Questions on batteries and power

[WolfeReign]

First i am not sure if this is in the right part of the site, second i am asking this as i am trying to get a hang on everything and understand things that i just noticed......

The batteries: 1100mAh pass through (ego clone 3.7V), 650mAh ego's (3.2V)
The Carts: 510 (think it is a volt?ohm unkown), ego vision stardust(ohm unknown), V510 Vision Clearomize (2.8-3.0ohm), Smoktech Mega Dual Coil Cartomizer (3.0ohmz)

Now i make no secret i am no good in electronics, yet i hold a amateur radio license (go figure), and i do not understand this all.

First i know that 100mAh = 1 hour battery life, and the higher the volts the hotter a cartomizer will burn, but i thought that lower volts was a good thing in some cases?

How is it that the V510, and 510 (volt?) cart seem to have a burnt taste when i used the 650 batt's, yet when i put them on the pass through as soon as i get that taste they are fine? Is there a need to match the ohm's to the battery too, and this why the mega dual coil can run (all be it at lower capacity) on the 650's?

Has anyone heard of this for the Smoking NV's (808's, similar to the fuma for y'all in the USA)...i emailed the supplier as i was curious what they spec's where on their batteries (i use two of their batteries and ONLY the batteries) and this is the reply i got back......(keep in mind i asked on mah and mm too) The Smoke NV White & Black Batteries are a 4.2 volt. As for the Thread, it is a proprietary thread we use for our device. It is a poly lithium ion Battery.

 

[ambition]

First I think you need to understand voltage, resistance, current and power. They're all interrelated.

I have no idea why your carts run better on the higher voltage device. You don't really have to match resistance too much, just don't use super low resistance on very high voltages.

As for the other stuff, think of it like a water tank.

The water tank is your battery.
You have a pipe on the bottom with a tap on it.

Voltage, measured in volts(V) is like the diameter of the pipe.

Current, measured in Amperes(A) is the flow rate of the water.

Resistance, measured in ohms (Greek omega symbol) is like the tap. Close it a little to increase resistance and open it up more to decreas resistance.

All these things interrelate to determine how much power you'll get. Power is measured in watts (W) and can be imagined as the amount an old school water wheel will turn if the water from your pipe is used to turn it.

Increasing the current or voltage, or decreasing the resistance will make that wheel turn faster as the little buckets fill faster.
Decreasing the voltage or current, or increasing the resistance will slow the wheel down and create less power.

mAh relates to the size of the battery. Not physical size, but it's capacity in a sense.

If your water pump in your tank could completely empty a 1000 litre tank in exactly 1 hour, it would be called a 1000 L/hour pump.

A 650 mAh battery will be drained fully if it had to produce 650mA (mA is 1/1000 of an ampere) of current for exactly one hour. If it had to produce 1300mA, it would be drained in 30 mins in theory.

Here's the way it's all worked out.

Current = volts / resistance

Power = current x volts

Lower resistance atomizer coils increase the current draw from the battery. Eg. 5 volts on 2 ohms is 2.5 amps. 5 volts on 1.7 ohms is 2.94 amps.
The power in the first example is 12.5watts. The second example is 14.7watts. A 17.6% increase in power from a tiny change.

Power is what you are really vaping. Not voltage, not resistance. Of you can work out the wattage you like vaping at, you'll be able to match attys and cartos to certain batteries according to your tastes.

Oh and those batteries, like all others of their type are not 4.2 volts. They're 3.7 just like your ego clone. They all start out at 4.2, but rapidly drop to 3.7 and stay there until they're nearly drained.

Hope this helps.

 

[WolfeReign]

so in jumping from the pass through to the 605's with the stardust, and actually paying attention to the vape and draw, i am not in error feeling that after testing all night, the star dust (which no idea on it's details) works better on the lower batteries...

 

[ambition]

Dunno mate. What you feel is what you feel. Now we just have to work out why.

I believe the stardust is a 2.8 ohm. But I could be wrong. Haven't tested one yet.

I can help you with the physics, but not with the specifics. Anyone else??

 

[WolfeReign]

actually i have got the answer, and it is silly really. Turns out the 650's are genuine ego's...so that means 3.5V, the pass through is a clone, and without a volt meter and by sheer taste i am guessing the volts are lower then claimed....So for now that would be the why. I will post in here Monday (or vape gods let it be) tomorrow when the 900mAh genuine branded ego comes to me....
in the mean time thank you so very much for the help, and i am still going over the mathematics and analogy you gave, trying to get it right in my head....the equations are most excellent and it seems to be a vaper this is a need to know stuff

 

[Slim Batz]

If you really want to see whats going on you should invest in a multimeter ... shouldn't set you back more than $20 for a basic one. Then you can accurately measure voltage of your batts and the resistance of your attachments. The power (watts) output of each setup is of primary interest ... which can be calculated with the Voltage (V) and the Resistance (R) ... the current (I) is a dependent variable. So, if as stated above P=VI and I=V/R then with a little substitution we get ...
P=V²/R

 

[ambition]

Don't thank me, thank James Watt. Lol

Yeah, once you get your head around how these things actually work (funny how they're just a battery with wire) it becomes easier to make decisions based on what you want.

Just like when you want your room a bit brighter so you put in a higher wattage light bulb and it required no thought. It's no different with ecigs, except it's impractical for vendors to speak in terms of watts because they don't know the users voltage in advance.

Would love to know how you get on with the new device that's coming. Then you can tell us what's what with the watts. And the stardust of course.

 

[WolfeReign]

you just seriously lost me in the equation....i used to have a volt meter.....it was a present, but i got rid of it, as i did not know how to use it. Though i have seen one in a you tube video that seemed to be only for the ego's and other batteries, and it was just a simple screwing it on the battery, then turning on the battery and it did the work, displaying the numbers.....

 

[WolfeReign]

Don't thank me, thank James Watt. Lol Would love to know how you get on with the new device that's coming. Then you can tell us what's what with the watts. And the stardust of course.

As i uncross my eyes on that my only response that i want to put is a heart felt raspberry, but instead i extract my revenge with a extremely bad joke:

Do you know where Mr. And Mrs. Watt live? at ohm

Now i run for dear life BOL

 

[ambition]

Lol!!!!!!!!!

 

[Huuwap]

Let me preface that I didn't know jack about any of this until about 3 weeks ago.

http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp

Wattage is figured by multiplying your voltage by itself (voltage squared), divided by the ohm rating.

Now, with the site above you can figure those numbers out without the equation...just plug in the numbers you know to get the number you don't know.

Lower resistance is exactly what it sounds like...more current per voltage makes the circuit, resulting in more power than a higher resistance atty would receive at the same voltage.

For example, a 2ohm (resistance) atty on a 3.7v (voltage) mod gives you 6.845W (power) and 1.85A (current). Drop down to 1.7ohm on the same device, and you'll get 8.05W and 2.176A, resulting in warmer vapor and more juice vaporized. Alternatively, slap on a 3ohm atty and you're getting 4.56W and 1.23A.

I'd say the most important thing is to understand the battery you're using and know what it's max amp rating is and stay below it. That aside, as long as you're below your max amps, vape at whatever wattage gives you the best experience. The higher the current, the faster your battery will drain...it's definitely not 1 hour to 100mAh, but will vary depending on the current draw.

 

[WolfeReign]

I think i narrowed down the issue shall we call it? the 650mAh ego runs at 3.2V which is what the star dust loves to run at, going to 3.7V is alright as well...but anything over that, and you will get a slight burnt taste such as what i was getting on the pass through, it will be interesting to see if the pass through is unregulated....might be a good thing ....i will see if i am on the right track when i get the 900mAh in tommorrow (i hope)

 

[WolfeReign]

Let me preface that I didn't know jack about any of this until about 3 weeks ago.

http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp

Wattage is figured by multiplying your voltage by itself (voltage squared), divided by the ohm rating.

Now, with the site above you can figure those numbers out without the equation...just plug in the numbers you know to get the number you don't know.

Lower resistance is exactly what it sounds like...more current per voltage makes the circuit, resulting in more power than a higher resistance atty would receive at the same voltage.

For example, a 2ohm (resistance) atty on a 3.7v (voltage) mod gives you 6.845W (power) and 1.85A (current). Drop down to 1.7ohm on the same device, and you'll get 8.05W and 2.176A, resulting in warmer vapor and more juice vaporized. Alternatively, slap on a 3ohm atty and you're getting 4.56W and 1.23A.

I'd say the most important thing is to understand the battery you're using and know what it's max amp rating is and stay below it. That aside, as long as you're below your max amps, vape at whatever wattage gives you the best experience. The higher the current, the faster your battery will drain...it's definitely not 1 hour to 100mAh, but will vary depending on the current draw.

umm only one problem i never got to understanding anything mathmatical beyond grade 2.......i always thought "wth is math good for? where and when i am ever going to use the thing?" umm i was wrong...WAY wrong

 

[Huuwap]

That's why I linked up the calculators. As long as you know what numbers are acceptable and you can plug in the numbers you know to figure them all out you're set.

 

[WolfeReign]

that's just it, i don't know the specific's of the pass through, and i am a little iffy on the joye ego's....with no meter (or know how to use it) i am running on pure speculation sadly...

 

[Jaguar G]

Hello Constantine,

I started a thread, "The "E" in e-cigarette explained" that you may find helpful.

As for using a meter, to measure a battery, you set the meter to VDC (volts - direct current) or it may say VOLTS DC or a symbol. Then all you have to do is touch the leads to the battery, red to positive and black to negative (but if you reverse the leads it will only give you the voltage with a minus sign in front.) Some meters have ranges so be sure to select the 0-20V range, all e-cig batteries are around 3-4 volts.

To use the meter to check the resistance of a carto or atty, you select the OHMS or Ω setting. Then you touch one lead to each side of the atty, the center and the side, and it gives you the ohm reading. Again, if the meter has different scales the lowest should work fine. Also, the polarity (red/black leads) doesn't matter when measuring ohms.

That's it, easy peasy. Once you have the volts and ohms, the rest is just a calculation away. Granted, the battery generally drops voltage under load so a 4.2 reading does not mean that will be the actual voltage when powering a carto or atty, but as a general guideline for finding what power you (or your juice) prefers, it works.

Jag

 

[WolfeReign]

still working through the math on both the calculator and article links here but before i do anything i need to see if there is a way to check just the battery with a regular volt meter......then i can tackle the math of it

 

[Huuwap]

Red prong to the center post, black prong to the threads and push the button. Make sure your multimeter is set to Voltage DC/VDC. Note that you'll get a higher number than what it actually is with a load on it...and there's no way to know what the drop is loaded unless you get something to measure it.

 

[WolfeReign]

thanks....it may be around the 11th of April when i can get back with what i find, i will let you know

 

[WolfeReign]

In the meantime i got the 900mah battery in.....good thing i checked to see if it had a charge (no matter how little) before i did the first initial charging....hooked the star dust to it....way nicer on the joye ego then the clone pass through where i got the joye ego battery In a correspondence with the company this is what they told me somewhere in the 3.4V range, 3.3 under load. easier draw on the Star dust that is for sure.....already planning to get one of their pass through (officially branded) just a matter what to do with the other 3 batteries then =))