Powermat Charging integrated into DNA 30 unit?

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Euphonious Nonsense

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First let me start by saying pardon my ignorance when it comes to the inter-workings of this type of circuitry, not really my forte, however with that in mind I have recently jumped headlong into building my own mod. I have had little to no issues thus far but I have a conundrum which I hope someone here can help me sort out.

I have a 840mah output powermat charging unit that I am going to try and integrate into a dna 30 box mod I am building. As I understand it the evolve charging unit has a 500mah output. Ideally my end goal here is to have both a micro USB charging option using the evolve charging chip as well as a powermat charging option utilizing the powermat hardware I salvaged. Using them in tandem is not really an issue for me (as in I have no need to do this) but I would like to know if is possible since were on the topic. Below are the specs that i have personally been able to gather from this powermat unit, I have looked online and found various (conflicting) information thus I just did the testing myself to come to these numbers.

Powermat PMR-BBP1

  • Output Voltage: 5V.
  • Max Output Current: 840mah.
  • Standby Current: 110mah.
  • Operating Temperature Range: 0-40°C.

My question is thus three part;

1.) Is this even possible?

2.) If so what would be the ideal method to wire everything as far as the charging?

3.) Provided the first two are answered, What, if anything, will I need to "protect" the DNA chip from an overload/bricking?
 
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asdaq

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Yes it is. I see what you mean by conflicting specs too, I see a max output current of 1000 mAh, no mention of standby. If you wire the evolv charger to the DNA at the battery in contacts, this completes the charging circuit in it's simplest configuration. Note that this is the same as wiring the charging board directly to the battery, at least schematically. Also note that the evolv charger inputs 4.5- 5.5v and outputs 4.2v at 500mah. The charging board regulates the voltage from USB to a variety of possible current inputs as one can expect a variety of sources, like a computer, wall adapter or car adapter and it is the charging board that decides what it needs.

The induction receiver should be wired in parallel to the USB input of the charger board itself which will regulate the voltage and current for this source as well. The tricky part is tapping into the v-in and gnd on the charging board, micro-usb is small.... hopefully someone can chime in with good news that the bottom of the board has more optimum contacts.
 

BuzzKilla

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I'm in the research stage of doing the same thing...

I got a QI charging pad for my phone, and was going to ask a similar question on the forums...
I came up with this....

THis charging board:
Micro USB Charging Board
notice how it has a (-/+) INPUT as well as output.

I was thinking of attaching the leads from the induction coil to the input.
The USB charging board then would deal with any regulating that the coil would provide.
To my knowledge this would allow me to use either the USB or a charging pad to charge the mod.

Maybe the OP can salvage the induction coil and attach it to this board(or another similar board) and use his power mat?
Or just wire the coil to the leads of the USB port on the Evolv board (if you already purchased it....)

I am in no way an electrical engineer, please correct me if this will go BOOM.
 
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asdaq

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I strongly suspect the evolv board has an easier route, one thing it is likely smaller than the one you linked Buzz, but if there is room for the coil, there is bound to be room for a slightly larger board that is easy to work with.

I took it this is the receiver, with a battery door for a phone: Powermat PMR-BBP1

Although this thread has some dead pics, the OP is doing this and have a look at slopes' 3rd post:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/412267-wireless-qi-charging-mod-evic-leo-ego-c-evic-done-here.html

edit: there is an insert coil for Samsung Galaxy S3 that slips into the space between the existing battery and door that is very common to find on Amazon too. And the S4 apparently: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_0_11?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=qi%20receiver&sprefix=qi+reciever%2Caps%2C819&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aqi%20receiver
 
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Euphonious Nonsense

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Give me a sec and i'll post pix of the evolve charging board, I have a few with me.

O9AT0Grl.jpg


Tz3gnXsl.jpg


Thanks for all the help/input, it is highly appreciated.
 
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asdaq

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I doubt I could solder that, too much of a PIA for me. The good news is there is a common ground, the larger trace on the bottom side shows this. The USB data pins are not used, but the v-in has components surrounding it and the positive side of the circuit is on the top side. The board Buzz linked would be much easier to work with.
 

Euphonious Nonsense

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I doubt I could solder that, too much of a PIA for me. The good news is there is a common ground, the larger trace on the bottom side shows this. The USB data pins are not used, but the v-in has components surrounding it and the positive side of the circuit is on the top side. The board Buzz linked would be much easier to work with.

Any other options that I could use that would allow me to bypass the evolve charging? A second charging unit perhaps?

I havent dont much SMD/circuit soldering sooo prolly should avoid if possible.

(By much I mean none LOL)
 

asdaq

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You could cheat and use the evolv board and cut a micro USB cable and solder the wires to the induction leads, and just have everything stuffed into the mod. This would negate using the USB as intended, but it is a fairly compact solution and you already have the board.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
 

Euphonious Nonsense

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You could cheat and use the evolv board and cut a micro USB cable and solder the wires to the induction leads, and just have everything stuffed into the mod. This would negate using the USB as intended, but it is a fairly compact solution and you already have the board.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk


I can't believe I didn't think of that. THANK YOU!
 

asdaq

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It isn't the most elegant solution, but it would be easy. I do think that in the second pic showing the bottom view, the solder above the right screw mount hole is the v-in. You would have to look closely at the port itself and check it for continuity with a multimeter.
It also looks like the trace continues from here to the top edge of the board to another solder point that is for mounting the port itself, so it really needs checking.

If true it would be an easier place to solder a wire to, and you get to mount the charging board normally and still use the usb.
 

Euphonious Nonsense

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It isn't the most elegant solution, but it would be easy. I do think that in the second pic showing the bottom view, the solder above the right screw mount hole is the v-in. You would have to look closely at the port itself and check it for continuity with a multimeter.
It also looks like the trace continues from here to the top edge of the board to another solder point that is for mounting the port itself, so it really needs checking.

If true it would be an easier place to solder a wire to, and you get to mount the charging board normally and still use the usb.

Truth be told the only reason im not soldering directly to the evolve charging unit is because it's already epoxied in place. Next one of these I do will use only one charging unit and be wired right. Looks like I'll be keeping this one for myself. I just ordered 10 of those charging boards that were linked earlier in the thread so that should make it a whole lot easier.
 

asdaq

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Ahh, gotcha. From what I remember, the evod mod in the thread I linked had the wires from the receiver going into the head of the mod and the whole shabamm was basically taped around the outside of the mod. You gotta love prototypes. Do let us know how you get on with this, I do like induction charging with my phone.
 

Visus

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This post had me looking at induction coils -- quite expensive addition and then the distance factor is mere millimeters and most enclosures are at least 3-4mm thick which drastically cuts down the charging rate.

Really neat idea but with substantial mah and my mods case thickness it would take a long time to charge.. They use a 1 mm plastic overlay over the induction coil on receiver and transmitter, almost paper thin plastic..

:vapor:
 

Vapant

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When I made one, I too used the larger charge board posted earlier. However, I wasn't interested in plugging a USB lead in so I didn't bother with a hole.
My enclosure is over 1.5mm thick (0.06") and I've had no problems with the coil not charging the battery even after I wrapped the mod in vinyl.
I think I paid £7 for the mat and receiver delivered, so pretty damned cheap I'd say.

20131214_144519_zpsf61ccd75.jpg

20131203_205718_zps8c660832.jpg
 

asdaq

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My phone's charger is rated to 5mm material thickness for the coil to take the charge. I have a glass backed phone, a thin case and I just tried a ~3mm glass coaster between the charger and the phone and it charged at its usual rate for about 15 minutes. Not bad. The one limiting factor is the coil may not be placed behind metal, but with a thicker plastic case I don't think there will be any issues.

And the joy of not having to mess with the orientation of a micro USB plug 500-1000x makes it worth every penny.
 
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