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<blockquote data-quote="Electrodave" data-source="post: 21876573" data-attributes="member: 343811">Pine is very resonant, and I like to take advantage of that.&nbsp; The JM style bridge takes better advantage of this than either a Fender style hardtail bridge or a TOM.&nbsp; I flatten the heads of the adjustment posts so the bridge doesn&#039;t rock.&nbsp; The slender legs of the JM style bridge transfer vibration with a minimal amount of damping.Another advantage is the fact that the JM bridge can be set to any radius, in this case 9.5&quot;.&nbsp; TOM bridges usually have a fixed radius, usually 12&quot; or 16&quot;.&nbsp; This particular bridge is new old stock from Fender Japan.&nbsp; The late 80&#039;s.&nbsp; The good stuff.I&#039;ve used this sort of setup before with either trapeze or dobro style tailpieces&nbsp; Needs a bone nut to tame it a bit.&nbsp; In this case, I&#039;m using a brass nut. Tons of twang!&nbsp; Two Lace Sensors guarantee tons of tone!</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Electrodave, post: 21876573, member: 343811"] Pine is very resonant, and I like to take advantage of that. The JM style bridge takes better advantage of this than either a Fender style hardtail bridge or a TOM. I flatten the heads of the adjustment posts so the bridge doesn't rock. The slender legs of the JM style bridge transfer vibration with a minimal amount of damping. Another advantage is the fact that the JM bridge can be set to any radius, in this case 9.5". TOM bridges usually have a fixed radius, usually 12" or 16". This particular bridge is new old stock from Fender Japan. The late 80's. The good stuff. I've used this sort of setup before with either trapeze or dobro style tailpieces Needs a bone nut to tame it a bit. In this case, I'm using a brass nut. Tons of twang! Two Lace Sensors guarantee tons of tone! [/QUOTE]

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