Power problems with my V1 Vamo?

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Gunner83

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Oct 31, 2012
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I've had this V1 Vamo for about a year, and it's been great. The only performance issue I've had over the last year is when the o-ring went bad, but that was an easy fix.

But last week or so, just randomly, the power seemed to die off. I got into micro-coils and cotton a few months ago and love the combo in my RSST and ProTanks. If you're familiar with the performance of micro-coils and cotton, you know it hits like a champ and produces nice clouds of vapor.

Well, now, for some reason, no matter what wattage/voltage I have my Vamo set on, it hits the same; WEAK. I was running both my RSST and ProTank rebuilds at around 12 watts and it was giving me a GREAT throat hit and GREAT vapor/flavor. Now, even at 15 watts, the throat hit is weak and so is the vapor production.

I should note, the batteries I'm using (Panny cgr18650ch) are also as old as the Vamo and I only have two, so they have evenly been used/charged as needed over the last year.

So am I looking at a mod problem, or just need new batteries? I realize batteries are only good for X amount of charge cycles, generally. But it seems weird that the power drop was so sudden. It didn't slowly die off.

Could leaked juice have gotten past the o-ring and possibly messed up the internals somehow? I know I'm being cheap, trying to hold onto and fix a 1-year old $35 mod. I will be looking for a completely new mod/batteries at some point, maybe tax time, but I would still like to get this back up and running if possible.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Edit to add some more info: This is happening with every device I put on it. I usually stay in RMS mode, but even tried switching to AVG mode, with no change.
 
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Rickajho

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Apr 23, 2011
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Are you keeping your 510 connector clean and free of liquid? These liquids are non conductive and a "wet" 510 connector can downgrade performance.

ETA: Go to the other end of things too. Clean the threads on the battery end cap and the tube with some rubbing alcohol to clean up any possible conductivity problems there.
 
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Gunner83

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Oct 31, 2012
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Are you keeping your 510 connector clean and free of liquid? These liquids are non conductive and a "wet" 510 connector can downgrade performance.

ETA: Go to the other end of things too. Clean the threads on the battery end cap and the tube with some rubbing alcohol to clean up any possible conductivity problems there.

I always wipe the 510 connection out pretty good when I refill whatever tank I'm using, which is pretty often. But sometimes with my RSST, it will leak a lot of juice and that's why I was wondering if any may have snuck past the o-ring.

I haven't messed with the other end, but I will now. Thanks for the tip.
 

EBates

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Nov 4, 2013
3,858
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Are you cleaning and dry burning your atomizer heads?
I had always 'cleaned' my atomizers by washing them with tap water and everclear. But had been ignoring the coil. They build up a surprising amount of burned on crud.
Tried using the technique recommended by one of the folks here on ECF. I've tweaked it a bit but have loved the results.
Note: cotton wicks probably will not survive dry burning

Here my techinque:
Tools used:
Pill Bottle, Tweezers, Needle Nosed pliers (Optional for stem removal), Protank or similar tank base, vv/vw PV.
Isopropyl Alcohol (Not Rubbibg Alcohol)

Process:
Drop atomizers into pill bottle
Add sufficient Iso to cover atomizer(s), allow to soak for 24 hours
Remove atomizer(s) and rinse under warm tap water forcing water into the stem for 20-30 seconds.
Blow through the stem to remove any water trapped inside and blot dry with a paper towel.
Allow to air dry.
install the atomizer onto the Protank base.
Remove the stem seal, remove the stem (pull while gently rocking the stem)
Carefully remove the flavor wick(s) Note: The atomizer wick generally consists of a flavor wick(s) on top of a coil wrapped wick.
Attach the Protank base with your atomizer installed onto your PV, powerup, voltage 3.7.
Using 3 second on/3 second off, dry burn the coil until all windings glow red. The coil wick should also turn white. Blow off any ash.
Place the flavor wick(s) as close as you can to directly on top of the coil wick.
Repeat the 3 second on/off process 3 or 4 times to cleanup the flavor wick.
Reinstall the stem and stem seal.
Your atomizer should be good to go.

Since your's is a V1 you could also have the old spring style. Verify that you still have good tension in the battery cap spring.

Check for 'Hot Spots' on the body of your Vamo. The design of the Vamo relies on the body for grounding. Hot spots at body joints and battery cap indicate a poor ground. The battery cap and spring, 18650 extension joint, head joint are prime suspects.
The fix may be as simple as loosening and retightening a threaded joint.
 
Last edited:

Gunner83

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 31, 2012
343
321
US
Are you cleaning and dry burning your atomizer heads?
I had always 'cleaned' my atomizers by washing them with tap water and everclear. But had been ignoring the coil. They build up a surprising amount of burned on crud.
Tried using the technique recommended by one of the folks here on ECF. I've tweaked it a bit but have loved the results.
Note: cotton wicks probably will not survive dry burning

Here my techinque:
Tools used:
Pill Bottle, Tweezers, Needle Nosed pliers (Optional for stem removal), Protank or similar tank base, vv/vw PV.
Isopropyl Alcohol (Not Rubbibg Alcohol)

Process:
Drop atomizers into pill bottle
Add sufficient Iso to cover atomizer(s), allow to soak for 24 hours
Remove atomizer(s) and rinse under warm tap water forcing water into the stem for 20-30 seconds.
Blow through the stem to remove any water trapped inside and blot dry with a paper towel.
Allow to air dry.
install the atomizer onto the Protank base.
Remove the stem seal, remove the stem (pull while gently rocking the stem)
Carefully remove the flavor wick(s) Note: The atomizer wick generally consists of a flavor wick(s) on top of a coil wrapped wick.
Attach the Protank base with your atomizer installed onto your PV, powerup, voltage 3.7.
Using 3 second on/3 second off, dry burn the coil until all windings glow red. The coil wick should also turn white. Blow off any ash.
Place the flavor wick(s) as close as you can to directly on top of the coil wick.
Repeat the 3 second on/off process 3 or 4 times to cleanup the flavor wick.
Reinstall the stem and stem seal.
Your atomizer should be good to go.

Since your's is a V1 you could also have the old spring style. Verify that you still have good tension in the battery cap spring.

Check for 'Hot Spots' on the body of your Vamo. The design of the Vamo relies on the body for grounding. Hot spots at body joints and battery cap indicate a poor ground. The battery cap and spring, 18650 extension joint, head joint are prime suspects.
The fix may be as simple as loosening and retightening a threaded joint.

I build my own coils/wicks, and it does this even with brand new fresh coils.

I didn't even think about the spring, but mine is good to go. I bought a replacement spring before I even received my Vamo, because of known issue with the factory spring on the Vamo.
 

Keynith

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ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 13, 2011
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309
Atlanta
Thanks for all the info, guys.

I ended up just ordering a new Vamo V5 the other day. Besides this issue, the finish is so worn out and cruddy looking, that I wanted a new one in stainless steel.

Pro tip; If a nice finish is of any concern to you, do not get "black chrome" or "gun metal". :D

I use Jwraps on my gear so the finish isnt that big of a deal :)
 

Gunner83

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ECF Veteran
Oct 31, 2012
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321
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I use Jwraps on my gear so the finish isnt that big of a deal :)

I've thought about those, but haven't picked any up. I like the stainless look anyway, so I'm happy with the new Vamo, and happy that it can't wear off.

At one point, with my old one, I was thinking about just wrapping it with some hockey tape. Extra grippy.

:D
 
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