Protank 2 mini (v2) leaking -- to be expected? (plus mini-celebration!)

[diab0lik]

So I've been using protank 2 minis for a little while now. Have been very happy with performance and reliability overall -- save for a couple wacky kanger coils.

My only issue is that seemingly no matter what, I get a tiny amount of juice on my battery contact. It really is just a tiny amount (although I tried removing BOTH flavor wicks the other day on one and it was a mess), and I diligently clean it with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip, but it just keeps reappearing.

I read about people using the slightly larger o-rings included with the tank on the coil to avoid leaking. I tried this, and it seems to be marginally better, but still get a tiny bit of leaking. This was the one thing I liked about the ego-cc clearo I started on -- not possible to leak through onto the battery.

Anyway, any suggestions? I've tried tightening the coil down a bit less, but that doesn't seem to help much, and I've tried running the included o-ring with the other one on top and/or bottom of it, and that either didn't help or made it worse.

Is this just something I should learn to deal with using a BCC setup?


On a related note, I just built my first RBA today (kayfun 3.1 clone) -- successfully first time, at that, and have officially been off analogs for two weeks...haven't smoked one since my first vape! Many thanks to the ECF community for helping make this possible.

 

[amoret]

A little tiny bit of leaking is normal on these. I just use a cotton swab to wipe it out every now and then. It really doesn't hurt anything.

 

[porkchopbun]

Mine does same, especially with e-go style battery. For some reason, a lot less with my MVP


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[rucni]

hey diab0lik i have had the same issues with my PT2 and PT3's talked to my local shop and they suggested removing the stem at the top of the coil and adding some more wick material to the top of the coil to fill the gap between stem and coil. seems to be working for me. i have a ton of CE5 replacement coils so i just used them and trimmed to fit. i am sure there is another way to do it but it was a quick and easy fix that didnt cost my wife any more money.

 

[diab0lik]

hey diab0lik i have had the same issues with my PT2 and PT3's talked to my local shop and they suggested removing the stem at the top of the coil and adding some more wick material to the top of the coil to fill the gap between stem and coil. seems to be working for me. i have a ton of CE5 replacement coils so i just used them and trimmed to fit. i am sure there is another way to do it but it was a quick and easy fix that didnt cost my wife any more money.

Hmm, that's an idea at least. Having just tackled my first RBA, I was already planning to try to rebuild a kanger coil with cotton and see how that goes. Haven't seen a lot of feedback on rebuilt kanger heads with cotton, but after my experience with the kayfun so far, I will definitely be giving it a shot.

Thanks everybody else for confirming this isn't a big problem -- it's definitely not pooling in my 510 connection or anything, just one of those things in my brain that says electricity + liquid = bad. It's nothing more than a minor inconvenience at the moment, so as long as it's not abnormal, I can live with it.

 

[Art02]

Just one of those things in my brain that says electricity + liquid = bad. It's nothing more than a minor inconvenience at the moment, so as long as it's not abnormal, I can live with it.

Electricity + Liquid = Good

You must be using the old math.

 

[TXHDRider]

So I've been using protank 2 minis for a little while now. Have been very happy with performance and reliability overall -- save for a couple wacky kanger coils.

My only issue is that seemingly no matter what, I get a tiny amount of juice on my battery contact. It really is just a tiny amount (although I tried removing BOTH flavor wicks the other day on one and it was a mess), and I diligently clean it with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip, but it just keeps reappearing.

I read about people using the slightly larger o-rings included with the tank on the coil to avoid leaking. I tried this, and it seems to be marginally better, but still get a tiny bit of leaking. This was the one thing I liked about the ego-cc clearo I started on -- not possible to leak through onto the battery.

Anyway, any suggestions? I've tried tightening the coil down a bit less, but that doesn't seem to help much, and I've tried running the included o-ring with the other one on top and/or bottom of it, and that either didn't help or made it worse.

Is this just something I should learn to deal with using a BCC setup?


On a related note, I just built my first RBA today (kayfun 3.1 clone) -- successfully first time, at that, and have officially been off analogs for two weeks...haven't smoked one since my first vape! Many thanks to the ECF community for helping make this possible.

Mine did the same thing, whether on an ego twist, VV/VW Mod or a mech mod. Since I started rebuilding my coils, I get very little at all. I think adding more wicking material helped. What also helped was better insulators from Lightning Vapes. $6 for a ten pack. They are stiffer and don't collapse (which affects air draw), and they last for many rebuilds. My current Kanger coil build is as follows:

After thoroughly clean all parts:

2mm Ecko Wool
1mm Silica Flavor wick
32ga A-1 Kanthal (6 wraps)
New 3.5mm Insulator

I torch my 2mm ecko wool and let cool. Then I anneal my wire with a light torching just enough to make it glow, then cool. I use a small straightened paperclip inserted in the middle of my 2mm ecko wool, and do 6 wraps of my prepped piece of 32ga kanthal. I assemble the wick & wire & lower portion of the coil using a new insulator. Before in reinstall the chimney (as I call it) I lay a piece of 1mm silica wick material over the top of the new coil, and reinstall the chimney.. Then I trim the wicking material, and install the rubber piece over the top of the chimney and slide down flush where it should be. I then test my coil resistance on my tester, and my coils ohm out at 2.5ohm, give or take .2ohm. Once all assembled I insert into a spare Protank base and then attach to my VW Mod. I verify the resitance again, and then do a 5 second test burn.

That's it! I get no more gurgles, no excessive leakage from the bottom, and they last about 7-10 days for me. I wipe off the top of the coil at the rubber piece every time I refill my tanks, as well as run a thinned out q-tip down the center tube if the tank before reassembly after filling. They work great, and last a long time.

 

[diab0lik]

Mine did the same thing, whether on an ego twist, VV/VW Mod or a mech mod. Since I started rebuilding my coils, I get very little at all. I think adding more wicking material helped. What also helped was better insulators from Lightning Vapes. $6 for a ten pack. They are stiffer and don't collapse (which affects air draw), and they last for many rebuilds. My current Kanger coil build is as follows:

After thoroughly clean all parts:

2mm Ecko Wool
1mm Silica Flavor wick
32ga A-1 Kanthal (6 wraps)
New 3.5mm Insulator

I torch my 2mm ecko wool and let cool. Then I anneal my wire with a light torching just enough to make it glow, then cool. I use a small straightened paperclip inserted in the middle of my 2mm ecko wool, and do 6 wraps of my prepped piece of 28ga kanthal. I assemble the wick & wire & lower portion of the coil using a new insulator. Before in reinstall the chimney (as I call it) I lay a piece of 1mm silica wick material over the top of the new coil, and reinstall the chimney.. Then I trim the wicking material, and install the rubber piece over the top of the chimney and slide down flush where it should be. I then test my coil resistance on my tester, and my coils ohm out at 2.5ohm, give or take .2ohm. Once all assembled I insert into a spare Protank base and then attach to my VW Mod. I verify the resitance again, and then do a 5 second test burn.

That's it! I get no more gurgles, no excessive leakage from the bottom, and they last about 7-10 days for me. I wipe off the top of the coil at the rubber piece every time I refill my tanks, as well as run a thinned out q-tip down the center tube if the tank before reassembly after filling. They work great, and last a long time.

Thanks man -- even though I'm liking this cotton more and more, I'm going to give this a shot for sure -- good to know where I can find those insulators as well.

 

[TXHDRider]

Lightning Vapes has been a great source for all my RBA supplies. Good prices on wick & wire materials. I made a mistake in my original reply... I just want to clarify I use 32ga kanthal for my protanks & VV/VW mods, and 28ga for RBA's. My RBA's have all been sub ohm, and working so far, and because of that they are used exclusively on my mech mods due to the low resistance.

 

[diab0lik]

Lightning Vapes has been a great source for all my RBA supplies. Good prices on wick & wire materials. I made a mistake in my original reply... I just want to clarify I use 32ga kanthal for my protanks & VV/VW mods, and 28ga for RBA's. My RBA's have all been sub ohm, and working so far, and because of that they are used exclusively on my mech mods due to the low resistance.

Yeah I actually figured out I bought my kanthal from them off ebay. I think I actually saw rip tripper (insert 'the best _____ ever jokes here) did a PT2 rebuild with 12 wraps of 28ga kanthal (~1.8) and cotton, might give that a shot as well.

 

[TXHDRider]

pbusardo and Rip Tripper are both two excellent sources of consistent device reviews, coil building, whatever. Great guys with a lot of knowledge to pass on.