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<blockquote data-quote="Spydro" data-source="post: 22115117" data-attributes="member: 132438">&#039;As needed&#039; isn&#039;t much help I guess, but in time you will know when based on what your usage is.&nbsp; When the contacts get a build up of carbon you&#039;ll notice the difference.&nbsp; I use cloth medical tape strips folded over on themselves sticky side to sticky side with a drop of DeoxIT D100L to clean all the contacts.&nbsp; The tape is textured to help scrub it off.&nbsp; Then I apply DeoxIT Gold G100L to help protect all of them.&nbsp; IOW I also clean the battery positive contact and the negative contact (hot spring) with a dab of Gold on them to finish.&nbsp; You can use the same treatment on your battery terminals as well to clean/protect them and to improve conductivity.&nbsp;&nbsp; I also clean the inside of the Reo by just brushing out any dust/dirt/etc that may have collected in it.&nbsp; Slotted metal Reo&#039;s and the regular Reos with slotted doors are more likely to need that more often than those with solid doors.&nbsp; I do not get liquid leaks inside of any of my Reos, but it you do clean it up instead of waiting until you do a full pit stop on it (fresh liquid is much easier to clean up than old that has become a sticky mess).&nbsp;&nbsp; I disagree with Robert on the need to wash Reo&#039;s under running water or with soapy water.&nbsp; If you keep them reasonably clean a pit stop only takes two of three minutes and you will never need to wash them.Here is a Robert O&#039;Neil video about Rep P67 maintenance.&nbsp; He uses alcohol to clean contacts instead of the D100L I use (just personal choice). It also goes into some of the beyond normal basic pit stop maintenance on how to disassemble to replace/align parts and reassemble.There are a lot of other tricks to use on Reo&#039;s, and many updates and up grades for them as well... but far to many of them to list.&nbsp;&nbsp; Search the Reo archives on ECF to see if they may still have those threads that are full of use full information.[MEDIA=youtube]f6iUEZMmUss[/MEDIA]</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Spydro, post: 22115117, member: 132438"] 'As needed' isn't much help I guess, but in time you will know when based on what your usage is. When the contacts get a build up of carbon you'll notice the difference. I use cloth medical tape strips folded over on themselves sticky side to sticky side with a drop of DeoxIT D100L to clean all the contacts. The tape is textured to help scrub it off. Then I apply DeoxIT Gold G100L to help protect all of them. IOW I also clean the battery positive contact and the negative contact (hot spring) with a dab of Gold on them to finish. You can use the same treatment on your battery terminals as well to clean/protect them and to improve conductivity. I also clean the inside of the Reo by just brushing out any dust/dirt/etc that may have collected in it. Slotted metal Reo's and the regular Reos with slotted doors are more likely to need that more often than those with solid doors. I do not get liquid leaks inside of any of my Reos, but it you do clean it up instead of waiting until you do a full pit stop on it (fresh liquid is much easier to clean up than old that has become a sticky mess). I disagree with Robert on the need to wash Reo's under running water or with soapy water. If you keep them reasonably clean a pit stop only takes two of three minutes and you will never need to wash them. Here is a Robert O'Neil video about Rep P67 maintenance. He uses alcohol to clean contacts instead of the D100L I use (just personal choice). It also goes into some of the beyond normal basic pit stop maintenance on how to disassemble to replace/align parts and reassemble. There are a lot of other tricks to use on Reo's, and many updates and up grades for them as well... but far to many of them to list. Search the Reo archives on ECF to see if they may still have those threads that are full of use full information. [MEDIA=youtube]f6iUEZMmUss[/MEDIA] [/QUOTE]

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