Printed DNA 40 Bottom Feeder Mod

[KurrptSenate]

lol

don't feel bad if you don't like my "work"

I asked my wife what she thought after I was done

she said "That's........not what I was expecting"

 

[KurrptSenate]

I found most people like it more than me (the 5 I asked)

but that's because it didn't turn out like I imagined it would

but I have a long history of that. tons of unfinished work. I muscled through it. I went back to the head of the octo and added some more detail. I think that turned out pretty good

white background isn't ideal. i'll have to look into getting a different button. that straight white might bother me after a bit

the tentacles got a little too convoluted and a lot of the detail was lost which is whatevs

 

[Merlin21]

It's aliiiiiive



Don't want to jinx it but everything so far is good, top Cap is done ( Negative body leaf was a bit$#)

Just dropped off my external parts to get Cerakoted. He quoted me $30 which is a great price I think, beats buying spray paint, primer etc..

 

[Merlin21]

lol

don't feel bad if you don't like my "work"

I asked my wife what she thought after I was done

she said "That's........not what I was expecting"

Hey Kurrpt, while it isn't something I would put on mine it takes a lot of talent and skill to draw like that, nice job!

 

[Blackl1sted]

I got my 26650 today too and was wondering about dying it.If you dont mind ,what kind of dye are you going to use and does it cover well? I was thinking about priming mine 1st ,then paint with krylon for plastic. Anyone have any thoughts on this ,good or bad?
Thanks in advance

Back in my R/C days I used Ritt clothes dye to dye the plastic parts. It worked great, just put it in an old pan and heat it up and drop in the parts and let soak for a while to dye them. It saturated quite a way through the plastic so it didn't scratch off easy. Good luck and can't wait for the pics to start showing up in the thread.

 

[Merlin21]

If you go the Rit Dye route make sure you get and keep the temperature really hot. Also I have heard adding Vinegar to help get the desired color. I used gray Rit Dye on my Peko and it came out blue...lol

 

[BigLungs]

If you go the Rit Dye route make sure you get and keep the temperature really hot. Also I have heard adding Vinegar to help get the desired color. I used gray Rit Dye on my Peko and it came out blue...lol

The black color comes out blue as well. I used almost pure dye(full bottle of dye added to half cup of water), there is no way that black color is actually black.

That being said, I am actually happy with the way it turned out. It just wasn't black like I wanted.

 

[Vince159]

The black color comes out blue as well. I used almost pure dye(full bottle of dye added to half cup of water), there is no way that black color is actually black.

That being said, I am actually happy with the way it turned out. It just wasn't black like I wanted.

Very interesting, because I use Navy Blue as a sub for Black, so.. what's up with that. I have a dye called Dylon, tropical green. It's pretty good looking green color.

 

[KurrptSenate]

Can someone post a detailed close up of the wires soldered to the DNA board? Looks like there are 2 wires that share the same pad. I want to make sure before I green light this.

Thanks in advance

 

[KurrptSenate]

Can someone confirm this?

The long wires that are blue and yellow that go to tacts, those go to 1 and 2, and 5 and 6. That fat 18g wire goes to 10. The fat black goes to 8. 3 is the positive to the black connector (24g) and 4 is the skinny negative going to the opposite black connector.

At this point I just need to make sure they go into the holes as shown in the build doc (standing up pic)

Please confirm or point out any errors. Thanks guys

 

[KurrptSenate]

Thanks gdeal. I believe I successfully soldered the chip. I'll take a break before tackling the rest. I think the solder fumes were getting to my head lol

 

[Merlin21]

Thanks gdeal. I believe I successfully soldered the chip. I'll take a break before tackling the rest. I think the solder fumes were getting to my head lol

I hear that lol.... I Def took my time.... One night I wired the board, second night certain parts and yesterday fit everything in...... Shoould be getting my cerakoted parts in mid week to complete it

 

[KurrptSenate]

i cannot get the top cap sections apart. theres no glue there. just a really tight fit. any idea on getting these things separated before I break them from all the mangling?

 

[KurrptSenate]

top cap is tuck inside the housing where the fire button is. it's not coming out.

i thought i completely fudged it but I am able to turn on the chip with those the stuck top cap on the internal enclosure but it will not turn on with the button. only the onboard DNA 40 button.

perhaps that stuck tact switch isn't soldered properly. not sure. i can't get in there

 

[KurrptSenate]

alright the button (tact switch) is working. i never glued in the connections in the top cap because I wasn't 100% confident that everything was correct. The button is trying to fire the device. The switches in the bottom are changing wattage. I need to get the top cap apart to make the connectors flush and I should be good. Problem is, I have no idea why i can't pry this thing loose.

it must be the magnets that were glued in. any ideas?

 

[KurrptSenate]

Yes. Apparently I used too much glue for the magnets and I had to break that bond. It was firing the chip with the onboard button and then the tact was working, but now nothing. Don't think it would be a short as the board has protection for that but I get nothing now.

What's the easiest way to test the chip?

 

[KurrptSenate]

This thing is touch and go. Right when I get to putting it back together, nothing doing.

I'll revisit this thing tomorrow

 

[Merlin21]

Hey Kruupt post some pictures of the board connections and the internal top cap maybe it's something you are not looking for

Edit: Just went down to test mine and it did the same thing. Make sure the mini connectors are fully seated on both top cap and body. I had to give mine a descent push to get the the tact fire button to work again. I already have them glued in so I will wait to get my external parts back and see if I have to re work them in as I already glued.

As for testing the board this is what I did but not sure what stage you are at. Disregard the burn mark on the body, from the soldering iron, by the mini connectors

 

[KurrptSenate]

the weird thing is, i had this firing on like 4 separate occasions. every time i try to full assemble the device, i start having problems. it's probably my shoddy solder work tbh.

i might try completely undoing the board and trying again next week

the upgrade kit (3.1 -> 4.2) didn't come with a negative lug to solder to. I had to steal the negative love from my floating FD 510 and bend that. it doesn't allow you screw the nut in the 510 snug, but the nut will make contact with the negative connection.

 

[Vince159]

the weird thing is, i had this firing on like 4 separate occasions. every time i try to full assemble the device, i start having problems. it's probably my shoddy solder work tbh.

i might try completely undoing the board and trying again next week

the upgrade kit (3.1 -> 4.2) didn't come with a negative lug to solder to. I had to steal the negative love from my floating FD 510 and bend that. it doesn't allow you screw the nut in the 510 snug, but the nut will make contact with the negative connection.

I had a similar problem when I first built the 3.1. The problem was the connectors weren't fully connecting. I pressed on the top and snugged it down good and it came on. Since then I still need to give a good press when I put the top on, but it works fine; try pressing the top to make sure those connectors are engaging.