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Provari vs Vamo, credits to gdeal and grimmtech

Vamo or provari?

  • Vamo

  • Provari

  • other VV/VW


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alvinado

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Here is a reason for the newbies why the Provari is better, yes I am a Provari fanboy but I have my reasons. I am a fan of Mech mods and the only vv/vw mod I keep is the Provari. Here's the reason why. And for guys who think that you need the VW functions, you don't!

Voltage and Power are correlated and controlled by resistance and current. Even if you keep the wattage at let say, 8 watts, and contrary to popular belief, you will not get the same vape for different attys as the variables are different.. read the article below by gdeal!

Watts do not matter. Its all about wire temp. Read on…


Yes that’s right.


Watts as means for communicating a best vape, or preferred vape only matters if the same product, with same consistent reproducible criteria is compared. Some commercial products have semi-adequate quality control that permit, to a limited extent, such comparisons. Juice type, juice viscosity and a host of other factors such as tank pressure, airflow etc can affect these comparisons as well.


While we have all these factors, for modders and those that use genny type attys there is desire to understand and reproduce one person’s set-up and compare to our own results independent of hardware.


There is a growing trend to look toward watts as a way to further refine our ability to explain how to set-up a certain configuration on a mod or atty. I can’t tell you how many post I have read that one person has a sweet spot at 8 watts or another that likes to vape at an “unbelievable” 20 watts. This is a good direction but does not get to the heart of the matter.


What I believe is important to understand is how much power is being applied to our coils and the temperature at the wire level. And more specifically how much power (and how temperature) is being delivered over the length of a coil and the wick.


Let me explain further with an example.


A 5 wrap 32g coil and an 11 wrap 28g coil can provide about ~8.5 watts when we apply 4.1v to the 32g and 3.8v to the 28g.
While 28g requires a bit more amps to drive the same watt level, the amp requirement of 28g can be up to 2x of the 32g to achieve the same wire temperature.


Yes, a 28g wire will be cooler at the same power levels (watt) compared to a 32g wire. (even more so with wick material and juice heat sink.)
So while we are not able to reasonable measure wire temperature with current technology we can advance our discussion, using empirical data to refine our thinking.


Let’s compare a 28g coil on a genny vs a 32g coil on a genny.


I am using a “Chud”. A $15 buck chinese mystery metal apparatus that has a wick hole of ~2.5mm. I am using #500 SS mesh so we eliminate wicking issues.


Using the same wick for both set ups I created a 28g 11 wrap coil for 1.7 ohm and a 32g 5 wrap coil for 2.0 ohm both have the same interwire distance (coil pitch).


The 28g produces 8.5 watts at 3.8v and 10.4 watts at 4.2v
The 32g produces 8.4 watts at 4.1v and 10.4 watts at 4.5v


So while we can match watts on each coil with volts. The 28g coil covers more than 2x the wick surface than a 32g coil.


If we look at power distributed over the wire:
The 28g coil has 90mm wire length and 32g coil is 41mm


So for 28g we have:
.09 watts per mm at 8.4 watts total power output, and
.12 watts per mm at 10.4 watts watts total power output


For 32g the coil:
.20 watts per mm at 8.5 watts total power output
.25 watts per mm at 10.4 watts total power output


Right now, technology does not allow us to feasible determine real life live wire temp. But, from my subjective experience, I get more vapor, more consistent taste from the 28g coil at the same wattage but lower wire temperature. I can even say that at 14 watts (I am using a Provari so I am limited) that the 28g coil producing .15 watts per mm is more robust than 8.5 watts on a 32g coil at .20 watts per mm and the .25 watt per mm at a total of 10 watts.


I believe the reason for this is the thermal zone created around the wire to create vaporization. With 28g you are applying less power per mm but over a larger coiled area. With 32g you need to apply greater power to increase the thermal zone to force more vaporization. However, temperature is not distributed evenly over the thermal zone with the example 32g and 28g coils. Temperature diminishes along its radial projection. So while you are gaining a larger vaporization zone around the wire by increasing power, the variance in temperature is greater. The more you up power on the 32g the larger the gradient and the more likelihood you will burn the juice closer to your coil. If you have a higher gradient of temperature ranges you will have a more vapor, but it will be a mix of “burnt” taste and just right taste. With 28g vs 32g you can achieve a similar wire temp, but given our atty parameter restrictions, you can achieve a tighter more consistent temperature zone with a larger/longer 28g coil.


So what about those gonzo vaporers who are tricked out at 20 watts? For example, let say they are using 28g with 6 wrap coil for 1.0 ohm resistance. First, they have to have a power source to be able to deliver 4.5 amps. So how are they doing from a power on wire perspective? Based upon coil calcs for this example, their coiled wire is about 49mm. So they are putting .4 watts per mm on the wire. That twice almost twice the power of the 32g wire! How are they not burning their juice? Well thicker wire requires more amps to reach the same operating temperature.


While I only have a source for Nicrome wire temps. (Resistance Wire.Com | Nickel Chrome, Nickel Copper, and Iron Chrome Aluminum Alloys from Stock), I assume that a similar coefficient exist for Kanthal. I assume to some extent the same principle applies. For Nichrome it is ~2x. So if the same principle exists for Kanthal, they are really using the 32g equivalent of .2 watts per mm on the wire. Probable less of a mix of “burnt” taste and just right taste than 32g, because their vaporization zone will be more dense, produce vapor quicker and their “power-on” time will be less.


Now that a majority of readers have their eyes glazing over…the short of my take-aways are:



  • More coil on wick = better
  • More consistent/lower coil temp = better
  • 28g coil for coil/watt for watt better than 32g

These are just rambling musings while I wait in the aftermath of Sandy for my power to come back on. Thank god I have a portable generator to keep my batteries charged. If this post is incoherent, blame the ethanol that did not make it into my ejuice for dilution/throat hit.


I am sure that the “veterans” on this forum can explain this better (and more concisely) and even point out the short comings of my logic.


I guess the inquiry here is that perhaps there is a technical solution that is beyond my education and experience and how do we build this into our devices.
 

alvinado

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Here's the article comparing the vamo to the provari, no fight! Coupled with the article on the post before on wire temps, the 37hz on and off of the vamo will give you a less consistent vape and even burnt taste caused by inconsistent firing (read on to find out why!) and the constant on and off which creates less of a thermal zone for the coils to vaporize the liquid. Compare that to a provari, 800hz (cycles per second), is almost instantaneous fire and will have not issues creating the thermal zone

Was discussed a bit on another thread. We know the Vamo fires at 37hz and the Provari at 800hz. Here is something I found that Ill bet not many know. Every Vamo pulse is at 6v. Each time it fires (37 times a second) this is what it does. How it achieves different voltages is how long it stays on vs how long its off. You will see in the following pictures (oscope set to 2v per square) that at 3v, the vamo fires 6v 50% of the time, at 4.5v it fires 6v 75% of the time, and at 6v it fires about 95-97% of the time. The provari fires so often that at slower time stamps, it looks like a solid line. When it fires @ 3v, its 3v. When 4.5 its 4.5 so forth and so on. The line actually goes up and down the scale with voltage instead of making an average out of 6 and 0v. I did manage to get a good look at the ProV's pulses with a little adjusting. I had it down to .2V per square making the voltage varriation only in the neighborhood of .05v. And it does this 800 times a second.


Here is the Vamo firing at 3v. 3 squares up from center is 6v and center line is 0v. Notice that is 50% on and 50% off.
View attachment 178263
Here is a firing at 4.5v Notice the time up is about 75% now.
View attachment 178264
Here is the Vamo at 6. It hardly has any down time at all.
View attachment 178265
Now the ProV at 3v.
View attachment 178266
and at 6v.
View attachment 178267
 
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alvinado

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....................................................
Only 5 pics per post. Here is a close up of the ProV pulse.
View attachment 178271

I get some buddies from the forum asking me why the sometimes vamo taste burnt on a good atty and sometimes it doesn't. Now here's the reason. If you fire the vamo at 4.5 volts, it fires at 6 volts 75% of the time and 0 volts for 25% the time, for 37 times a second to recreate 4.5 volts. If your wick is not wet enough, it will definitely burn your wick as the on and off cycle is not fast enough. This will work if the vamo is firing at say, 500 times per second as the on/off time is fast enough.

In short, provari is just better as when you fire at 4.5V, it is 4.5 volts, straight line. Negligible modulation as it fires at 800hz. OF course mech mods is even better as it is a DC(infinite cycles per second), but you will have to deal with voltage drop and battery power curve. So my recommendations for mechs mods are when you want to vape at sub 1.2 ohms.

So for you when you make your decisions, remember that you used to spend $300 a month if you are a 1p.a.d smoker. Provari can last you a lifetime with it build quality.

Maybe I am being to hard on a mod that cost $50 bucks, but a poor design is a poor design.
 
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alvinado

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null-5.jpg


Yes and I am a fanboy, so? :)
 
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stealthsg

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May 11, 2013
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TAK BOLEH!!
Awesome article there bro! Very new to vaping but acquired 3 units of Provari Mini just to ensure I have a backup in case one breaks down but also because I was in the US ;) Wonderful product that never fails to perform!

Here is a reason for the newbies why the Provari is better, yes I am a Provari fanboy but I have my reasons. I am a fan of Mech mods and the only vv/vw mod I keep is the Provari. Here's the reason why. And for guys who think that you need the VW functions, you don't!

Voltage and Power are correlated and controlled by resistance and current. Even if you keep the wattage at let say, 8 watts, and contrary to popular belief, you will not get the same vape for different attys as the variables are different.. read the article below by gdeal!
 

kimochi-ii

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I doubt you have to convince many people the provari is a better product overall. What you have to convince people of is that $ for $ its a better product. Cost is a huge deal for many people and I didn't see any mention of that.

I would pay much more for quality :) but of course, spend within your means :)
 

alvinado

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Dec 28, 2010
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I doubt you have to convince many people the provari is a better product overall. What you have to convince people of is that $ for $ its a better product. Cost is a huge deal for many people and I didn't see any mention of that.

$ for $ it is a better product. because it is a tried and tested product, I have a provari last me from 2010 til now and will be still working if i did not accidentally short it by putting a magnet to a battery ( stupid me). Lucky I have 2 spare, one still brand new! lol

In SG a pack of big M cost $12 bucks, it will cost you $400 (opps it is $4000, poor maths) bucks a year to smoke, so in comparison to analogs in SG, it is a good deal actually, just that you have to come out with the money off hand. For the Vamo, I have looked at the construction in the tube and trust me that parts will fall off if you accidentally drop it a few times, it is bound to happen.
 
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knight_

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Mar 13, 2013
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$ for $ it is a better product. because it is a tried and tested product, I have a provari last me from 2010 til now and will be still working if i did not accidentally short it by putting a magnet to a battery ( stupid me). Lucky I have 2 spare, one still brand new! lol

In SG a pack of big M cost $12 bucks, it will cost you $400 bucks a year to smoke, so in comparison to analogs in SG, it is a good deal actually, just that you have to come out with the money off hand. For the Vamo, I have looked at the construction in the tube and trust me that part will fall off if you accidentally drop it a few times, it is bound to happen.

400 a year??? typo ah bro? more like 4000 right ??? lol
 
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