Prodigy/PS PT Users -- PLEASE READ -- Thank You
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I am a total novice when it comes to a multimeter. I purchased one, mainly out of curiosity and to know exactly which of my batteries need a charge, after reading through this thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/puresmoker/27394-multimeter-prodigy-how-do-i-test.html
Do you know how would I test the atomizers (I have the multimeter shown in the pic on that thread)?
Oh I appear to have figured it out.
With the BE112 (the atty that works with the prodigy), I placed the negative end at the base of the prodigy and the positive directly on the bridge. The reading (without discharging the switch) shows 0.27 - 0.29. When I discharge the switch I get 2.24.
With the attys from the original prodigy, I get 0.00 and 0.00.
So, fried attys?
With the BE112 (the atty that works with the prodigy), I placed the negative end at the base of the prodigy and the positive directly on the bridge. The reading (without discharging the switch) shows 0.27 - 0.29. When I discharge the switch I get 2.24.
With the attys from the original prodigy, I get 0.00 and 0.00.
So, fried attys?
haha ... hey rink
No, that's not how you test atomizers .....
Take your atomizer off ... Turn your Multimeter to read ohms .... Put the red (hot) probe on the center post (when the atomizer is turned upside down) and the black (ground) probe on the outside threads ... Should give you a reading in ohms somewhere in the range of 2 and 4 ohms
No, that's not how you test atomizers .....
Take your atomizer off ... Turn your Multimeter to read ohms .... Put the red (hot) probe on the center post (when the atomizer is turned upside down) and the black (ground) probe on the outside threads ... Should give you a reading in ohms somewhere in the range of 2 and 4 ohms
haha ... hey rink
No, that's not how you test atomizers .....
Take your atomizer off ... Turn your Multimeter to read ohms .... Put the red (hot) probe on the center post (when the atomizer is turned upside down) and the black (ground) probe on the outside threads ... Should give you a reading in ohms somewhere in the range of 2 and 4 ohms
Heh, see? I'm a total n00b when it comes to multimeters!
Anyhow, I pulled out the instruction manual that reads like a ...well, instruction manual and eventually figured out how to set it to read ohms.
I tested the known working atmizer- the BE112- and it read 2.6 ohms. Both the atomizers from the original prodigy kit, tested in the same fashion, read 0. Zero. Zip. Zippo. Ziltch.
I was careful not to touch the probes together.
So what would be the diagnosis?
901 PT - suicide in first minute
etc etc etc...
It turns out that if the adapter is screwed on "finger-tight", it can prevent the button from releasing itself. The adapter must be screwed on not quite fully. Too late for my PT, which is dead.
I received my replacement from Super Simon yesterday. I can screw the adapter on as tight as I like (which isn't very, cos I'm a weakling
), it does not prevent the button from popping up when released.That confirms that one or more of the components of the first one were a smidgen "out".
I could wish for a lighter weight cable, I'm mentally creating a cradle to hold the cable at the right angle but am sceptical about it materialising
Excellent vape, many thanks to PureSmoker Inc
(I haven't been able to restore power to my laptop's USB socket
)scylla
I received my replacement from Super Simon yesterday. I can screw the adapter on as tight as I like (which isn't very, cos I'm a weakling
That confirms that one or more of the components of the first one were a smidgen "out".
I could wish for a lighter weight cable, I'm mentally creating a cradle to hold the cable at the right angle but am sceptical about it materialising
Excellent vape, many thanks to PureSmoker Inc
(I haven't been able to restore power to my laptop's USB socket
scylla
Glad to hear your back in business Scylla.
Is this what your mentally creating? http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/puresmoker/28575-tame-wild-ps-usb-pass-through.html
Yeah, I figured as much. Looks like I'll need to get some more for later down the road. Thanks for the confirmation!
haha ... hey rink
No, that's not how you test atomizers .....
Take your atomizer off ... Turn your Multimeter to read ohms .... Put the red (hot) probe on the center post (when the atomizer is turned upside down) and the black (ground) probe on the outside threads ... Should give you a reading in ohms somewhere in the range of 2 and 4 ohms
Be sure the test leads are not touching each other when checking your attys as this would result in a 0 Ohm reading. Here is a visual aide...
You Michigan boyz sure are sumthin'
That's great for stopping it falling on the carpet where my mouse pees (so they say - they say they pee practically non-stop 8-o ).
I don't think there's a solution to the "drag" when vaping, it's the inflexibility + weight of the cable that causes that and even if I could drape the cable over something it would still feel awkward.
Great vape though!!! Roundabouts and swings, I expect.
scylla
GREAT PIC MAN!!
That is exactly what people need to see. When I first started testing attys with my multimeter (which is 30 years old) I was sticking the prongs down into my atty to touch the mesh.
It's good to be back on the board!
Brandon
That is exactly what people need to see. When I first started testing attys with my multimeter (which is 30 years old
) I was sticking the prongs down into my atty to touch the mesh.It's good to be back on the board!
Brandon
GREAT PIC MAN!!
That is exactly what people need to see. When I first started testing attys with my multimeter (which is 30 years old
It's good to be back on the board!
Brandon
LOL, sometimes a pic IS actually worth a thousand words.
These digital multimeters are truly weird!
An open circuit should read infinity, but these things read it as zero.
Zero ohms is a short, just the opposite!
Think I'll stick to my trusty old analog multimeter!
An open circuit should read infinity, but these things read it as zero.
Zero ohms is a short, just the opposite!
Think I'll stick to my trusty old analog multimeter!
Fiddler, Great catch! My "condensed statement" made in post #46 was a quickie reply that I can no longer edit, But is in fact wrong.
The correct statement should've been: "Zero Ohms = Short circuit = Dead Atty"
OL (Overload) or OR (out of range) on a digital multimeter indicates an open circuit = dead atty. 0.0V indicates a shorted circuit= dead atty
Thanks for the heads up.
Note to self: Don't reply to techinical posts while trying to wake up.
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I wish I had read this earlier.
I was blaming the atty's quality, when instead the adapter had shorted them (22 so far).
I'm sending both PT'S in for evaluation.
I'm done fiddling around with this stuff, and not knowing exactly what the cause is.
I was blaming the atty's quality, when instead the adapter had shorted them (22 so far).
I'm sending both PT'S in for evaluation.
I'm done fiddling around with this stuff, and not knowing exactly what the cause is.
Hugs, Quo (not that you look a particularly huggable character without one asking permission first ).
My replacement PT has not caused any problems - but vaping quality is variable because atty quality is variable. The trouble with e-cigs assembled from components is that one doesn't know which component to blame when things go wrong
I'm presently using a 510 atty with one of Imeo's adapters. It works fine but needs re-dripping frequently to cure the burnt taste that comes thru. Hence it quaffs rather a lot of juice so it's not cheap to run.
scylla
).My replacement PT has not caused any problems - but vaping quality is variable because atty quality is variable. The trouble with e-cigs assembled from components is that one doesn't know which component to blame when things go wrong
I'm presently using a 510 atty with one of Imeo's adapters. It works fine but needs re-dripping frequently to cure the burnt taste that comes thru. Hence it quaffs rather a lot of juice so it's not cheap to run.
scylla
Not as such, totally huggable.
Don't let my silly macho pictures fool you.
I hope soon that we will not have to worry about parts breaking or not performing.
It's all a question of how much money one is prepared to throw at a problem until it is solved.
Manufacturers have to do some QC though, and i'm sure as the history of Vaping progresses we will iron out all the bugs.
Unfortunately we are all in the preliminary curve of this technology and have to figure out what works with what.
It's definitely not a poor man's hobby this. Well worth it though.
I have learnt a lot that is over and beyond the context of simply vaping.
I have met some superb people on this site.
In the end, it's all about the people you get to meet, and how to enjoy vaping with them.
Don't let my silly macho pictures fool you.
I hope soon that we will not have to worry about parts breaking or not performing.
It's all a question of how much money one is prepared to throw at a problem until it is solved.
Manufacturers have to do some QC though, and i'm sure as the history of Vaping progresses we will iron out all the bugs.
Unfortunately we are all in the preliminary curve of this technology and have to figure out what works with what.
It's definitely not a poor man's hobby this. Well worth it though.
I have learnt a lot that is over and beyond the context of simply vaping.
I have met some superb people on this site.
In the end, it's all about the people you get to meet, and how to enjoy vaping with them.
Hugs, Quo (not that you look a particularly huggable character without one asking permission first
My replacement PT has not caused any problems - but vaping quality is variable because atty quality is variable. The trouble with e-cigs assembled from components is that one doesn't know which component to blame when things go wrong
I'm presently using a 510 atty with one of Imeo's adapters. It works fine but needs re-dripping frequently to cure the burnt taste that comes thru. Hence it quaffs rather a lot of juice so it's not cheap to run.
scylla
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