it any more eloquently:

"I noticed that the number one had what we wood guys call shake on its back...

This looks like a crack, but what it is, is evidence of a storm 50 60 years ago...and the tree flexing causing this shake grain...

It does not go through to the inside nor is it likely to grow...it's been that way since it was young

Anyway, if you don't care for it I'll understand...and I'll make you another...

It's a pretty cool thing though, if you think about it..history right there on your Phid, it was something I thought I should explain"

Love the shake...it gives my Phidias character that is unmatched.

Thank you and if you ever wanted to use the button that is in the Kaji boxes(FWIW, if I knew the model of the switch I would have omitted the vendor name)...I'd love you for it!

Just sayin' .... that button hasn't failed to fire for me yet.

Lovin' the Phid tho and I'll be keeping my eyes on your future creations.

PS. Love the kill mechanism - ingenious my friend.

 

[lawnman3]

very well said my friend ... very well said ...it shure aint no juice box thats for shure ... but a much better built work of art ... wood art that is ...

keep up the great wood work fono ....

lawnman3...out ...

 

[fonosmoak]

Thanks for the review Drumonron,

I'm really surprised to hear the switch seems iffy to you. It's a much higher rated switch than other folks use.

Try tapping on it to loosen it up, if it still seems iffy send it back to me, we cannot have that sort of thing.

I build my units for folks to use to get off tobacco, and then to enjoy as what vaping truly is: a clear upgrade to smoking cigs...

A thing like a sticky power button is just the sort of thing that would turn off a new vaper...

cigs work when you light them---and those first few days when switching to vape are critical.

that switch is the key to satisfying and converting the cig addicted

Send it back if the switch does not improve, it'll be only the second bad switch in the history of the Phidias...

Jimho having the very first iffy switch ever....

Thanks
fono

 

[fonosmoak]

Here's the latest... the most recent update 10-24-10

the Last of my reserve of Phidias in a Basket...

1--X--5--7--X
X--X--X--X--X

If they're Xed out they are already sold..


Some of these designs will be retired...

The ones on both ends (top and bottom) and in the center column top and bottom will be retired.

Left end top and bottom:1. and 2. are Babinga Chassis and end caps with Padauk inlays. These are a real favorite of mine, but alas, low in contrast.

Center Row top and bottom; #5 and 6 are Purple Heart chassis with Paduak inlays and caps--(the inaugural design) time for a change.

Far Right Top and Bottom #9. and 10 are Babinga Chassis with Purple Heart inlays and end caps...These are also a favorite of mine, they are however very low contrast--sneaky cool.

If you want something on the rare side these would be the ones to pick...
------------------------------


Number 3. (the top of the second column from the left) Figured Lacewood with Purple Heart appointments.

Below it # 4. is a fine looking Plain sliced African Wenge with Paduak appointments.

The Remaining column, fourth from the left, #7. and 8. are Figured Lacewood chassis and end caps with Birdseye Maple inlays...very cool.

This is the last of my stock on hand---I'll be starting a new production run soon.

If there are any requests, either for Lefty units or special wood combos now would be the time to tell me about it...

Thank You All
Best Regards
fono

To make a choice and get the payment info mail: fonosmoak@embarqmail.com

138.05 complete unit only
145 with extras kit:

Extras Kit includes:

One extra feed bottle and tube set up.
One 3ml. bottle of Mineral Oil to keep it like new--don't vape it. smile
Two spare rare Earth Magnets--for the cover in case you lose your original one.
Two insulation wafers--this is your fail safe off switch, it goes between the + battery contact and the battery---The wafer fits easily inside your Phidias--it's a good thing.

Regards
fono

 

[Drumonron]

Here's the latest... the most recent update 10-24-10

the Last of my reserve of Phidias in a Basket...

1--X--5--7--X
X--X--X--X--X

If they're Xed out they are already sold..


Some of these designs will be retired...

The ones on both ends (top and bottom) and in the center column top and bottom will be retired.

Left end top and bottom:1. and 2. are Babinga Chassis and end caps with Padauk inlays. These are a real favorite of mine, but alas, low in contrast.

Center Row top and bottom; #5 and 6 are Purple Heart chassis with Paduak inlays and caps--(the inaugural design) time for a change.

Far Right Top and Bottom #9. and 10 are Babinga Chassis with Purple Heart inlays and end caps...These are also a favorite of mine, they are however very low contrast--sneaky cool.

If you want something on the rare side these would be the ones to pick...
------------------------------


Number 3. (the top of the second column from the left) Figured Lacewood with Purple Heart appointments.

Below it # 4. is a fine looking Plain sliced African Wenge with Paduak appointments.

The Remaining column, fourth from the left, #7. and 8. are Figured Lacewood chassis and end caps with Birdseye Maple inlays...very cool.

This is the last of my stock on hand---I'll be starting a new production run soon.

If there are any requests, either for Lefty units or special wood combos now would be the time to tell me about it...

Thank You All
Best Regards
fono

To make a choice and get the payment info mail: fonosmoak@embarqmail.com

138.05 complete unit only
145 with extras kit:

Extras Kit includes:

One extra feed bottle and tube set up.
One 3ml. bottle of Mineral Oil to keep it like new--don't vape it. smile
Two spare rare Earth Magnets--for the cover in case you lose your original one.
Two insulation wafers--this is your fail safe off switch, it goes between the + battery contact and the battery---The wafer fits easily inside your Phidias--it's a good thing.

Regards
fono

I'll say first hand...I have number one....it's a beauty and it gets more beautiful the more my hand's oils bathe it...the grain comes out in detail. Love the wenge and lacewood, also.

 

[SNM]

Placed my order and now the wate begins.. This will be my third juice feeder mod first was carlos Juice box = total POS had two defective ones back to back and on the second one he seemed to drop off the face of the planet. Then the wetbox from nhaler that lasted three weeks and the silicone around the adaptor came lose and shorted something out I really hope the third one is the charm

Transaction ID :5CK18061RD963374X
I cant wate to get her in my hands ....

 

[ukeman]

Placed my order and now the wate begins.. This will be my third juice feeder mod first was carlos Juice box = total POS had two defective ones back to back and on the second one he seemed to drop off the face of the planet. Then the wetbox from nhaler that lasted three weeks and the silicone around the adaptor came lose and shorted something out I really hope the third one is the charm

Transaction ID :5CK18061RD963374X
I cant wate to get her in my hands ....

My advice; Put your go-to ejuice into it because once you get the juice into the atty (1.5 to 2.0 Ohms, whichever is your choice), and all systems go, it WILL BE your "go-to" PV... congrats.

 

[ukeman]

Question for the technoobs and techsavvies: Is it good to have back-up batt chargers ?
I know how important it is to have power...
What is a great charger to have for 18650 batts?
I have the Trustfire multi-functional charger that seems to do a good job with the 18650's and 14500's.. but the 18650's just fit and sometimes the light wavers green and need to swivel the batts around to get the red on.

 

[Drumonron]

Question for the technoobs and techsavvies: Is it good to have back-up batt chargers ?
I know how important it is to have power...
What is a great charger to have for 18650 batts?
I have the Trustfire multi-functional charger that seems to do a good job with the 18650's and 14500's.. but the 18650's just fit and sometimes the light wavers green and need to swivel the batts around to get the red on.

Hmmm...back up battery charger? That's a good thought...I may have to pick one up too, didn't think of that.

 

[BadThad]

Question for the technoobs and techsavvies: Is it good to have back-up batt chargers ?
I know how important it is to have power...
What is a great charger to have for 18650 batts?
I have the Trustfire multi-functional charger that seems to do a good job with the 18650's and 14500's.. but the 18650's just fit and sometimes the light wavers green and need to swivel the batts around to get the red on.

I have a spare along with three 18650's to make sure I never fail. No way I'm going back to analogs now, I actually hate them. LOL I had a good test this weekend with over 6 hours of driving....the Phi just kept going and going all day with me chain vaping. I LOVE THE PHIDIAS!