pins for the DNA 12?

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KeithB

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I just ordered the dna 12 from Evolvapor.com this morning.

I'd like to add some pins to the board so I can swap it between mods (eventually) but the amount and variety of connectors is staggering. Part of my problem is I'm really not sure what it is I'm searching for. This is my starting point; I know it's rated a little low for the max current input on the dna but I don't plan on using anything LR with it. Is this appropriate or are there better options? I'd prefer something low profile but it's not essential.
 

KeithB

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Thanks for the response.

Are you talking about the battery rating being low? This may help....proper batts are essential for safety reasons....

http://evolvapor.com/wp-content/uploads/dna12.pdf

The rating of the pins ya are looking at is 4 amps at 250 volts....will be fine....

I was talking about the max 4.5 amp current in rating on the DNA board. I'll be using IMR batteries, 18650 or larger, so I think I'll be fine on the load on the batteries. If I go with the 18650 to start, I'll be using either AW or Panasonic batteries. I'd like to try a 26650 mod but don't know enough about the quality of the batteries manufactured in that size to feel comfortable with that yet.

I'd been led to believe that the amps rating and the voltage rating are two completely separate ratings and that even if you're operating at 6V on a device rated for 250V, you're still limited to the 4A rating. I may be mistaken about that tho. With attys around 2.5 ohms and cartos around 3 ohms running about 8 watts, I don't think I'll be driving the DNA to it's limits so I think these look suitable for me. I'm not sure they'd work as well for someone stacking boards for even higher wattages, but that's someone else's mod to build.

Eventually I'd like to have a copper pipe mod with the DNA inside; I'm still pondering how I'd want to do that one.

My first mod for this will likely be yet another Altoids tin, but I'll be keeping my eyes open for some other interesting enclosure.
 
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Java_Az

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Thanks for the response.
I'd been led to believe that the amps rating and the voltage rating are two completely separate ratings and that even if you're operating at 6V on a device rated for 250V, you're still limited to the 4A rating.
.

4 amps at 250 volts is insaney hotter then 4 amps @ 6 volts. 6 volts 4 amps = 24 watts .....250 volts 4 amps = 1000 watts. amps and volts ratings are not separate but need to be looked at together. This is why they are both on ratings. you wont see just a 4 amp switch.There is always a voltage along with it. a 12 volt 4 amps switch is not the same as a 48 volt 4 amp switch.
 

Java_Az

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Yep....4.5 amp input max at 4.3 volts......that would be a fully charged 3.7 volt batt....at 3.7 volts the input amp would be 3.0 amps....

boost circuits are the opposite. The lower the input voltage the more amps it requires to boost. You will see the highest input amps just before the battery needs to be recharged.
 

KeithB

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Yes, I think I'll be using the pins because I have ideas for several mods right now, but limited funding. My plan is to keep it simple at first, likely a box mod of some type, then going more ambitious with something a little less traditional; I haven't built a tube mod yet so that's a possibility. I'd like for it to be easy to just swap out the DNA board from one mod to another until I get the funds to do more.
 

breaktru

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These are the type that Brandon from Evolv use: Solderless Headers - 10-pin Straight - SparkFun Electronics
10527-01.jpg
09280-1.jpg

Arduino Stackable Header - 6 Pin - SparkFun Electronics
 
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