Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

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Steamer861

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Mine are all ready to be built :)
I ordered them all ready coloured from SW the middle one is my favourite :)
I put about a dozen coats of Minwax Semigloss Polyurethane on them, now I just need my Dna40's. They should be here any day now :)
f3e67316-1f42-4ec3-99c2-4468b223536d.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 

Aal_

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Mine are all ready to be built :)
I ordered them all ready coloured from SW the middle one is my favourite :)
I put about a dozen coats of Minwax Semigloss Polyurethane on them, now I just need my Dna40's. They should be here any day now :)
f3e67316-1f42-4ec3-99c2-4468b223536d.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Nice, they look ceramic from too much coatings :D
 

gdeal

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BigLungs

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Did a quick Rit dye test on an extra ring..... The bottle said black.....the result was blue????

pAmLqLM.jpg

Well, thank you for the test. I was going to use that exact dye to turn my parts black, but I don't want blue lol. I do like blue too though.

Did it turn out well, nice and uniform color? The pic makes it look like it has white specs all over the blue.

I was hoping to dye my parts black then clear coat, so the paint wouldn't be as thick, but I may just be sticking to paint then clear.

Edit
Perhaps a stronger solution of dye to water is needed to get it to it's intended color?
 
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gdeal

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phibbus

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Did a quick Rit dye test on an extra ring..... The bottle said black.....the result was blue????

pAmLqLM.jpg

I didn't even get close to dyeing any of my parts on Sunday, as I'd hoped to do, but I did pick up the Rit and some Krylon 1311. I opted for the powdered black dye since I've always had bad luck with liquid in the past. Still going to give it a shot, and if I don't get the desired result, I'll paint, instead.

What I did do on Sunday, with the limited time I had available, was become preoccupied with sanding. As I'd said earlier, I was hoping to lessen the appearance of the print lines in the body while leaving some of the playing-card-like texture. After a few minutes, though, it became apparent that it wouldn't be possible since the variegation of the print striations is deeper than the surface texture, itself—and so I wound up with smooth bands that were more visible than when I started.

After that, I just kept going, using a sanding sponge across the whole height to avoid getting low spots. Been at it a few minutes each night, since, and I probably now have the smoothest Peko in existence. The texture now feels a lot like the "rubberized" coating they put on eGo batteries. I'm almost done, and I'll get some before and after pics, soon.
 

jonniemac

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How much stronger would you say the alumide is than the plastic?

The "metallic plastic" as they call it now, or alumide, is the same nylon plastic with aluminum dust mixed in.

From the Shapeways material page: "Metallic Plastic is Nylon Plastic filled with Aluminum dust. This dust gives Metallic Plastic the sparkle, but also makes the material more brittle than the Strong & Flexible material."
 

gdeal

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gdeal

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BobC

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The "metallic plastic" as they call it now, or alumide, is the same nylon plastic with aluminum dust mixed in.

From the Shapeways material page: "Metallic Plastic is Nylon Plastic filled with Aluminum dust. This dust gives Metallic Plastic the sparkle, but also makes the material more brittle than the Strong & Flexible material."
Not in my experience, I have a few Alumide and SFs, the Alumides are definitely stronger and not brittle at all, after months of use
 

Aal_

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I didn't even get close to dyeing any of my parts on Sunday, as I'd hoped to do, but I did pick up the Rit and some Krylon 1311. I opted for the powdered black dye since I've always had bad luck with liquid in the past. Still going to give it a shot, and if I don't get the desired result, I'll paint, instead.

What I did do on Sunday, with the limited time I had available, was become preoccupied with sanding. As I'd said earlier, I was hoping to lessen the appearance of the print lines in the body while leaving some of the playing-card-like texture. After a few minutes, though, it became apparent that it wouldn't be possible since the variegation of the print striations is deeper than the surface texture, itself—and so I wound up with smooth bands that were more visible than when I started.

After that, I just kept going, using a sanding sponge across the whole height to avoid getting low spots. Been at it a few minutes each night, since, and I probably now have the smoothest Peko in existence. The texture now feels a lot like the "rubberized" coating they put on eGo batteries. I'm almost done, and I'll get some before and after pics, soon.

What grit sandpaper should i be sanding at?
 

StirCwazy

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biglungs gave you an idea of cost when you do it all on your own - to see what happens to that cost when there is cost-sharing take a look at the co-op i just completed ;)

So question, correct me if I'm wrong, but it would be around $100 (+/- for shipping and quick looks) for the parts kit from your co-op and an entire printed unit. That sound about right?

Maybe I can find someone willing to trade a Reo with 2 doors and extras for a kit and printed unit. Anyone? =)
 
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Steamer861

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Actually it's about 200 bucks for the printed parts the kits and the dna If you were lucky enough to get in on the Co-Op's
If not your looking at way more
and as for your trade offer I would bet no one would trade for even 2 brand new LP Reo Grands I know I wouldn't I guess it was worth a shot :)

So question, correct me if I'm wrong, but it would be around $100 (+/- for shipping and quick looks) for the parts kit from your co-op and an entire printed unit. That sound about right?

Maybe I can find someone willing to trade a Reo with 2 doors and extras for a kit and printed unit. Anyone? =)
 

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