Positive up or down in a tube mech mod?
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I re- wrap my batteries at the smallest sign of a scratch and I hope that everybody using replaceable batteries do so ...
Sure, but there's always the risk that you miss a tiny scratch, or get the battery scratched when inserting, and then you're in trouble.
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The mechs that I use are lined inside (at the top as well), so this issue is close to impossible ...
Why even ask, seriously?
The idea is to mitigate any and all chances for catastrophic failure and keeping your wraps pristine is always part of that. The answer is above, take it or leave it.
[EDIT] Sorry, sorry, skipped over the lined tube part. Naturally if your mech is designed for operation with the positive end down, then go for it. Always good to know the "why" behind this though. Makes you realize how stupidly designed many tubes are.
The idea is to mitigate any and all chances for catastrophic failure and keeping your wraps pristine is always part of that. The answer is above, take it or leave it.
[EDIT] Sorry, sorry, skipped over the lined tube part. Naturally if your mech is designed for operation with the positive end down, then go for it. Always good to know the "why" behind this though. Makes you realize how stupidly designed many tubes are.
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Considering the power flow, it has to remain topside up. Electricity flows in the path of least resistance. To orient batteries in reverse would likely require wiring, which would become an issue for lower resistances. Might as well build a box at that point so you can make use of the proper wire to carry the amount of current you need. I do believe the end result would be... Undesirable to say the least. Seeing how upon making contact with both ends of the batter starts the current flow, you'd still be wiring the positive to the 510.
Also, if you're worried about venting, you should reconsider what you're doing. Building too low? Build higher. Battery wraps toast? Toss them and get new batteries. I don't rewrap anything. Therefore if the manufacturer wrap comes off, they get tossed and a new battery replaced it. Unsure of your battery can output the current you need? Find a battery that will work for what you need it for. Better safe than sorry. Getting "hot switch" on your mech? Clean your contacts and threads. Also look for "stray arc" marks on the battery(ies) you're using. "Stray Arc" is noticable by dark rings or "pits" on the contacts in the mod of on the batteries themselves. I don't know the term for it, but I have a good idea why it happens. Dirty contacts and or not fully pressing / depressing the buttons (especially on unregulated tube mods) causes those rings. I watched it happen once on a "test rig". When working with pure silver, gold, copper, brass, stainless, and rhodium plated pins.
But yeah, there are also mechs that vent from the top and sides (see V3Tronix Flip). It had 3 fairly good sized vent holes on the side of the mech. Also note that the batteries we use do not always fit snug into our devices, which may aid in the venting process. However, I'm no scientist, just my speculation is all.
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Also, if you're worried about venting, you should reconsider what you're doing. Building too low? Build higher. Battery wraps toast? Toss them and get new batteries. I don't rewrap anything. Therefore if the manufacturer wrap comes off, they get tossed and a new battery replaced it. Unsure of your battery can output the current you need? Find a battery that will work for what you need it for. Better safe than sorry. Getting "hot switch" on your mech? Clean your contacts and threads. Also look for "stray arc" marks on the battery(ies) you're using. "Stray Arc" is noticable by dark rings or "pits" on the contacts in the mod of on the batteries themselves. I don't know the term for it, but I have a good idea why it happens. Dirty contacts and or not fully pressing / depressing the buttons (especially on unregulated tube mods) causes those rings. I watched it happen once on a "test rig". When working with pure silver, gold, copper, brass, stainless, and rhodium plated pins.
But yeah, there are also mechs that vent from the top and sides (see V3Tronix Flip). It had 3 fairly good sized vent holes on the side of the mech. Also note that the batteries we use do not always fit snug into our devices, which may aid in the venting process. However, I'm no scientist, just my speculation is all.
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Why would you need wiring to insert a cell in positive down? Either you are massively off the mark, or I have completely misunderstood your post (and if I have I apologise).
Agreed, the issue here is the sleeve for the circuit bypassing the atomizer on a short to the battery wall. In normal operation, no wiring is required. Up or down, no difference in performance, hence why this question comes around from time to time.
My question is about whether or not it would fire the atty or maybe fire the button. Burning ones finger.
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When the positive is connected to the atty and there's a short, the mod autofires. Assuming you build within the CDR of the cell, this buys you time to get the battery out.
When the negative is connected to the atty and there's a short, the atty is bypassed completely and your MOD completes the circuit, causing an instantaneous hard short when the button is pressed.
Assuming a metal inner sleeve for a tube mod, negative up is bad news.
The way the battery is pointing doesn’t affect which end of the mod heats up. A circuit is a circuit.
Well, either way, makes me nervous. Sorry, not sorry. I would think that adjusting the orientation at all would affect the resistance or have an affect on power output.
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Doesn’t matter which way a battery faces in a mech. I always face the positive wherever the vent holes are.
Just need to understand what was stated earlier if the positive is facing up and there is a tear the mod will autofire, if it is facing down and has a tear it will hard short when you fire the mod.
Just need to understand what was stated earlier if the positive is facing up and there is a tear the mod will autofire, if it is facing down and has a tear it will hard short when you fire the mod.
The circuit doesn't care. For safety's sake with flat top batteries I recommend + up toward the atty unless the user has a faux-hybrid (direct to battery) top cap. With a faux hybrid, the real danger is denting in the + contact and allowing a direct short at the 510 pin. I judge that more likely than a wrap tear given reasonable care, so I recommend inverting them in that case. The - contact is harder to dent. Button top batteries must face + up toward the atty or the button can make contact with the switch without pressing it resulting in an autofire. So yes, in general, + up to the atty.
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That's the Broadside mod. It has that delrin lining specifically so that the battery can be inserted positive-down. Otherwise, you'll want to use positive-up, for the reasons stated in zoiDman's diagram, above. Yes if your wrap's in perfect shape, it shouldn't matter, but in case something goes unnoticed, proper orientation ensures current is still limited by the atomizer coil and gives you more time to correct the situation.
If you put it in upside down, you might cross the streams and that would be bad. Total protonic reversal and an end to all life and you know it.
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