First helloo everyone I am very new to vaping but have a itaste clk 1280 with a mini protank 3 and have just upgraded to a mvp 2.0 with a nautilus mini tank which I got because of everyone's raving reviews but I got more vapour and throat hit from the clk with the protank, not sure if I'm right but the clk only goes up to 5 watts and mvp starts at 6 but the mvp at 6 watts the vapour is almost non existent regales of airflow hole setting, I figure I must be doing something wrong, both same juice but 1.5 coil in protank and 1.8 in nautilus, sorry for the long post but very dissapointed and confused as mvp has to be set to 11 watts to even level the clk thanks in advance
Please help mvp + nautilus
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I believe what you are experiencing is Ohm's Law.
Using normal resistance coils (1.0 - 3.0 ohm), to get a similar vaping experience between two different ohms, the higher resistance coil (your 1.8 ohm in the Nautilus) will generally require a little more voltage/wattage than the lower resistance coil (the 1.5 ohm in the Protank). Low resistance coils allow more electrons to the coil to produce heat faster and hotter (and use more amps from the battery). Higher resistance coils restrict the amount of electrons to the coil, so it takes longer to heat up, and requires more voltage/wattage (yet use less amps from the battery).
The above relationship changes when doing sub-ohm coils (less than 1.0 ohm), which require way more power than normal resistance coils.
Airflow is important. So is the wicking material. My guess is the Nautilus needs the wick to be primed before vaping, and also needs more voltage. Every juice attachment on the market will have its own quirks and caveats concerning optimum performance. You'll just need to learn how to tweek them to your liking.
Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
Using normal resistance coils (1.0 - 3.0 ohm), to get a similar vaping experience between two different ohms, the higher resistance coil (your 1.8 ohm in the Nautilus) will generally require a little more voltage/wattage than the lower resistance coil (the 1.5 ohm in the Protank). Low resistance coils allow more electrons to the coil to produce heat faster and hotter (and use more amps from the battery). Higher resistance coils restrict the amount of electrons to the coil, so it takes longer to heat up, and requires more voltage/wattage (yet use less amps from the battery).
The above relationship changes when doing sub-ohm coils (less than 1.0 ohm), which require way more power than normal resistance coils.
Airflow is important. So is the wicking material. My guess is the Nautilus needs the wick to be primed before vaping, and also needs more voltage. Every juice attachment on the market will have its own quirks and caveats concerning optimum performance. You'll just need to learn how to tweek them to your liking.
Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
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Hi Tim.
The CLK is a variable voltage battery, it will be able to offer 3.5, 3.8, 4.0, 4.3, 4.5, 4.8, 5.0 VOLTS. It maxes out at 15 watts (apparently).
The MVP offers
Variable Voltage: voltage can be adjusted from 3.3 – 5.0 volts in .1 volt increments.
VariableWattage: Wattage can be adjusted from 6.0 – 11.0 W in .5 watts increments.
So, 5 volts on the CLK is totally different to 6 watts on the MVP.
IF the CLK genuinely goes to 15 watts, then it will hands down beat the MVP which goes to 11 watts.
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If you set you CLK to 5 volts, it will beat the MVP by a comfortable margin. Old tech vs New tech.
The CLK is a variable voltage battery, it will be able to offer 3.5, 3.8, 4.0, 4.3, 4.5, 4.8, 5.0 VOLTS. It maxes out at 15 watts (apparently).
The MVP offers
Variable Voltage: voltage can be adjusted from 3.3 – 5.0 volts in .1 volt increments.
VariableWattage: Wattage can be adjusted from 6.0 – 11.0 W in .5 watts increments.
So, 5 volts on the CLK is totally different to 6 watts on the MVP.
IF the CLK genuinely goes to 15 watts, then it will hands down beat the MVP which goes to 11 watts.
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If you set you CLK to 5 volts, it will beat the MVP by a comfortable margin. Old tech vs New tech.
Need to know which MVP the OP actually has. There are the MVP1, MVP2, and MVP3 (which comes in 20 and 30 watt versions).
To some folks 8 watts is perfect for the nautilus to others 10, 12, 15, 18 may be be their sweet spot.
If you like vaping your nautilus at more than 11w the 11w max mvp model aint gonna do it.
If you own one of the more powerful models - Vape to taste not to a number.
If you like vaping your nautilus at more than 11w the 11w max mvp model aint gonna do it.
If you own one of the more powerful models - Vape to taste not to a number.
Thankyou for all of your replies can't believe I have been so stupid I thought and had heard it would be a massive upgrade and turned out to be a downgrade, it is the mvp 2.0, really hope I'm able to change for a better model as I only bought it for more power
Tim, you can also put the Nautilus Mini on the CLK 1280. I've been running that combo for a few months, and despite experimenting with all kinds of different equipment, the CLK 1280 + Nautilus Mini combo has been the one I use the most.
MVP 20w or 30w, Istick 30w or 50w the choices are almost endless.
Moar cloudz is usually a processes of finding & using a more efficient delivery device that suits your vaping preferences.
Moar cloudz is usually a processes of finding & using a more efficient delivery device that suits your vaping preferences.
Mini Protank 3 to a Nautilus Mini is far from an upgrade.
I started out with a nautilus also and you had it right the first time. The mini protank 3 is far superior for vapor quality.
The nautilus, no matter what you do will leave you with a mouth full of uncooked liquid. I used it for 3 months and as soon as I picked up a Kanger T3'D I noticed the difference in vapor right away. The nautilus has a coarse mist that condenses in your mouth along with filling up the center tube on the tank with unburnt eliquid.
You can not go from a Kanger to a Nautilus, you'll hate it.
Nautilus is a horrid tank.
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I agree with this. In theory, the CLK should offer more power for the Mini Nautilus, if it's more power your need.
Quite bold statements there. Going from Kanger mPT3/ Evod2 /T3D to Mini Nautilus seems to suit a lot of people.... they can't all be wrong.
What battery were you using it on?
Really? I have two Nautilus tanks and a mini. Best non-sub tanks I've used.
If you can still exchange but liked the design of the MVP, the MVP 20W is more powerful and still around the same price. I use a Nautilus Mini on mine and get best results between 13-14 Watts. The istick 30w will also work great in the same price range. It's a little smaller, arguably a better screen, but feels a little less solidly built.
Both iStick 20w and Sigelei mini 30w. Nautilus does not cook the liquid, it just heats it up and sprays it, fills up the center tube with unburnt liquid after a tank, maybe tank and a half.
I have 2 Nautilus Mini's and have swapped out coils, turned it up and down 5 to 15w, different air holes all the way up and down,I can still feel the mist of the mini's in my mouth.
I can go a day or 2 just vaping with my Kanger Bottom Dual Coils, go back to the Aspire and feel the tiny droplets in my mouth. I can't even use the Nautilus to test different flavors it sucks so bad.
I don't hack in the morning since I quit using the Nautilus.
One thing about a lot of people, they will believe anything you tell them.
Nautilus coils are 'junk', and the vapor from them is worse than anything I've tried, CE4, iTaste 16, iTaste 30s, Kanger BDC tanks.
I would not recommend a Nautilus tank to anyone over anything.
It's a great pitch Noway... so I'll like your post.
Also, I'm going to check it out... maybe you are right... I've never really noticed anything strange about the vapor... but now you mention it
Also, I'm going to check it out... maybe you are right... I've never really noticed anything strange about the vapor... but now you mention it
My experience has been the opposite. When I was using the ProTank 3 with 2.1 ohm coils, anything above 8 watts and it just tasted horrid. No flavor at all and it would start tasting burnt. With the ProTank 3, the only juices that actually had a taste that I could detect was menthol based juices. With the Nautilus, I can actually get the taste of the juice and I don't start getting that burnt taste unless I crank it up past 15 watts. What helps the Nautilus is the wicking holes are much larger on the BVC coils as compared to the ProTank 3, and the Nautilus also has the airflow control. Granted, if I start restricting the airflow below the widest open, then it also reduces the maximum wattage I can run the Nautilus before it starts tasting burnt. By comparing the two tanks, running at the same wattage and almost the same resistance coils (2.1 in the PT3 versus 1.8 in the Nautilus), I get much more flavor and vapor from the Nautilus.
I do agree that the Nautilus tends to condensate the vapor more (every time I go to refill the tank I need to remove the drip tip and wipe down the bottom of the drip tip and wipe out the inside of the top hardware (where the drip tip fits into). If I don't do this, then when I turn the tank upside down to refill it, the condensate drips out onto my fingers. But it's not as bad as "fills up the center tube with unburnt liquid".
Well, I don't know about the Nautilus being a "horrible" tank, I don't think it's horrible, but I have detected that both of mine produce a "wetter" vapor than my Subtank Nano. Since turning up the wattage on my Nautilus, using an iStick 30, there's no gurgling or spitting, but the vapor still does tend to be moist. I'm not sure why this is, and I am not sure whether or not I dislike it.
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