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smok 220 watt g priv 1 edition 22g dual parralell 6 wrap 4.5 mm Id ohms out to .14 on the g priv with vtc5a
Personally I wouldn't go over 125, but I err on the side of caution. Technically, you could do about 137, but you'd be riding the line and taxing the heck out of them. I am of course calculating using the lowest voltage you would want to run your batteries at as a precaution because as the voltage of your batteries drop the amperage that gets pulled from them goes up. You'll definitely go through some batteries like that.
While I personally like a lot of Smok mods, I'm a low wattage vaper so I'm never pushing them to their limits.
I don't usually recommend Smok mods to be pushed overly hard.
We have a saying in the Army, "Never forget your equipment was made by the lowest bidder. Safety, safety, safety."
While I personally like a lot of Smok mods, I'm a low wattage vaper so I'm never pushing them to their limits.
I don't usually recommend Smok mods to be pushed overly hard.
We have a saying in the Army, "Never forget your equipment was made by the lowest bidder. Safety, safety, safety."
I wouldn't go over 120-130 with any rda but since it's a regulated/protected mod it will shut off if you even come close to overheating anything.
I've tried my smok alien on the max wattage on 220 with a melo 300 tank using vtc5's, after a couple hits it shut down.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn XT1635-02 met Tapatalk
I've tried my smok alien on the max wattage on 220 with a melo 300 tank using vtc5's, after a couple hits it shut down.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn XT1635-02 met Tapatalk
Divide wattage by 3. Then divide the quotient by the number of batteries in use. Divide that quotient by 0.90.
The last number is the Amps required from each battery.
If your batteries can't deliver, a regulated mod in good working order will not fire.
The last number is the Amps required from each battery.
If your batteries can't deliver, a regulated mod in good working order will not fire.
No, because in series the Amp limit is spread among all batteries on the circuit.
I use 3 in the first operation because the math is easier.
Here's the most accurate method.
Calculating battery current draw for a regulated mod | E-Cigarette Forum
That statement would imply that a device could draw 50 amps from 2 VTC5a's........
Amps are "shared" in a parallel setup (and the voltages are averaged.) In series, they each "feel" the full amp load (and the voltages are summed.)
In a regulated device, this doesn't make a whole heckuva lot of difference. You either get the same voltage and more amps, or you get more voltage at the same amps, but a given voltage draws the same current from each cell, regardless. (Example [edit: had series/parallel mixed up in the example] - 80w at 4v, parallel: 80w / 4v = 20A, split between to batteries, = 10A each cell /vs/ 80w at 4v, series: 80w / 8v = 10A, "felt" in full by each each cell. In both cases, the amp drain is 10 amps per cell.)
In a mech mod, however, it makes all the difference, since wattage (and therefore amp drain) is determined solely by coil resistance and battery voltage, and not regulated by a computer chip.
You do have some safety margins with a regulated mod. With that said, depending on how much mass is in your build, to heat up, well there are times a battery is going to have to work harder.
Your regulated board is going to do what it can to "draw" from your batteries as much as it can. The problem is if you are vaping RIGHT AT the margin of safety of your batteries, you are going to be ploughing through them at a higher rate. IF you need that much wattage (and I am not certain you do) I'd suggest a 3 battery mod, and/or a 27-- series dual mod. Do not then be fooled into thinking "I can go higher now" because the whole idea is to NOT stress your batteries, your mod (and a smok mod would be the LAST regulated mod on earth I would choose to "push" my batteries at) and etc.
You don't need to turn everything up to 11.
In case you don't know much about battery safety generally, some light reading.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blogs/mooch.256958/
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blog-entry/baditudes-blogs.7609/
Best of luck,
Anna
Your regulated board is going to do what it can to "draw" from your batteries as much as it can. The problem is if you are vaping RIGHT AT the margin of safety of your batteries, you are going to be ploughing through them at a higher rate. IF you need that much wattage (and I am not certain you do) I'd suggest a 3 battery mod, and/or a 27-- series dual mod. Do not then be fooled into thinking "I can go higher now" because the whole idea is to NOT stress your batteries, your mod (and a smok mod would be the LAST regulated mod on earth I would choose to "push" my batteries at) and etc.
You don't need to turn everything up to 11.
In case you don't know much about battery safety generally, some light reading.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blogs/mooch.256958/
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blog-entry/baditudes-blogs.7609/
Best of luck,
Anna
Not the answer I was hoping for but yea safety is essential rn I'm pushing vtc5a at 180 watts.....5 volts and 38 amps gonna have to go on imr batteries and order some hb6 ...which batteries do you guys recommend for high wattage vaping
Here's a list compiled by the preeminent battery scholar of the vaping community, pick the battery that has the right discharge rating for you and if you need a tie breaker figure out if you want more headroom, more capacity, more affordable, etc. Mooch's Recommended Batteries | E-Cigarette Forum
Why? VTC5A = 25 amp CDR = 75 watts per battery. Series/parallel doesn't make much difference in a regulated setup. With 2x VTC5A, you can go up to 150W.
That may be okay on a full charge (180W / 8V = 22.5A) but as you get near cutoff voltage (roughly 3v per battery) you're drawing closer to 180/6 = 30A from your cells. The VTC5A has a discharge rating of only 25A.
That would be the one, going by @Mooch's recommendations. 30A discharge rating should let you use 180W all the way to dead. Of course, that won't be very long, with only 1500mAh per cell (1500mAh * 3.7v = 5550mWh or 5.55 watt-hours, per cell. 11.1 watt-hours total, at 180 watts, gives about .0616 hours, or 3.7 minutes of actual vape time), but it is what it is. You get high-drain, or high-capacity, but not both.
Because if he had no idea what he was using I'd have passed on answering.
I calculated at the cells discharging down to about 3 volts with use, and allowed for the fact that the mod would draw more amperage to counter the loss in voltage. Therefore I cautiously said 137 because that would keep him below the CDR all the way to 3 volts. (which I wouldn't recommend)
I prefer to trust being cautious rather than the protection circuit in a mass produced mod.
Did my rambling make sense?
I mean, if you happen to know the cutoff voltage and efficiency rating of your particular device (are they published? Very few are) then by all means go ahead and use that. Otherwise, 3.0v is a pretty standard rule-of-thumb for "voltage under load at cutoff," which is the value that's important for determining safety in a regulated device.
I hear that all the time. "What if the circuitry fails?" Lemme tell you what, if the circuitry fails in such a way that it doesn't just shut down, and doesn't short the batteries instantaneously, but instead somehow manages to keep working just well enough to deliver raw battery power to the atomizer, then you're now basically using an unprotected mech mod, and it won't matter one lick what the watts setting was before it stopped working right. Your amp draw is now determined by the atomizer resistance, and the chance of over-current discharge will be greater at full charge than at a lower one.
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