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Phiniac Pyrex Tanks… Unique, Rugged & Beautiful!

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Speedgoat

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So, Ive ran into my first tank problem. Massively flooded carto. It was working great till I topped off the tank. Im thinking that I must have nicked a o-ring and now its getting air? I was using the tank tool for doing this, so maybe the punch carto did it while sliding past the o-ring? Im waiting till the kids go to bed before I replace the o-rings, so I figured it would throw it out there and see what everyone thinks! Thanks.
 

*~Peace~*

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I don't think it is the O ring myself and could be when you filled it maybe some got in the top?
So, Ive ran into my first tank problem. Massively flooded carto. It was working great till I topped off the tank. Im thinking that I must have nicked a o-ring and now its getting air? I was using the tank tool for doing this, so maybe the punch carto did it while sliding past the o-ring? Im waiting till the kids go to bed before I replace the o-rings, so I figured it would throw it out there and see what everyone thinks! Thanks.
 

Speedgoat

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I was using the tank tool, it seals the top of the carto so nothing can get in there. Is it possible the carto is getting gunked up causing it to draw harder, making it pull in more juice then is getting vaped? Ive had this carto in for a few days (3-4). Was thinking of changing it right away when I do the o-rings.
 

pwyll

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So, Ive ran into my first tank problem. Massively flooded carto. It was working great till I topped off the tank. Im thinking that I must have nicked a o-ring and now its getting air? I was using the tank tool for doing this, so maybe the punch carto did it while sliding past the o-ring? Im waiting till the kids go to bed before I replace the o-rings, so I figured it would throw it out there and see what everyone thinks! Thanks.

Something to keep in mind is that when you refill the tank, sliding the carto back into place always (for me anyway) seems to create enough pressure to force juice into the carto no matter what I do about it--sometimes it's just a little tighter/gurgly, sometimes it's full-blown flooding--but I usually have to give a quick blow through the carto (like you're clearing it out) before it works quite right after a refill.

I was using the tank tool, it seals the top of the carto so nothing can get in there. Is it possible the carto is getting gunked up causing it to draw harder, making it pull in more juice then is getting vaped? Ive had this carto in for a few days (3-4). Was thinking of changing it right away when I do the o-rings.

That's possible too. If it's gunked up, a quick blow-out should fix it.

Got everything switched out and it seems to be working great now! Hope its still good in the morning! I noticed with the new carto the drags are a lot easier and smoother. Im hoping it was just clogged up and creating pressure in the tank or something. All part of the learning curve!

In my experience a carto should last longer than that in a tank, but some cartos are not as good as others (even from the same batch). My first thought was possibly having the holes punched too big, but if you've been using it for a couple days that issue should have shown up sooner. If you still have the old carto, give it a go without the tank. If it clears up before getting dry then it was probably gunked up as you suspected. If a burnt taste starts seeping in before, or as, the draw loosens back up then it was probably going bad anyway...
 

pwyll

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Got the tank today. Having a hard time figureing out which end is the TOP though!!! The sandblasting is beautiful!! What's a good way to punch carto's by the way? I DO have a Dremel with the small bits. Suggestions?

If the design does not have a top to it then the tank wouldn't have a specific top or bottom either ;)

Saddle valve has always worked well for me, but the Siam punch Phiniac sells works even better. I stopped using a dremel because with drill bits or round sanding/carving bits it was hard to hold the carto still while "drilling" and while using a disk to cut a slot is easier it is almost impossible to clean up the rough edges effectively. (Plenty of people swear by the dremel, though, so it's probably just me).
 

pwyll

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Guess I better get my .... over to Lowes and get a Saddle Valve then :0) thanks Pwyll

No problem. The one I got from Lowes came with a rubber pad for the bottom part--I ended up gluing mine in place so the carto never actually touched a metal part of the valve (except the point of the screw, of course). Most things I've seen haven't mentioned it and a lot of people talk about the saddle valves deforming the cartos, but using the rubber pads I've tightened both screws as tight as they'll go (make sure they're even) and punching without deforming the carto any more than punch I've seen.
 

tmcase

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Guess I better get my .... over to Lowes and get a Saddle Valve then :0) thanks Pwyll

This is just my opinion but the saddle valve was a PITA for me. It isn't very user friendly. The main reason is you can't see the mark on the carto where the punch is going to punch. The Siam carto punch is a lot easier to use and there are several others out there that are a lot easier than the saddle valve also. Just my 2 cents.
 

Dusty_D

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Got the tank today. Having a hard time figureing out which end is the TOP though!!! The sandblasting is beautiful!! What's a good way to punch carto's by the way? I DO have a Dremel with the small bits. Suggestions?

If you have a dremel, go with the cutoff tool and slot the carto. Save yourself a LOT of grief. It's the only thing that worked for me. I had damned near given up on Tanks until I slotted.
 

moorea

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So we have some new handblowns going up on the site in the next few days as soon as I photograph them and add them to the store. We have several new handblown designs including handblown kokopelli's as well as the one in the photos. Please share your thoughts as we are thinking of adding a an entire 3D section to the site. I have some thoughts on it, but I am interested in what others have to say!

bumble-bee.jpg


bumble-bee2.jpg


bumble-bee3.jpg


bumble-bee4.jpg
 
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