You must have one heck of a pinky finger.............And hello fellow Okie.
Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!
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"Nasty glasses". Now that's classic!!!!! I've been using mine for over a week and it's still really really stiff. Oh well, only elephants and turtles grow old with grace. But neither have bad hands and no thumbs. 
Speaking of stiff and thread lube. ( shut up, take the glasses off ) some one just gave me some Loctite anti-seize "silver" I have never used thread lube, but if I use it on ELA, I suppose I use it on the threads? ANy where specifically and where should it NOT be used. I assume no where near the contacts
I have seen mention of Loctite "copper" and "brass" does this mean it has those metals in the stuff or its for those metals only. Can I use this "silver" on my ELA's ?
I have seen mention of Loctite "copper" and "brass" does this mean it has those metals in the stuff or its for those metals only. Can I use this "silver" on my ELA's ?
Speaking of stiff and thread lube. ( shut up, take the glasses off ) some one just gave me some Loctite anti-seize "silver" I have never used thread lube, but if I use it on ELA, I suppose I use it on the threads? ANy where specifically and where should it NOT be used. I assume no where near the contacts
I have seen mention of Loctite "copper" and "brass" does this mean it has those metals in the stuff or its for those metals only. Can I use this "silver" on my ELA's ?
I don't really see the need for lube on our ELAs. Our Titaniums, yes. On the Titaniums, I use Noalox. Per David's advice.
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Speaking of stiff and thread lube. ( shut up, take the glasses off ) some one just gave me some Loctite anti-seize "silver" I have never used thread lube, but if I use it on ELA, I suppose I use it on the threads? ANy where specifically and where should it NOT be used. I assume no where near the contacts
I have seen mention of Loctite "copper" and "brass" does this mean it has those metals in the stuff or its for those metals only. Can I use this "silver" on my ELA's ?
Personally, I wouldn't recommend it, but that's just my
If it's the stuff I'm thinking of then it has solid particles in it that can have an abrasive effect over time, even though they are much softer particles than the steel of an ELA. Not really a big deal on threads that don't get moved much (that's its purpose, to keep bolts from seizing in place so you can remove them down the road when you need to), but on threads that are frequently screwed in/out I could see some long-term wear happening, even if only a little. Not to mention the stuff is messyI could be in the wrong ballpark, though, maybe I'm thinking of a different product. And yes, it's intended for use on threads, primarily
I'm familiar with Loctite products. I personally would not use anything from Loctite on my PV's. YMMV
I thought about that but I'm afraid if I slide it all the way out. I'll never get it back in, or I'll lose something.
OMG I can't believe that came out that way!!!!!!
I mean the little retaining pin that fits in the dimple of the slide. Oh heck I give up trying to explain or I'll get banned.
I was the same way, but it's really not too bad to take apart. Here's a video:
Snork is facing a difficult time right now. If you know Snork, you know he is a proud father, of a very special son. Last night, his son choked on some food. Snork performed CPR. Colin is now in an induced coma. Things are very scary right now. Please muster up, every good thought and wish you can, and send them snork's way? Lets fill the air with lots of love, good thoughts, and good wishes!! Snork, Colin, and the family need them all.
See:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/aroma-ejuice/508018-friend-needs-your-prayers.html
We love you snork!
See:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/aroma-ejuice/508018-friend-needs-your-prayers.html
We love you snork!
Thoughts and prayers for a speedy recovery for your son Snork and to you and your family
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
Speaking of stiff and thread lube. ( shut up, take the glasses off ) some one just gave me some Loctite anti-seize "silver" I have never used thread lube, but if I use it on ELA, I suppose I use it on the threads? ANy where specifically and where should it NOT be used. I assume no where near the contacts
I have seen mention of Loctite "copper" and "brass" does this mean it has those metals in the stuff or its for those metals only. Can I use this "silver" on my ELA's ?
Hey Girl! Hope your Awesome! your used to my half baked meaningless babble so, here's a bit more!
The LT will not affect finishing it but I would never use it. It is a mess...even bigger than Naolox. I dont use either nor will I. As Cucco mentions some builders recommend the use of Noalox and is fine to use. Just imo a pita to clean it out of the threads with no gain.
The "newer" approach is to use a dab of Vaseline if needed within the threads. Just a dab. I some times will use it with my flat top caps with a weeping KFL or other atomizer with a flat bottom as they tend to create a bit of "suck together"
! Maybe if I have a squeeky thread...maybe. I'm to OCD to keep a mod that squeeks though There is no reason to coat it.
Remember that the threads will oxidize as the top cap and switch connections. So adding Noalox, other electrical grease and even Vaseline also hampers cleaning imo - holds the oxidation within its own medium.
Silver and silver plated threads, contacts and devices is the only metal that will not lose conductivity through its oxidation. In other words Silver oxidation is the only oxidation that still allows free conduction.
I just keep a nice cotton towel that allows me to quick wipe down. Sometimes a a bit of water sometimes a bit of alcohol dripped on.
Then, when its time, its UC bath time.
Hey Girl! Hope your Awesome! your used to my half baked meaningless babble so, here's a bit more!
The LT will not affect finishing it but I would never use it. It is a mess...even bigger than Naolox. I dont use either nor will I. As Cucco mentions some builders recommend the use of Noalox and is fine to use. Just imo a pita to clean it out of the threads with no gain.
The "newer" approach is to use a dab of Vaseline if needed within the threads. Just a dab. I some times will use it with my flat top caps with a weeping KFL or other atomizer with a flat bottom as they tend to create a bit of "suck together"
There is no reason to coat it.
Remember that the threads will oxidize as the top cap and switch connections. So adding Noalox, other electrical grease and even Vaseline also hampers cleaning imo - holds the oxidation within its own medium.
Silver and silver plated threads, contacts and devices is the only metal that will not lose conductivity through its oxidation. In other words Silver oxidation is the only oxidation that still allows free conduction.
I just keep a nice cotton towel that allows me to quick wipe down. Sometimes a a bit of water sometimes a bit of alcohol dripped on.
Then, when its time, its UC bath time.
I absolutely hate 'gooking up' my stuff. Any type of goo-goo putty gives me the icks.
With my Titaniums, I had problems with my threads. I contacted David. His response: "Titanium is a real "grabby/sticky metal". You can put some noalox on and work it on and off several times and it will loosen up/break in".
Thanks for the 'Vaseline' recommendation.
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I absolutely hate 'gooking up' my stuff. Any type of goo-goo putty gives me the icks.
With my Titaniums, I had problems with my threads. I contacted David. His response: "Titanium is a real "grabby/sticky metal". You can put some noalox on and work it on and off several times and it will loosen up/break in".
Thanks for the 'Vaseline' recommendation.
Hey C,
I have had a few bad Ti threads myself. The Ti Zenesis was the worst(no offense Zen Lovers...I was there once *shivers
). It was ridici. The money I paid for that pos it was like a beaver hollowed out the tube and the threads were done with a plumbers pipe threader. The amount of lube Trojan uses in a year of production wasn't enough to help those threads....too much? Couldn't get rid of it fast enough.
Organic cotton balls
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I don't know if it's true for all cotton, but the reason why I boil my cotton wicks is because they seem to be much less absorbent prior to boiling. It's. to that non-boiled cotton isn't absorbent, it just take a lot longer to saturate them with juice. That might be why it took a quarter of a tank for your setup to taste good...on,y partially saturated so it might be burning the cotton a bit. Even with boiled wicks, I still let a new build sit for a few minutes before vaping it. Again, not sure if this is true for all types of cotton, but that's how it is for mine.
The list is not needed anymore as David was judging interest in an ELA flat button.
The flat button is on the site for order at $30.. Although it's on the site, you can't order it yet.. He said ordering would probably be Tuesday next week though..
I have been out of town and thought I missed it.........................
The new flat button shield will be up for sale later and we've already got it programmed into the machine and we'll start machining on them Wednesday and i'll get a pic up then. Should be able to start shipping them by Thursday or Friday. The machine is currently running Strata top caps, so I can't run one until those are done (different tooling for the different parts).
My .02 on flat buttons: For the most part, I'm not a fan of any flat button that you have to reach around a cap and push in on, (that includes this design and the other aftermarket flat button for the ELA), but you do the best you can with what you have. I more prefer an exposed type like the Simplicity or Carevella where you can just rest the side of your finger or palm right on the button(which I want to do in the future), but You'll appreciate this design for it's integrated look and ability to use your stock button and locking mechanism. You won't want to miss out on this accessory as we won't be making any more in the near future and its a trick little accessory for you ELA fans.
My .02 on flat buttons: For the most part, I'm not a fan of any flat button that you have to reach around a cap and push in on, (that includes this design and the other aftermarket flat button for the ELA), but you do the best you can with what you have. I more prefer an exposed type like the Simplicity or Carevella where you can just rest the side of your finger or palm right on the button(which I want to do in the future), but You'll appreciate this design for it's integrated look and ability to use your stock button and locking mechanism. You won't want to miss out on this accessory as we won't be making any more in the near future and its a trick little accessory for you ELA fans.
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