Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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I am sure there will be seams but the primary goal would be to cover up the main body and contact points. Since they offer wraps for majority of mods out there, I am sure they can come up with ways to cover up as much as possible.
Anyway, just an idea and was hoping someone in this thread knows him. If not, I am happy to mail him and get a convo started.
If they end up making the wraps for us, first wrap for Gdeal is on me.
Skimming over this just put an image of wrapping e-cigs in paper like they do with alcohol in the US haha. Vaping in public prohibited unless you wrap your vape in paper!
I have seen lots of people report getting "Weak Battery" messages.
Here is something that came across the beta Forum:
Many folks still have a bunch of the 7A fuses left over from DNA30 projects, and essentially we are under-rating our fuses if we only use 2 of them in the DNA40. The DNA40 can pull a max of 16A. If you use two 7A fuses, as we did with the DNA30, then you are right on the verge of the trip point during preheat. Over time, the fuses get a little weaker and start partially tripping (ie high resistance without fully tripping), and the "Weak Battery" messages start happening.
From Bap:
The moral of all of this is to be sure you fuse to least a total of 16A........
Here is something that came across the beta Forum:
Many folks still have a bunch of the 7A fuses left over from DNA30 projects, and essentially we are under-rating our fuses if we only use 2 of them in the DNA40. The DNA40 can pull a max of 16A. If you use two 7A fuses, as we did with the DNA30, then you are right on the verge of the trip point during preheat. Over time, the fuses get a little weaker and start partially tripping (ie high resistance without fully tripping), and the "Weak Battery" messages start happening.
From Bap:
(He is talking about the 7A ones.)
The moral of all of this is to be sure you fuse to least a total of 16A........
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Wow, this is an exciting project I can not wait to start. Spent the last couple days reading everything and ordered everything today. I got a DNA30 from a MikePetro Co-Op and have had zero interest/time in building a mod from scratch. Also wonder if I have the creative skills to pull it off from scratch, but thats another story. ha I have one them fancy pdib mods and I use it daily (just about exclusively); so this is a must have deal for me. Thanks gdeal (and contributors) for doing this project 
can't wait!
Anyone have luck with wrinkle black paint on the 3D printed plastic?
can't wait!Anyone have luck with wrinkle black paint on the 3D printed plastic?
The jury is still out on that one. This is a fresh discovery and lots of testing is being done by several folks right now.
Really, since the main thing you are protecting with the fuse is the battery, to over-rate it a little would work. For example, on a single battery you could us 3 of the 7A fuses, on a dual bat you could use 2 per bat. This would certainly work until we find a more appropriate solution. At 21-24A it will still protect most of the high discharge batteries we are using.
Personally, on this particular Mod, at least on the ones I am making for myself, I am not using a fuse. My justification being that the board protects itself against overcurrent and against reverse polarity. The only thing adding a fuse does is protect the battery against some other failure like a dead short. That being said, I really need to intentionally dead short one of these LG HE2s just to see what the worst case scenario is, if I do I will take pictures and report back. In any event, I am NOT recommending this to/for anyone else.
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BTW, the person that posted this reported that the fuses got really hot when the "Weak Battery" message started happening, which is in keeping with high fuse resistance (near tripping point). He removed the fuses (two 7A), and the weak battery message went away.
Can someone please help me. All I need is to source the 510 & screw I just splurged on all the parts multiple pieces of each since I wasn't in on the co-op. I can't find the screw. Amazon is 1 - 2 months and the other link has a $50 minimum I'm almost desperate but $50 for one screw is crazy. Anyone can help me source one.
Send me a PM.
I still have 1 spare 510 and a couple spare vented screws so I can send you one of each. The 6/32 screw still has the stock 1mm vent hole instead of 1/16th hole, but it's working just fine for me.
If you would like I can even sand the head down appropriately before I send it off to you. I can even drill and tap the delrin insulator for you if you like, and shorten the old center post that becomes the negative battery contact.
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Nice Family 
almost 3 weeks and no chips back from Evolv The waiting is killing me
almost 3 weeks and no chips back from Evolv The waiting is killing me 
Nice Family
Same with me! it was delivered to them on the Nov. 17th, and not a word back from them, I don't want to call but.......
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