Provari user just now diving into mechanicals!

[brickfollett]

Hey guys, I'm a 6 month lover of my Provari. Didn't want to bother with the fancy new DNA30 mods, and want something that can deliver awesome power. I just ordered an Infinite Stingray clone in brass off ebay for 40 bucks. Very excited. Did a fair amount of research on the different clone manufacturers and Infinite seems to be the top pick. I already have a pair of AW IMR 18650's that I use in the Provari and my E-LVT.

The question I have is, what are the pro's and cons between the Sony VTC5 batteries and the AW-IMR 18650 batteries? From what I understand, AW-IMR's get pretty dang hot when a short happens, but they don't vent. Is this a similar experience from the VTC5's?

Also, how safe are my microcoiled SS mesh builds going to be? I do this on my Pyrex RSST, and the ohms come out 2.4 ohms. They have a lot of shorts when pulsing and occasionally short when using the Provari, to which I just get a simple error code. Once this happens, I whip out my car keys, fiddle with the coils a tiny bit and it's usually good to go. Is this a no-no when using a mechanical? I understand ohms laws and battery safety pretty well and plan on tacking many research hours to my day on battery safety etc before receiving the Stingray. My dome atomizer clone should be a blast on this thing, with quad coil capability on a genesis, I may very well go broke from all the juice I'm going through. What do you guys think?

 

[Wickeddeuce]

Hey guys, I'm a 6 month lover of my Provari. Didn't want to bother with the fancy new DNA30 mods, and want something that can deliver awesome power. I just ordered an Infinite Stingray clone in brass off ebay for 40 bucks. Very excited. Did a fair amount of research on the different clone manufacturers and Infinite seems to be the top pick. I already have a pair of AW IMR 18650's that I use in the Provari and my E-LVT.

The question I have is, what are the pro's and cons between the Sony VTC5 batteries and the AW-IMR 18650 batteries? From what I understand, AW-IMR's get pretty dang hot when a short happens, but they don't vent. Is this a similar experience from the VTC5's?

Also, how safe are my microcoiled SS mesh builds going to be? I do this on my Pyrex RSST, and the ohms come out 2.4 ohms. They have a lot of shorts when pulsing and occasionally short when using the Provari, to which I just get a simple error code. Once this happens, I whip out my car keys, fiddle with the coils a tiny bit and it's usually good to go. Is this a no-no when using a mechanical? I understand ohms laws and battery safety pretty well and plan on tacking many research hours to my day on battery safety etc before receiving the Stingray. My dome atomizer clone should be a blast on this thing, with quad coil capability on a genesis, I may very well go broke from all the juice I'm going through. What do you guys think?

cant help you on the genny side of things, pure dripper here... look below and youll see why

but as far as the batteries go, depending on which batts you have, im assuming you have the 2000 mah since you run a regulated, i believe the amp limit on those is like 10 amps iirc... which limits you to getting to about .5 ohms with your current batteries, also the amount of time that the battery stays above 3.7v is key too, you dont want to drain em too low, as you vape will suffer and so will the batt... and most people find they swap batts at 3.7... the 1600mah aw imr stay above 3.7 longer than the 2000mah... now what is the advantage of the sony vtc5s... they have the highest mah to amp limit ratio of 18650s and we are talking continuous not pulse...

pretty much the sonys you get 30 amps, so you can get down below .2 ohms safely, and lots of mah so not much swapping batts...

idk... i have rambled slightly... but here is a little input in regards to batteries for mechanicals...

oh yeah btw... nice to see a provarinati venturing into the mechanical world i kid i kid... kinda...

friends? lol

 

[Baditude]

I have a Silver Bullet mechanical and three Provari's.

I use a Kayfun Lite Plus rebuildable atomizer tank and two AGA-T genesis-style rebuildable tanks. Big fan of the Kayfun as it is not position dependent and gives the best flavor using cotton wick. Not a fan of the genesis-style RBA's because of I'm not a fan of SS mesh, the position dependency (leak when not kept upright) and having to do the "genny tilt" each time I take a vape.

Resistance wise, the Provari will fire a 1.2 ohm coil just fine, just don't go over 3.4 volts.

With the mechanical mod, the resistance range is wide open, including resistance less than 1.0 ohm. Just don't go over the battery's amp limit. Use the Ohm's Law Calculator to determine this. List of common-recommended high drain batteries and their amp limits here: Battery Basics for Mods

 

[brickfollett]

Haha sure. although I won't be changing my profile picture in the near future, I can guarantee you that. To me, it sounds like the VTC5 is a great all around battery. I do have a Trident V2 clone which I love, but the provari has a hard time firing dual coils. Too much spool time. A single 32 gauge microcoil does nicely though. I do intend to subohm a little bit, but nothing extreme. I cant see myself dipping below .5 honestly. I have 26, 28 and 32 gauge kanthal, 100' of each, so I'm good to go there.

Also, it sounds to me like the Stingray is not compatible with the kick. Not a big deal for me though, if I want regulation, the trusty Provari can come out and play with the Stringray. I've certainly been able to produce giant clouds with my Pyrex RSST off the Provari.

How do you know when to change batteries on a mech? Is the difference in vape so noticeable to the point where I'll just be able to tell by the quality of the vape?

 

[brickfollett]

I have a Silver Bullet mechanical and three Provari's.

I use a Kayfun Lite Plus rebuildable atomizer tank and two AGA-T genesis-style rebuildable tanks. Big fan of the Kayfun as it is not position dependent and gives the best flavor. Not a fan of the genesis-style RBA's because of the position dependency (leak when not kept upright) and having to do the "genny tilt" each time I take a vape.

Resistance wise, the Provari will fire a 1.2 ohm coil just fine, just don't go over 3.4 volts.

With the mechanical mod, the resistance range is wide open. Just don't go over the battery's amp limit. Use the Ohm's Law Calculator to determine this.

Thanks bad, haha yep, I'm familiar with your love of the kayfun. I have a Russian 91% which I've done more builds and certainly more complex builds than I have on the Pyrex RSST. Chimney coil, dual coil, SS mesh, microcoil, non microcoil. The flavor is fantastic but the alternating leakage and dry hits almost always seem to plague me. Just something about it I can't put my finger on. None of those issues on the RSST. I can pop my top cap off and have a look-see at what the heck is going on under the hood while on the fly if something happens to go wrong.

That said, I'm not necessarily buying the mech for genny's. They perform quite nicely on the Provari, I'll be acquiring some better drippers in the near future. My Trident V2 does the job pretty dang well. Actually, I think I'm gonna go swap the RSST for that bad boy right now =]

Edit: Also, really have my eye on the AL-1 Genesis atomizer. Very slick looking piece. Very excited for my Dome genny clone to arrive though. Fasttech is slooow

 

[brickfollett]

Ordered a pair of Sony VTC5 batteries last night and a shiny new nitecore intellicharger (4 bay version) to accompany them. If I want to have the safest batteries, I want a better charger than my TR-001. Also, I'm building up a significant stock of batteries and am finding the 2 bay charger to be full more and more frequently

 

[Loopy1224]

Excellent thread especially since i am in the same boat as you Brick. I love my Provari too but sometimes i feel like i need something more. I have a mech and RDA on order along with 3 VT5s. I've been boning up on battery safety too. Here's too hoping we don't blow ourselves up!!!

Hope you like ur mech and dripper.


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[Wickeddeuce]

Excellent thread especially since i am in the same boat as you Brick. I love my Provari too but sometimes i feel like i need something more. I have a mech and RDA on order along with 3 VT5s. I've been boning up on battery safety too. Here's too hoping we don't blow ourselves up!!!

Hope you like ur mech and dripper.


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Beware, once you begin to drip, everything else begins to feel inferior...

 

[Baditude]

Beware, once you begin to drip, everything else begins to feel inferior...

Not always true. I find dripping to be cumbersome & inconvenient. Also, don't drip & drive.

 

[Wickeddeuce]

Not always true. I find dripping to be cumbersome & inconvenient. Also, don't drip & drive.

true, this is not the case for everyone, however in my experience, and from what i have heard from some other vapers, for some dripping makes other things less appealing... is this a more accurate way to express?

and yes please do not drip and drive... if you truly fall for dripping and cant get away from dripping, please get a bottom feeding mod, or a 3D to not drip and drive...

 

[brickfollett]

Haha thanks guys. I am guilty of dripping and driving. I usually find myself going for my genesis out and about. I love the crisp flavor from mesh, and the vape production from a microcoiled mesh build is amazing. Today was actually the first day my trident was producing more than ms rsst

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[HawaiiVPR]

true, this is not the case for everyone, however in my experience, and from what i have heard from some other vapers, for some dripping makes other things less appealing... is this a more accurate way to express?

and yes please do not drip and drive... if you truly fall for dripping and cant get away from dripping, please get a bottom feeding mod, or a 3D to not drip and drive...

Convenience aside, vapor production and flavor is unmatched with a properly wicked/coiled RDA, so yes, I am one of those that finds many "other things" very unappealing now

 

[ukeman]

I was a Provari fan since they first came out, but gave them up over 2 years ago when I got into purely mechanicals and sub ohms.

I gave up genesis atomizers at least a year ago... you don't have to sacrifice the benefits of dripping (better flavor) if you get a drip/tank type of atomizer... I guess the list is quite long on those, but I have my favorite now and I wish i had gotten 2 of them because they are damn hard to get today; the Prometey2. holds a couple ml which is not a lot, but much better than a straight up dripper.
Another hard to get from the same maker is the Gryphon which is a smaller diameter and holds a ml.
There are others that lots like. the ones i could list from memory are:
Aqua, Kayfun, Kayfun lite, Spheroid (which is like the Prometey), and many spin offs and clones.

I just ordered a Fakir's Mods Troy X which holds more juice (i think) and has the same type of central air post under the coil as my Ti Prom and Gryphon.. I swear by that design.

As for mech devices, everybody is talking about the Stingray clones, and i hope you get a good one but it appears the button switch is a crap shoot.
It gets its raves because 1. the design of the top and bottom cap is similar (not the same but close) to the Nemesis. 2. apparently good conductivity which = low voltage drop.

I swear by the Nemesis (brass or aluminum) because with the magnet upgrade, the button/switch is the most trouble free of any and i've had close to a doz. different high end mechs. They will hit all day and night and the next day just like the day before with no fuss. period.
I have 2 Naval Brass Nemesis and 3 brass Neme clones, and just ordered a copper Neme.

I have gotten so close to ordering an Infinite of Hcigar stingray clone because i've never seen a switch that matches the Neme, but for every one that works great, there's those that the button sucks.

I like performance and i like it trouble free. The neme brass clones are hard to beat and for the price its insane (FT $17 shipped) slaps head.

 

[HawaiiVPR]

I always find it interesting how everyone lands on a particular favorite setup/device especially when you look back a few months or year in some cases where they were vaping something completely different. I guess therein lies the big attraction to vaping, so many different variations to try, or not, depending on what you like.

Going back the OP regarding battery safety and shorting, have you considered using a kick2? I think its the easiest route to go if you are working your way into unregulated mods, but very concerned about battery safety since you mentioned you have frequent shorts on your RSST.

BTW, what resistance are you using on your Trident?

 

[WattWick]

There are short circuits, and there are dead shorts. You are not very likely to encounter dead shorts as long as your current flows trough at least some length of coil before shorting on your wick. That's when you get a hotspot. Not something you'll want to vape through. Keep feeding current through it, and your coil will snap... unless you use heavy gauge kanthal.

You will most likely find yourself going lower than 2.4 ohms with a mech. If you stick to microcoils, you will probably find that they have less of a chance of shorting out. Something-something about how the compressed coils makes current flow easier through the coil, and less likely to jump to your wick.

You may or may not have to hone your mesh skills a little. I'm guessing you'll have no problem getting it to work. While working out hotspots on the initial setup, we are working with a shorter circuit. However, not a dead short. Unless you go all crazy and try to brute force your way through it, you should have no worries about your batteries. Just pulse poke and prod. You'll be fine

 

[Loopy1224]

For now at least i plan on dripping at home in my man cave. Of course when I started vaping i was pretty sure my Ego battery and starter kit tank would be all i ever needed!


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[B1sh0p]

Welcome. Once you start dripping on a mech, you'll be selling that Provari and Kayfun. I'd have a good rotation of 4-6 batteries. Just change the battery when you get a drop off in vapor production. You'll know. Make sure to keep your contacts clean.

 

[Ryedan]

Also, how safe are my microcoiled SS mesh builds going to be? I do this on my Pyrex RSST, and the ohms come out 2.4 ohms. They have a lot of shorts when pulsing and occasionally short when using the Provari, to which I just get a simple error code. Once this happens, I whip out my car keys, fiddle with the coils a tiny bit and it's usually good to go. Is this a no-no when using a mechanical?

I've used a AGA-T with SS mesh a lot over the last year. I've used MNKE 20A and now Sony 30A batteries. I setup the AGA-T at about 0.6 ohms so around 6.3A with a full charge (about 3.8V under load). I only torch the SS wick enough to burn off any oil left on it and oxidize by pulsing the coil. I have never had a problem with my batteries. I think with the RSST and its insulated wick hole you should put even less stress on the battery than I do.

I also 'bump' the coils if they are a bit stubborn about getting rid of shorts. That's standard operating procedure for a lot of people AFAIK.

Vape on.

 

[tj99959]

I have lots of mechanical mods, and a selection of toppers that would choke a horse. But, my Provari isn't going anywhere ... it just works too well. (and yes, it has a dripper on it)

 

[Wickeddeuce]

I'm not saying any one thing is bad... I just prefer mech because the regulated I would need to reach my happy are either rare or expensive... Or may have technical difficulties down the line.

I like a nice dual set up between the 40 and 50 watt range...

I have had a vape that was in the 100 watt range on a 26650 mod, and I did like it, however aside from the visual difference and the temperature difference, I didn't really notice anything else that was a big enough difference...

So I've currently settled on the .3 to .35 ohm range. And really really enjoy watching other people take a vape on my set up... The reactions (of non sub ohm vapers or smokers) are priceless...

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