Protank Rebuild Advice

[gpx114]

I am just starting to look into rebuilding my protanks, and have some questions about what to buy.

First, my primary device is the Vamo V2, which has a cutoff at 1.3 ohms IIRC. My target resistence is anywhere from 1.8 to 2.2 ohms.

I am not a tinkerer, and I am always out on the road. For that reason, I don't think RBAs and/or mechanical mods are a good fit for me.

I used to prefer the much warmer vape of top-coils, but my need for the heat has probably died a little in the past several months that I've gotten used to the Protanks.

Given the above, should I get the 30AWG or the 32AWG Kanthal? I know that 32AWG should hit my target resistence (3mm silica, no flavor wicks) with roughly 4/3 wraps. Or should I get the 30AWG for more flexibilty, more wraps (and more contact with the wick), and possibly experimenting with micro coils? From reading other posts, it seems that 30AWG is more suitable for mechanical mods with a target resistance closer to 1.3 to 1.5 ohms -- will I be able to fit enough wraps into a Protank head to reach ~2 ohms?

I am also considering the Kanthal ribbon. Again, many people shooting for lower resistances are using the 0.5mm ribbon. Can I get enough wraps with 0.5mm ribbon in a Protank, or should I find a vendor for 0.3mm?

Finally, concerning Silica: I do plan on buying 3mm silica. But, I would also like to experiment with Ekowool. Do I get the 2mm hollow Ekowool?

Thanks!

 

[Chas F.]

I built my fist one over the weekend. I use 3mm silica and 32 ga kanthal with 4/5 wraps. Came out at 1.6 ohms. I've yet to try ecowool but I'm interested in trying new things.

 

[Boiler]

32 is more fragile, thicker wire will last longer. 6 wraps of 30 gives me ~1.6 ohms with room to spare. I just use cotton wicks. They last ~3-5 days then I just pull it out and thread another through the coil (not as easy with silica or ekowool). Coils can last a good month or more.

 

[gpx114]

I can see how it would be easy to pull out the cotton, as it probably tears apart easy. Threading it back in, on the other hand... Do you need to remove the coil from the head to do so?

 

[Truncheon]

I can see how it would be easy to pull out the cotton, as it probably tears apart easy. Threading it back in, on the other hand... Do you need to remove the coil from the head to do so?

i rewick my protank/evod heads with cotton, and i don't remove the coil from the head, unless i'm installing a whole new coil.

i just lightly twist my cotton into a wick shape, and twist one end down tightly to a point, doubling it over if there's a stray cotton fiber or two. gently feed the cotton wick thru the coils, taking care not to pull the coil out of shape. if i have too much cotton, i start over and pull a little bit of the cotton out of my wick to thin it out, and try to thread it thru again. adjust the coil wires if necessary, cut off excess cotton, snap on the tube cap, and bob's your uncle. freshly wicked cotton atty.

 

[Boiler]

I can see how it would be easy to pull out the cotton, as it probably tears apart easy. Threading it back in, on the other hand... Do you need to remove the coil from the head to do so?

Nope, just twist it until its skinny enough to fit through the coil and it will fluff out and expand with juice to fit perfectly.

Curse you truncheon

 

[gpx114]

So, 30AWG it is!

Anyone have any advice on Kanthal ribbon and Ekowool?

 

[Taylor7617]

32 is more fragile, thicker wire will last longer. 6 wraps of 30 gives me ~1.6 ohms with room to spare. I just use cotton wicks. They last ~3-5 days then I just pull it out and thread another through the coil (not as easy with silica or ekowool). Coils can last a good month or more.

So....is there a way to tell when a coil is bad other than it stops firing?

i rewick my protank/evod heads with cotton, and i don't remove the coil from the head, unless i'm installing a whole new coil.

i just lightly twist my cotton into a wick shape, and twist one end down tightly to a point, doubling it over if there's a stray cotton fiber or two. gently feed the cotton wick thru the coils, taking care not to pull the coil out of shape. if i have too much cotton, i start over and pull a little bit of the cotton out of my wick to thin it out, and try to thread it thru again. adjust the coil wires if necessary, cut off excess cotton, snap on the tube cap, and bob's your uncle. freshly wicked cotton atty.

I've just watched a handful of YouTube Videos on this. Seems easy enough. Do you put another strand on top of the one you thread through the coil? Similar to the flavor wicks that come on the stock head? I use 60-70 PG fluids....would I need the extra material for wicking to prevent flooding the coil?

This seems like a way to save some $$$ versus tossing a coil when the stock wicks get so gunked up burnt.

Last question, best place to buy the cotton? Is this like from cotton balls or cotton yarn? Does any of this need boiled..what kind doesn't?

 

[IMFire3605]

Well, 32ga standard kanthal or 30ga standard kanthal is more suited to Kanger Bottom Coils, ribbon you have to fiddle with on final assembly so it doesn't get wedged in and cut the insulator grommet that sepperates the positive and negative leads. I use 2mm silica or ekowool in most my rebuilds with 1mm silica floaters on top, but 3mm silica will work good. I generally wrap 5/6 micro-coil on 32ga which gives me about a 1.6 to 2.1 ohm coil, 30ga 7/8 or 6/7 gives me about the same range up to 2.5 ohms some times. The 32 will heat up faster, where the 30ga takes a bit more to match, though is a better vape over the 32 as it covers more surface on the wick.

For cotton wick, Walmart offers Peaches and Cream cotton yarn that is pretty much 100% organic cotton, just remember to boil it before use, and don't ever dry burn it or you will cause a nice little inferno inside your coil chamber.

 

[Taylor7617]

Sorry...........figured I'd add some more questions here. Going to start with re-wicking then move to rebuilding the coils shortly thereafter.

1) Does cotton leave a cleaner flavor or possibly different than the stock silica (assuming that is what is being used)?
2) Assume the coil can still be dry burned (with our without) the cotton wick to clean all the gunk off of it?
3) Can the whole coil be rinsed out / soaked in vodka to reuse for a different flavor as I currently do with stock units?
4) Is there a tell when the cotton wick is toast? Ex...burnt edges?
5) Is there a proper tool or guide (say drill bit or other) to get correct diameter of wrap of ProTanks (not the mini)?
6) I'd like to be in the 2+ ohm range. Would that be 30ga wire @ 7 wraps get to this or would I have to use a diff gauge wire?
7) Where's the best place to get the wire?



Sorry for all the questions........just trying to learn to save me some coin!
Thanks!!!

 

[JayTater]

I've found that butchers twine works very well for cotton wick also. Depending on the diameter of your coils, you just pull away strands off of the twine. Its not as easy to feed through the coil as the Wal Mart Peaches and Cream yarn though.

You will know without doubt when the cotton is toasted, your tasters will scream at you.

As for rinsing out a head, its easiest to just toss and rewick for flavor changes. The cotton does not tend to last very long in the Kanger atty's.

NEVER attempt to dry burn with a cotton wick in the coil... It will BURN. Dry burn the naked coil.

There is an app for coil wrapping. It will guide you through what gauge wire, amount of wraps for target resistance. Check up OHMS law also.

I get my wire through eBay. Good pricing and quick shipping.

 

[TFL!]

You might want to read this post on rebuild pro tanks. good info.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...h-protank-ii-resistance-coil-wrap-counts.html

 

[crazyandy]

I just recently started rebuilding mine. I use a 28 awg wire. the kanthal is better imo. the nicad gives a metallic taste for a while. only tried the silica wick but I have heard of people using cotton. what works for me is doubling up on the wick then wrapping 6 or 7 times. then when assembling I put a third wick before installing top post. this gets my wick to 2.2 to 2.4 ohms pretty easily. best thing for rebuilding is a tool I found at harbor freight for $3 called helping hands. 2 adjustable alligator clips on a stand that is completely adjustable and a magnifying glass on it.

 

[yo419g0tamin]

If you need any other information on this don't hesitate to ask.

This build is for puritank/protank/evod coil heads they are all the same.

 

[yo419g0tamin]

Here is an update video also.

 

[Zak Rabbit]

I really like the hollow Ekowool because I can slip the drill bit inside it when I wind the coil. I use a 1/16 drill bit and I would recommend the 30g kanthal.

Sent via the guys that made Star Trek low tech.

 

[Shinu77]

I really like the hollow Ekowool because I can slip the drill bit inside it when I wind the coil. I use a 1/16 drill bit and I would recommend the 30g kanthal.

Sent via the guys that made Star Trek low tech.

Where do you buy your ekowool?

 

[khantron]

are there any guides out there on learning step by step rebuilds?

 

[yo419g0tamin]

are there any guides out there on learning step by step rebuilds?

I just posted 2 videos on step by step instructions for rebuilding micro coils with cotton on puritank/protank/evod/davide coil heads.

 

[Zak Rabbit]

Where do you buy your ekowool?

Kidneypuncher

Sent via the guys that made Star Trek low tech.