Printed DNA 40 Bottom Feeder Mod

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mwa102464

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    gdeal,

    Your design is looking very nice ! I'm wondering if you could somehow incorporate a Piezo electrical pump into your design, something like this one maybe a smaller one --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-h8dhvmB1E this way your bottle could screw right up into a female end fitting that accepted the bottle ?
     
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    Merlin21

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      Ok...I have email chain going back and forth with Sculpteo on the ridge being printed. They are reviewing it. I'll update again when I get movement from them.

      Just to give you guy a sense of whats involved, The model they have is based upon breaking down the solid/surface into triangles. Here is the triangle analysis on the mesh that is contained in the file they use for printing. I dont see any ridges. Do you?

      My shell is out to get painted but I do not remember seeing a ridge on mine either. I received on 3/19 like Vince did.
       

      gdeal

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      gdeal

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      gdeal

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      mwa102464

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        gdea,

        I believe there available in some different sizes, your design would be cool to have a fire Button and a feed button, twist in bottle and feed your tank or rba with a touch of the button, eliminating the Squank ;-) Either way your design is very cool ! but I'd love to see the Micro feed pump incorporated into this design of yours !
         

        Sumratio

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          gdea,

          I believe there available in some different sizes, your design would be cool to have a fire Button and a feed button, twist in bottle and feed your tank or rba with a touch of the button, eliminating the Squank ;-) Either way your design is very cool ! but I'd love to see the Micro feed pump incorporated into this design of yours !

          You would need a dive circuit. The 10-60Hz 60-250V p-p signal would add some bulk and a lot of complexity.
           

          BigLungs

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            gdea,

            I believe there available in some different sizes, your design would be cool to have a fire Button and a feed button, twist in bottle and feed your tank or rba with a touch of the button, eliminating the Squank ;-) Either way your design is very cool ! but I'd love to see the Micro feed pump incorporated into this design of yours !

            Besides the size, another issue that will need solving is how does the excess flow back down?

            The piezoelectric pumps have one way valves in them, it's how they operate.

            I like the idea though, it could be a sweet option.
             
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            gdeal

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            gdeal

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            RickCain

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              While not perfect, that doesnt look too bad.

              Good point on what is a good print..... Compared to the clusterf that Shapeways had last year, these are stellar. That ridge can be disposed of with some 150-200g sandpaper. The model looks solid and all the features that I can see printed correctly. But based upon Sculpteo raising the bar on print quality, I am still going to press this with Sculpteo to see where it can go.

              For sure, the quality is still much better than Shapeways prints and it just feels solid. I don't mind a light sanding as it makes it look better.
               

              BobC

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                Well, finally got my big screen DNA40 and built the GDNA4.2, all I can say is wow! foor both the mod and DNA, Evolv fixed all issues I had with the chip and it performs great, and includes:
                More accurate ohm reading
                Refinement locking
                much more stability

                XibdVYV.jpg


                kPvXrNx.jpg


                KW847bK.jpg


                4.2 is much easier to build, is much more stable and has an isolated squonk bottle section
                 

                Mark Denison

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                  Besides the size, another issue that will need solving is how does the excess flow back down?

                  The piezoelectric pumps have one way valves in them, it's how they operate.

                  I like the idea though, it could be a sweet option.
                  It would be plausible IF you could tell it to squonk a predetermined amount?
                  Maybe...
                   

                  Mark Denison

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                    Got it....BTW I wouldnt wait. Just take a couple of pictures of it for reference. If we can get them to do reprints, they are arent going to ask for you to send them back.
                    I ordered on March 13th and estimated ship date was March 31st (cheap options) but it shipped on the 23rd and will be here tomorrow.
                    I'll let you know if the ridge is present.
                     

                    moresalt

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                      So, I sanded down that ridge, but now I'm thinking that you will always see that ridge unless you sand down the body so that it's completely smooth...even after paint or cerakote (unless the finish process creates its own texture). That ridge looks like it's a more dense plastic than the rest of the body, so it looks more smooth.
                       

                      BigLungs

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                        Disconnected the up and down tacts. Made sure the device is as snug as humanly possible. Got the new negative lug and installed that. 510 nut is snug as well. Still cannot get anything to fire again.

                        View attachment 422387 View attachment 422388 View attachment 422389

                        Next step is to check for continuity through everything you can think of, starting with the tact fire switch(check both open and closed position.)

                        Check continuity from one end to the other end on each wire, you could have a break in one of your wires.

                        Check continuity on each of the connectors, and with the connectors mated together.

                        Inspect each connection on the board. Make sure that none of the connection points have bridged together with solder.

                        Report back.
                         
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                        BigLungs

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                          I assume you're talking about the fire tact switch. I removed the up and down switches. Do you test it with a battery in? What should my volt meter read? My volt meter is very cheap btw

                          You are going to check with the resistance setting (ohm symbol). Touch your leads together first and remember the number, this is the internal resistance of your meter/wires.

                          You are looking to see that same number through every place you check, this shows you that the connection is good.

                          If there's a connection where you can't get a reading, or get an error, then there's a good chance that's where your problem is.

                          Your meter should be set to the resistance setting, if there's more than one choose the 200 or the lowest number your meter has.

                          No battery in mod.

                          Starting with the fire switch(meter set to resistance), put one lead on the positive and one on the negative(of the fire switch). You won't get a reading until you press the switch at the same time. If you aren't getting a reading when you press the switch, the switch is bad.
                          If you do get a reading, move on and check each of the wires leading from the connectors to the switch, one at a time. Etc Etc Etc

                          To be clear, I am talking about the fire switch in the top cap.
                           
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