Quality ohm reader?
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The best meter I have had to date is the one built into my m80 pro plus. I have gone through a bunch of the meters and it seems like no matter where you buy it, they all come from China or the pieces do. Now there's nothing wrong with it being Chinese, as long as it is built right, some are some aren't. If you are at the $50 range, I'd suggest looking for a low watt vw device that will read 0.00. If it reads 0.0 then it won't work as it will round up (a .35 build will show up as .4) and you won't know your build.
You're just not going to get any better than something like a USA Ohmmeter or a similar device. It's a purpose build meter that has only one function making it very cost effective.
If you were to look for a DMM to do the job, there just isn't one that comes remotely close in accuracy, and the first ones that do get close start at several hundred dollars. The absolute cheapest you could do it with DMMs would be maybe a couple hundred dollars. Though that would include building custom leads, using the pair to do 4 wire testing. Basically using the meters where they are accurate i.e. voltage and current, then doing the math to calculate resistance, which is what a purpose built 4 wire tester does.
If you were to look for a DMM to do the job, there just isn't one that comes remotely close in accuracy, and the first ones that do get close start at several hundred dollars. The absolute cheapest you could do it with DMMs would be maybe a couple hundred dollars. Though that would include building custom leads, using the pair to do 4 wire testing. Basically using the meters where they are accurate i.e. voltage and current, then doing the math to calculate resistance, which is what a purpose built 4 wire tester does.
Well said. One of the reasons deep subohm can be dangerous is a tiny difference in resistance-- far too small to be reliably measured by anything affordable-- can make a huge difference. I blogged in another thread to a guy who was having a difference between .15 and .18 between his meter and his mod, you just can't get there without dropping half a Grover, minimum. Good 4-point Kelvin meters are high dollar, plus more to have them certifiably calibrated. But, it was pointed out to me, that tiny little .03 ohm difference means 4 amps on the battery.
I've never used this or known anyone that has but I was thinking about getting one
Coil Master 521 Tab $39.99
Coil Master 521 Tab $39.99
I'm very happy with my USA Ohmmeter as well. Would recommend it. When I first got one, I built a number of coils that I "set up" on Steam Engine, built as close to spec as possible (ID, leg length, etc), and it was off (every time) by their stated margin of error (.018Ω). But it was always + .018, so I knew how to make sense of that reliably. I sent that one to a friend, overseas, and had to buy another. The second one seems to be dead-nuts on . . . every time. I still build setups (coil configurations) that I "sketch up" in Steam Engine, based on what I want from a particular build; and the USA Ohmmeter is right there, reading the same numbers that the math says it should be.
I have a similar tool by a different company. Frankly I don't like it much. Doesn't mean you won't, though. Some folks swear by them. I did find it handy to have the different sized mandrels and a handle in ine box, though, I just never used the spinner cap. Nowadays I use a coil tool that's a simple bar of stainless about 3 inches long. It's step-turned from 3.5 down to 1.5 mm. And the handle end is hex-- turned from a hex bar-- so it doesn't roll when you set it down.
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