I decided to try a tank. I got the SMOKTECH DCT V2 tank 3.5ML BLACK DELRIN with a Smoktech Pre-Punched Dual Coil LR 1.5 Cartomizer. So I filled the tank and the carto and everything was great and then it kept tasting burned. The carto gets dry and I have to keep filling it, which defeats the purpose of the tank. I read before that people make the pre-punched hole bigger or add more holes. How would I do that? Do I need a drill? I tried to make the hole bigger with the tip of a nail file, but that did not work for me. Or could it be something else? Maybe it has to sit for a while to let the juice go through the hole since its still new? Just got it earlier today.
Problem with holes in carto for tank set up - help please!
- Thread starter snssewell
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
This problem seems to be the most discussed problem with new users of tanks. You'll likely get as many different points of advice as you will people willing to give it to you. My favorite way to vape is with tanks. Once you learn how to get them to work, they offer the most trouble-free and satisfying way to enjoy your juices.
I use Smoktech Pro DCT tanks (the polypropylene syringe type plastic that is frosted). I've never liked the clear polycarbonate tanks for multiple reasons. Anyway, these work pretty good for me. The trick, learned from my experience, is to find the best way for the right amount of juice to wick into the carto. Too much juice wicking will cause it to flood and leak, too little wicking and the carto becomes dry and you'll get that burnt taste or dry pulls.
In my experience, a single pre-punched carto (with the tiny drilled hole) is just not large enough to allow enough juice to wick. Sometimes you can find double or triple punched cartos available, which usually do work, but they are hard to find online. Probably the best thing to do is to get youself a good carto punch tool and punch your carto yourself.
The better carto punches hold more of the carto within the tool to prevent the carto from warping from the action of the punch tool. A warped carto will be difficult or impossible to pass thru the tank's endcaps. The Phiniac website Tools & Accessories - Phiniac Rugged Pyrex Glass Tanks offers this tool for $15, and also offers a handy tank tool that fits on the end of the carto which makes filling the carto and inserting it thru the endcap much easier. Other ecig websites offer carto punch tools, too. Just try to find one similar to this.
View attachment 115949 View attachment 115951
Having your own carto puncher allows you to make the holes the size you want, and choose the number of holes you need. This can depend upon how thick the juice is, how heavy of a vapor you are, and if you vape at higher voltages than 3.7. Sometimes I punch one med sized hole near the bottom of the carto, sometimes two. I've even used three (two near the bottom and another in the middle).
The Smoktech cartos have a flange which will stop the carto in the right spot within the punch tool. You spin the nut clockwise until you hear a little "pop", which means the carto tube has been pierced. Give the nut another twist or two, and then check to see how big the hole is. If too small, carefully line it up over the hole and twist the nut some more. Experience will allow you to know how many times to twist the nut. Don't twist too far or you can damage the air tube in the middle of the carto. Video here shows how easy this is http://phiniac.com/pid-832/carto-punch.html#video
In this image of one of my tanks, you can see the usual size of hole that I normally use in my cartos. (This tank isn't one of the DCT tanks I have, but of a Tripple V pyrex tank that happens to best show the size hole that I punch.) Click on the pic to enlarge.
View attachment 115953
Sounds like you did try to prime the carto correctly. It's my guess that your hole is too small, not allowing enough juice to wick the carto filler.
I use Smoktech Pro DCT tanks (the polypropylene syringe type plastic that is frosted). I've never liked the clear polycarbonate tanks for multiple reasons. Anyway, these work pretty good for me. The trick, learned from my experience, is to find the best way for the right amount of juice to wick into the carto. Too much juice wicking will cause it to flood and leak, too little wicking and the carto becomes dry and you'll get that burnt taste or dry pulls.
In my experience, a single pre-punched carto (with the tiny drilled hole) is just not large enough to allow enough juice to wick. Sometimes you can find double or triple punched cartos available, which usually do work, but they are hard to find online. Probably the best thing to do is to get youself a good carto punch tool and punch your carto yourself.
The better carto punches hold more of the carto within the tool to prevent the carto from warping from the action of the punch tool. A warped carto will be difficult or impossible to pass thru the tank's endcaps. The Phiniac website Tools & Accessories - Phiniac Rugged Pyrex Glass Tanks offers this tool for $15, and also offers a handy tank tool that fits on the end of the carto which makes filling the carto and inserting it thru the endcap much easier. Other ecig websites offer carto punch tools, too. Just try to find one similar to this.
View attachment 115949 View attachment 115951
Having your own carto puncher allows you to make the holes the size you want, and choose the number of holes you need. This can depend upon how thick the juice is, how heavy of a vapor you are, and if you vape at higher voltages than 3.7. Sometimes I punch one med sized hole near the bottom of the carto, sometimes two. I've even used three (two near the bottom and another in the middle).
The Smoktech cartos have a flange which will stop the carto in the right spot within the punch tool. You spin the nut clockwise until you hear a little "pop", which means the carto tube has been pierced. Give the nut another twist or two, and then check to see how big the hole is. If too small, carefully line it up over the hole and twist the nut some more. Experience will allow you to know how many times to twist the nut. Don't twist too far or you can damage the air tube in the middle of the carto. Video here shows how easy this is http://phiniac.com/pid-832/carto-punch.html#video
In this image of one of my tanks, you can see the usual size of hole that I normally use in my cartos. (This tank isn't one of the DCT tanks I have, but of a Tripple V pyrex tank that happens to best show the size hole that I punch.) Click on the pic to enlarge.
View attachment 115953
Sounds like you did try to prime the carto correctly. It's my guess that your hole is too small, not allowing enough juice to wick the carto filler.
Last edited:
I had a hard time with my 3.5ml tank the first couple of times I used it. I can use the pre-punched Smoktechs with a 70-30 (and sometimes a 50-50) juice once the tank system is operating the way it should. I enlarge the hole for the thicker VG juices. The one trick that has helped me determine if the hole is the right size is to do 5 or more primer puffs (without firing the PV) and watch for the tiny air bubbles to come out of the hole. You will get a better idea of what is expected after a while, and what size hole (or holes) works best with the fluid you're using.
If you continue to have trouble, and get fed up with the DCTs, give the wick and atomizer devices a try. I have 2 Vivi Novas and they work really well with minimal fuss. Probably the best tank investment I have made yet.
If you continue to have trouble, and get fed up with the DCTs, give the wick and atomizer devices a try. I have 2 Vivi Novas and they work really well with minimal fuss. Probably the best tank investment I have made yet.
Thanks guys. I did some more research yesterday and found the hammer and nail method to punch the holes. Well it did not work for me at all. Seemed like it closed the hole instead of making it bigger - it almost looks like there was some metal behind the hole and by punching through it just jammed the metal together. Not sure if that makes any sense. I appreciate all the advice given. 
I think I will just go back to my vision clearomizers as I love them, just wanted to try the tank as I heard so much about it. Not sure if I want to invest a lot of money into trial and error if I can just get the clearomizer and be happy with them. But never know I may give it another go one of these days. I did like the amount of vapor that came out of it the few times it did work. We have a local shop about 30-40 minutes from here and they usually help with the set up, maybe I go over there one of these days and see if they have some with holes that would work for me.
Thanks again for the replies!!!
I think I will just go back to my vision clearomizers as I love them, just wanted to try the tank as I heard so much about it. Not sure if I want to invest a lot of money into trial and error if I can just get the clearomizer and be happy with them. But never know I may give it another go one of these days. I did like the amount of vapor that came out of it the few times it did work. We have a local shop about 30-40 minutes from here and they usually help with the set up, maybe I go over there one of these days and see if they have some with holes that would work for me.
Thanks again for the replies!!!
Been having issues with punching holes ss well. Im using a 70/30 pg/vg ratio juice. Just cant seem to get the right sized hole for my cartos. Have wasted almost 15ml of juice trying to make it work. My tank works fine, just flooding of the carto/ dry hits due to over-feeding or poor feeding of juices to the carto.
Just got my siam mod carto punch v2 in today. Hope this id the snswer to my problems. But i still am unsure how big a hole i shld punch using the carto puncher. I see some people mentioned that the prepunched tiny holes work for them. However some complain that its too small that it doesnt allow feeding of the juice.
So im still torn by the size i shld be getting for just the right amount of feeding. Any help guys?
Just got my siam mod carto punch v2 in today. Hope this id the snswer to my problems. But i still am unsure how big a hole i shld punch using the carto puncher. I see some people mentioned that the prepunched tiny holes work for them. However some complain that its too small that it doesnt allow feeding of the juice.
So im still torn by the size i shld be getting for just the right amount of feeding. Any help guys?
Hi,
I tried the first time with 3 holes way too high on the carto, so to get the juice in the wicking and not have that dry burnt taste I had to push the tank up,so far it really was ridiculous looking.
So the next time I punched I measured the thickness of the end cps, and drilled there, but the holes were way too big so they leaked the juice out almost immediately , so now we r talking about 6 cartos, wasted, but finally I got it., the hubs uses a drill press to punch the holes we use the same size drill bitnand it's, omg, I don't know the size, but I do know it's like the 2-3rd size from smaller to,larger. Sorry bout that.
I put 2 holes in the carto and put it in the tank. Fill it up and always, always, put juice into the top of carto, prime it, give it a I'll shake and give the juice some time to soak up in the carto. If your still getting dry hits, could be your juice is too thick? Carto burning to fast , are you keeping the juice levels fairly high enuff to get into the holes.
So hopefully this helps some, but all new things take some learning time, what works for me may not work for you,
Hope you get a good tank vape soon!
I tried the first time with 3 holes way too high on the carto, so to get the juice in the wicking and not have that dry burnt taste I had to push the tank up,so far it really was ridiculous looking.
So the next time I punched I measured the thickness of the end cps, and drilled there, but the holes were way too big so they leaked the juice out almost immediately , so now we r talking about 6 cartos, wasted, but finally I got it., the hubs uses a drill press to punch the holes we use the same size drill bitnand it's, omg, I don't know the size, but I do know it's like the 2-3rd size from smaller to,larger. Sorry bout that.
I put 2 holes in the carto and put it in the tank. Fill it up and always, always, put juice into the top of carto, prime it, give it a I'll shake and give the juice some time to soak up in the carto. If your still getting dry hits, could be your juice is too thick? Carto burning to fast , are you keeping the juice levels fairly high enuff to get into the holes.
So hopefully this helps some, but all new things take some learning time, what works for me may not work for you,
Hope you get a good tank vape soon!
Take a look at the phiniac video showing how to use the V2 punch on the page link that Baditude posted below. Use that as a baseline and work it smaller to larger until the tank works with the juice you are trying to use. It may take some more trial and error, but at least you get a good idea of how the tool is used. Make sure you mark where the hole should be for your tank.
Here is a direct link to the video if it makes it easier http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Okk5B5PLw8&feature=player_embedded
Last edited:
I totally neglected to tell you to NOT use the hammer and nail method. Sorry about that. I know it must work for some folks, but this is the 21st century and there are much easier and better methods to punch a carto than that.Don't give up. We've all been thru this at some point. Trial and error. Best thing to do is watch demo video's and read (these forums provide great info, just have to sift thru it all). There's almost always someone willing to give helpful info if you ask here.
Watch the video link I posted and also click on the pic of my tank to see the typical hole size. Initially do the single hole near the bottom. If you are getting dry hits or burning taste, empty the tank and put the juice in a temporary container. Add a second hole in the carto (the carto won't leak juice out of the hole, but will be slimey) opposite the first one, again near the bottom. Fill the tank back up (syringe or dropper drip top), ensure the carto is still moist, and try vaping. If still dry hits, repeat the emptying of the tank and put a third hole halfway up. Refill and vape.
Quite honestly, I've never had a tank flood on me. I guess I always start out conservative with the holes and work my way up as needed. Or maybe I've just been lucky. There is one tip that may play a factor in this: I never allow juice to get into the air hole in the carto. If I do, accidentally, I use a needle on a syringe and withdraw it out. (some people blow it out from the connector end -- yechh! I've just learned to be careful and patient while filling.
I think 90% of getting the tanks to work is priming the carto enough before you put it in the tank. It takes a lot of juice. YOu can see it get darker in the holes on the sides of the cartomizer. And like bad says, if the center hole has liquid in it, it will run out the bottom.
I was thinking about your dry and leaky tank, I'm thinking the same you must be getting juice in the center looks like a tiny white straw, mine does anyway. Or, does it have o rings, some times they need to expand to work..nic I remember correctly the o rings should sit over nite in sme VG or pg base liquid. Thing about that is the rings have to be in the tank so the whole tank prettymuch gets a good soak .
If you look into your carto, after filing the tank and priming the carto, the filler should look like a white slushy. If it,doesn't it will need more. Does yours work by using a vacuum type seal? That cld also be a problem
Good luck and hope you can get a good vape soon.
If you look into your carto, after filing the tank and priming the carto, the filler should look like a white slushy. If it,doesn't it will need more. Does yours work by using a vacuum type seal? That cld also be a problem
Good luck and hope you can get a good vape soon.
Further recommendation EDIT:
View attachment 117860
Since using the above Tank Tank Tool from Phiniac for some time now, I've come across an issue that I feel the need to share with you, since I did recommend it. I have had problems with some self-punched cartos getting "stuck" in the tank's endcaps due to the cartos getting warped from the carto punch. Also, the Phiniac tank tool (also from Siam Mods) has gotten stuck in the carto in this position, almost making it impossible to remove because not enough of the tool is outside of the tank to get a grip on it.
Big Daddy Vapes sells their own tool to assist inserting/removing cartos and refilling tanks. Great name, "slap yo mamma". It is more expensive, coming in a stainless steel version $13), but also a less expensive delrin version ($8). I have one on order. It looks like it should be a more user friendly device as it is longer and with a "handle" at the end making it easier to grab.
View attachment 117733 View attachment 117736
View attachment 117860
Since using the above Tank Tank Tool from Phiniac for some time now, I've come across an issue that I feel the need to share with you, since I did recommend it. I have had problems with some self-punched cartos getting "stuck" in the tank's endcaps due to the cartos getting warped from the carto punch. Also, the Phiniac tank tool (also from Siam Mods) has gotten stuck in the carto in this position, almost making it impossible to remove because not enough of the tool is outside of the tank to get a grip on it.
Big Daddy Vapes sells their own tool to assist inserting/removing cartos and refilling tanks. Great name, "slap yo mamma". It is more expensive, coming in a stainless steel version $13), but also a less expensive delrin version ($8). I have one on order. It looks like it should be a more user friendly device as it is longer and with a "handle" at the end making it easier to grab.
View attachment 117733 View attachment 117736
Last edited:
I haven't had that problem yet, but I can see it happening. I found this New Extra Long Tank Filler at COV and it looks interesting. I've also been eying that SYM tool and can't decide which I would go with yet, if at all. My DCTs are being used less and less these days unless I feel like switching juices more than usual.
That's actually the tool I already have, from the Phiniac website. I'm withholding recommendations for it until I try the Slap Yo Mamma device, which looks more promising.
Hmmm, yeah, now that I compared pics I see the resemblance. I have what appears to be a shorter version of that. Mine doesn't have the groove. Maybe it's a knock-off. With the extra length, I'm a little surprised that your cartos or the tool gets stuck once in a while. Are you sure it isn't user error?
With the extra length, I'm a little surprised that your cartos or the tool gets stuck once in a while. Are you sure it isn't user error?
Frankly, I don't believe it's user error. As far as the tool being stuck in the carto, it probably is because I had to press the attached tank tool against a hard surface to get the warped carto thru the end caps. Perhaps I shouldn't blame the tool so much as the root of the problem being the warped cartos. If I didn't have to use what I consider excessive force against the tool to get the carto thru the tank, it likely wouldn't have gotten stuck on the carto.
I'm really in a quandry about punching my own cartos. I thought the Phiniac punch tool was one of the better ones available, and it was initially in the beginning. Maybe the point has gotten dull and is now deforming the carto while trying to pierce the tube.
I have looked into the Clouds of Vapor punch tool for $40 (currently out of stock). It has the advantage of having a window cutout to watch the point pierce the carto. But that is also telling me that the tool isn't surrounding the carto around the piercing area to prevent warping, like the others. Plus, $40 bucks is a hefty price to pay for a carto punch, no matter how well it might work.
I may be on a search to find vendors that sell prepunched cartos. The 2 & 3 hole pre-punched (drilled) cartos that I've tried have all wicked well. Not so impressed with the single tiny hole ones.
Exploring deeper into this thread, I saw this link for another carto punch tool.
"Tiny Mite" Carto Punch V-2
There were no reviews for this on the vendor website. Anyone used this? At first glance I like its design. It looks like it surrounds the carto all around the puncture site to prevent warping, and at the same time has a tiny window to allow watching the tip pierce the carto to help determine the hole size. $34 is still a little pricey, but if the thing can punch holes without deforming the carto it might be worth it. Anyone?
"Tiny Mite" Carto Punch V-2
There were no reviews for this on the vendor website. Anyone used this? At first glance I like its design. It looks like it surrounds the carto all around the puncture site to prevent warping, and at the same time has a tiny window to allow watching the tip pierce the carto to help determine the hole size. $34 is still a little pricey, but if the thing can punch holes without deforming the carto it might be worth it. Anyone?
The Siam Mods V2 screw is made of stainless, which I can imagine would get dull after a lot of use. Carbide is really the way to go in a punch tool. I figure dullness is probably what you are seeing. Mine is pretty new, so when I get to the same result, I will probably try to sharpen the tip before going out and looking for another device. As far as the hole size goes, I picked up some small washers to use for adjusting depth. Has worked out pretty well so far.
The Tiny Mite looks interesting though. I still can't see spending that kind money on a punch tool, but that's me.
Oh, and BTW, I was kidding about the user error thing.
Just a couple places with pre-punched carts.
http://www.sweet-vapes.com/shop?pag..._color_plus.tpl&product_id=311&category_id=21
http://www.sweet-vapes.com/shop?pag...color_plus.tpl&product_id=1104&category_id=21
Cartomizers
http://www.sweet-vapes.com/shop?pag..._color_plus.tpl&product_id=311&category_id=21
http://www.sweet-vapes.com/shop?pag...color_plus.tpl&product_id=1104&category_id=21
Cartomizers
- Status
