WillyB, Yeah, I've read Jeffs whole thread on the Fog Log and seen his diagram. I'm just not sure that I completely understand it yet. I do have questions such as what is the pos. terminal retainer, what material to use for the plastic ring, is the outside of the connecter wired to the top cap and where do you get the spring for the neg. connection? I'm sorry if I seem stupid... correction, I'm sorry THAT I seem stupid but I promise that the dumb questions won't be coming for long. I appreciate the help alot.
Don't over think it. My pos connector is just epoxied corrugated cardboard and a screw with 2 washers and 2 nuts. Any non conducting material will work, wood, plastic, someone used a piece of garden hose. All you have to do is keep it centered and insulated from the tube. For a spring I used a small, about 11mm one from an old 2XAA box. You don't need a lot of pressure, it doesn't have to be very strong. On the flashlight forums there have been reports of the end springs damaging the bottom PCB protection circuit. Maybe this pic will help.
Bad pic but here's the pos plate/connector.
I just mashed 3 pieces of corrugated cardboard and epoxied then together. I drilled a hole inserted the screw, washers (one on each side), nut, then checked it into a drill, using sandpaper to fine tune the fit. I just double nutted the wire, no solder.
A pic of the end cap.
I soldered in the the whole assembly. Steel wool the inside of the cap. It will take quite a while to get things hot enough for the solder to flow. Not shown I also popped in a 3/8" neoprene washer, not really needed though. I just drilled one vent hole in the cap first.
When you drill your hole for the batt end/atty connector a vice works real good to get a tight press fit, then you won't need a ground wire. Just one wire (longer and stranded) from the switch to the center post of your connector is all that is needed, I only have 3 solder connections. Drill your hole slightly under size. Later you will further reinforce it with some gobs of epoxy from the inside. I always let my 5 min epoxy sit a while so it isn't as runny when I apply it.
When you start your assembly let your tube run long, you can trim it later. A pair of LiPo's run a little longer than the 67mm 18650.
Slide your pos terminal into position and use some epoxy. After I put it all together and checked continuity/operation I then added another layer on top of the positive connector to seal and strengthen the whole thing. I also slopped on a little liquid tape (handy stuff) inside as the switch connectors are close to the tube, With the switch I used I had to bend them down.
The caps are just press fit on. The bottom cap works fine that way, if it loosens up I could just bash the tube a bit or add a small set screw. I just used a few wraps of computer paper to make a battery sleeve.
There's a lot of ways to do it, mine works just fine. And if you are a Joye 510 ecig user you'll be in for a treat as the 18650 doesn't just last longer it hits harder too. Figure about 2 more watts.
Mine's longer than it has to be, but it's fine.
