Provari issue!

[davidperry1987]

I've only had my Provari for about a week and it's been great until the past couple days...

I use a protank 2 with the airflow control valve. Yesterday after I changed batteries the unit have me the e1 error and wouldn't fire. I put the protank and valve on my other mod and it fired fine... So I took the airflow base off and used the original and it fired.

So I changed batteries back and all of a sudden it worked with the airflow valve. Fast forward a couple hours and I change juice then have the same issue! Now nothing I do will make it work with the airflow valve. I'm thinking maybe the pin got pushed down a little? The threads on the airflow valve seem a little shorter than the standard.

Any ideas?? I hate the protank with out the valve


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[lulu836]

That happened to me earlier today. I think maybe the insulator on the coil is corrupted. Makes sense because it changes every time I unscrewed it and put it back in the AFC. I trashed the coil and head and just got another one. AFC, PT and Provari all playing happily together now. Kanger has a lot of imitators and just because the head/coil says Kanger on the box doesn't mean it's not a knock off.

 

[davidperry1987]

But the whole setup works on my other vv mod so it's not that. I did change out the head just in case but didn't help


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[Rickajho]

PT's and Provari's not playing nicely is a known issue. There is something about the 510 connector being ever so slightly too long that causes contact problems with several devices. I'll leave it up to one of the experienced Provari users to suggest the appropriate correction for this one.

 

[WorksForMe]

Sounds like AFC is screwed up. Fortunately their pretty cheap. I keep waiting for a good qualty American made tank similar to the Protank2.

J.R.

 

[lulu836]

PT's and Provari's not playing nicely is a known issue.

That may be true (or not) but I've used them on 2 mechs, 3 Vamos, 4 Sigelies, a pot load of eGos and both Provarii with no problem whatsoever except that one mentioned so I guess YMMV is appropriate.

 

[Moodyfisherman]

On the AFC sometimes I need to push it down (away from the threads) with a blunt object, because it is not fixed and can be pushed into the AFC body....

 

[WorksForMe]

On the AFC sometimes I need to push it down (away from the threads) with a blunt object, because it is not fixed and can be pushed into the AFC body....

That's true, and if you tighten it down on the Provari too much, it will push up on the Protank battery pin and compress the insulator.

 

[lulu836]

That's true, and if you tighten it down on the Provari too much, it will push up on the Protank battery pin and compress the insulator.

That makes even more sense.

 

[davidperry1987]

On the AFC sometimes I need to push it down (away from the threads) with a blunt object, because it is not fixed and can be pushed into the AFC body....

So you just push down from the inside? It's not working for me... Do you need a lot of force?


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[WorksForMe]

On the AFC sometimes I need to push it down (away from the threads) with a blunt object, because it is not fixed and can be pushed into the AFC body....

I need to try that. I knew the AFC pin could push up on the coil, but I didn't think about it staying pushed in.

I put a rubber o-ring in the drip well around the 510 connection on my Provari. It sticks up a little higher than the Provari end cap, and helps keep me from tightening down the AFC too much. It makes the Protank feel less wobbly too.

J.R.

 

[davidperry1987]

Figured it out! It was too tight and messing with the pin. I stopped using that Provari 'tank ring' because it kept falling off... But the ring kept the tank from screwing too tight by like a mm


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[lulu836]

It makes the Protank feel less wobbly too.

Your PT is wobbly? I've had that problem with other PVs but the PT2 w/AFC is solid as a rock on both Provarii (plural of Provari ) I also find the "beauty ring" to be totally worthless. It stays very loose and just rattles around like a BB in a tin cup. YMMV

 

[Mark Anthony]

On the AFC sometimes I need to push it down (away from the threads) with a blunt object, because it is not fixed and can be pushed into the AFC body....

Yep.... Had this happen to me once on my Provari. This is exactly how I fixed it. It's been fine ever since.

 

[Tamer El-Meehy]

Unscrew your tank slightly...just a slight nudge would do


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[WorksForMe]

Your PT is wobbly? I've had that problem with other PVs but the PT2 w/AFC is solid as a rock on both Provarii (plural of Provari ) I also find the "beauty ring" to be totally worthless. It stays very loose and just rattles around like a BB in a tin cup. YMMV

It seemed a little wobbly(maybe I'm just paranoid) unless I tightened down the AFC pretty tight. I figured doing that was compressing the insulator on my coils. Since I put an o-ring under the AFC, I can tighten it down enough to stop the wobble. There is a tiny gap between the AFC and the Provari end cap, but I'm probably the only one that notices.

I don't know yet if the o-ring fixes my compressed insulator problem. I hope so.

J.R.

 

[lulu836]

It seemed a little wobbly(maybe I'm just paranoid) unless I tightened down the AFC pretty tight. I figured doing that was compressing the insulator on my coils. Since I put an o-ring under the AFC, I can tighten it down enough to stop the wobble. There is a tiny gap between the AFC and the Provari end cap, but I'm probably the only one that notices.

I don't know yet if the o-ring fixes my compressed insulator problem. I hope so.

J.R.

Tightening the AFC down a lot gave me some problems with removing it with the topper. I tend to not make it really tight but even then it doesn't wobble. I trashed the head that shorted on me so I won't be able to try your fix unless it happens again. The gaps don't bother me since they seem at times to be a necessary evil.