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Precise ELA Telescoping MOD by Super-T Manufacturing PT 2

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Nach

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How many recharges are AW IMR batteries good for before they start to lose their capacity... I have a pair of AW 18490 1100 mAh batteries that are about a year old- They have been recharged each over 300 times... It must be time for a fresh pair?

Typical lifespan that lithium based batteries have are ~300 cycles
 

vaptamist

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Needs a few tweaks, but here it is. Though it's overall design looks much like the Schaf or Satburn, its actually different on the inside. Smooth as butter and retains the dual grounding action and of course, is genuine Super-T OEM with our Trademarked "P":

10359902_10100992665921891_8513993505748765653_n.jpg

Curious, how is it different on the inside?
 

poconojo

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I think you should buy a Super-T flat switch and compare the two. :) I got my flat switch today, it's really neat!

Do you like the flat switch better than the stock switch? I have the flat switch for V2 which I received yesterday, but I don't have the new ELA yet. Just wanted your opinion of which one you prefer.
 
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vdefazzio

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I'm still using my original band as well. I have removed and cleaned it several times. It's not that difficult, just make sure you push it out the side that doesn't have the lip. If you try to take it over that lip, you will definitely deform it. If you push it out the other side gradually with a small flathead screwdriver, it shouldn't be too difficult.

I just compress it a little at the cut with my fingernail and it tilts right out with little resistance. Pretty easy.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
 

snork

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Do you like the flat switch better than the stock switch? I have the flat switch for V2 which I received yesterday, but I don't have the new ELA yet. Just wanted your opinion of which one you prefer.
I think I'll always prefer the stock button, but this flat button is excellent and typically ingenious. I have some more tests to perform.

The ELA is the best 18000 series mod in the industry. Probably the best 18000 series mod period! In Nach's opinion.
With the tweaks on V2, I agree. :)
 

forcedfuel50

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Curious, how is it different on the inside?

In all fairness, I've only ever seen the inside of the Satburn, but am assuming the Schafer is similar. The Satburn has a screw in brass retention piece that screws into the button and then you screw the switch contact into that brass piece which is threaded on the inside.

Ours utilizes a brass back button retention piece, only it isn't threaded on either side, it fits over the switch and the switch contact screws into the stainless button itself and holds the brass retention in place. What we achieved by doing this over the other design(s) is eliminating one more electrical junction that electricity has to pass through. Each electrical junction electricity has to pass through adds more resistance to the circuit.

On a Sat switch, electricity passes from the switch contact to the brass retention piece and from the brass retention piece to the switch. On ours the electricity passes from the contact, directly to the switch.
 

forcedfuel50

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Inside of Schafer switch + magnetic ring...Smooth press with a short through, I look forward to comparing it to the SuperT OEM flat switch.
29m4t5k.jpg

I can't tell from that pic, do you have a pic with it disassembled and laid out? Does that brass piece screw on?
 

Riverboat

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I can't tell from that pic, do you have a pic with it disassembled and laid out? Does that brass piece screw on?

That's as far as it breaks down other then removing the SuperT bottom contact, The switch is pressed together as one piece design... That brass piece is the magnetic piece that drops (Not screws) into the bottom of the ELA (Brass facing downwards) then you screw the switch assembly in... Switch has a copper bottom with a magnetic Steel center.....
 
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forcedfuel50

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That's as far as it breaks down other then removing the SuperT bottom contact, The switch is pressed together as one piece design... That brass piece is the magnetic piece that drops (Not screws) into the bottom of the ELA (Brass facing downwards) then you screw the switch assembly in... Switch has a copper bottom with a magnetic Steel center.....

So you can't remove the switch to clean inside the cap where the switch passes through? If so, that's a critical area that needs to be cleaned periodically as it builds up gunk and corrosion and will limit performance as the connection degrades as this switch ground via two ways, friction between the switch and the cap where it passes through and through the spring. Also, for those who have the Schaf switch, I'd recommend using the spring version, the magnets eliminate the dual grounding feature.
 

snork

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In all fairness, I've only ever seen the inside of the Satburn, but am assuming the Schafer is similar. The Satburn has a screw in brass retention piece that screws into the button and then you screw the switch contact into that brass piece which is threaded on the inside.

Ours utilizes a brass back button retention piece, only it isn't threaded on either side, it fits over the switch and the switch contact screws into the stainless button itself and holds the brass retention in place. What we achieved by doing this over the other design(s) is eliminating one more electrical junction that electricity has to pass through. Each electrical junction electricity has to pass through adds more resistance to the circuit.

On a Sat switch, electricity passes from the switch contact to the brass retention piece and from the brass retention piece to the switch. On ours the electricity passes from the contact, directly to the switch.
Would then the next logical evolution be that the switch button is all one piece without a screw-in contact?
 

forcedfuel50

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Would then the next logical evolution be that the switch button is all one piece without a screw-in contact?

The problem I see with that is a one piece switch then you'd have to have the entire switch plated, and when the plating wears, you'd have to replace the entire switch, not just the contact itself.
 
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