I gave upon claims when they said "whiter than white and brighter than bright", LOL. I ordered an ipv so I stand a chance of making 35 watts.
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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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A new vape shop opened yesterday right around the corner. So I had to check em out. After a few minutes conversation I got around to asking if he's ever heard of rayon wicks? No he hasn't, so I let him try my R91 he took one hit and said OMG I gotta write this down he was freaking out let another guy try it and he was wow we need some of that.
Since he gave me a free bottle of juice to review I thought it only sporting that I give a little back so I went home and got about 20 feet for him to try out and let him know about Sally's I think this may be the start of a Rayon Revolution lol.
Since he gave me a free bottle of juice to review I thought it only sporting that I give a little back so I went home and got about 20 feet for him to try out and let him know about Sally's I think this may be the start of a Rayon Revolution lol.
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Your gonna be their hero! 
Free juice any time you walk in, VIP treatment... Lol
Free juice any time you walk in, VIP treatment... Lol
@Jeremy and @Tbev you are unfortunately wrong. Ohms has nothing to do in how much is applied to the battery in VV and VW devices. VV and VW both work based on the watts required. Provari has a limit of 14.5 watts and vamo has a limit of 13 something watts with one battery. A vamo with one battery can never give you 14 or 15 watts whatever the resistance is between 1.2 ohms and max ohms. I can prepare a better answer you just have to wait when I'm on my pc .
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The real output doesn't match what's displayed when pushing the maximum settings (with a single battery). Towards the end of his review, pbusardo shows the results of his measurements https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLO3PTUek2o
It does display 15 watts. If you have a scope you would know it cannot output more than 13 something watts. The ohms of your atomizer do not matter. if you set it at 15 watts it calculates the amp from the battery. If battery is fully charged it is 4 volts so it needs 3.75 amps which it cannot give. it gives the max amps which is like 3.1 amps I think that's why 15 watts is not reachable.
As you saw from my calculations above ohms have nothing to do with it.
I only mentioned Ohms as your referenced Ohms in your 'can never' statement.
Where does the ~3.1 Amp limit come into play?
The chip has this limit. It cannot withdraw more than 3 amps from a 3.7v battery as scoped by many people and as proven in Pbusardo's video. I mentioned the ohms in a previous post just to show it cannot do it across its full range of ohms so that people don't think it is possible if they play with the resistance. On the other hand more advanced chips like the dna can withdraw 8 amps or 10 amps which allows it to reach 20 and 30 watts.
And by the way the vamo can give you 30 watts if you build your coil at 1.2 and feed it 6 volts with 2 batteries. It can do this because 2 batteries need only on average around 4 amps withdrawn from them to give you 30 watts.
If I take the 6 Volts as shown in the video, square it and divide by 2.5 Ohms, I come up with 14.4 Watts...
Do you have a link where this is proven, I know it puts out substantially more than 15 watts but I would love to see the numbers.
I know it should be 30 watts..1.2 ohms @ 6 volts = 30 watts drawing the full 5 amps (2.5 amp per battery), which is the chipset limit.
If you are using 2 batteries yes this is your wattage. If you are using one battery same limits you will not be able to achieve more than 13 something watts therefore you will not achieve the 6 volts that is displayed for a 2.5 ohm load. It will be more like 5.4 volts. But really neither volts or ohms matter for how much amps it needs from battery. In this case (VV mode) it just uses them to calculate the wattage you are requesting which is 14.4 but it tries to give it to you and it fails giving you only 13 something watts. Sad but true.
The experiments are in Pbusardo video look for his vamo v5 video. Here you can infer the 3 amps limit for the 1 battery and the 30 watts for 2 batteries.
The theory is in this post. Credit goes to Mundy. I was lost before like the guys here before he explained to me. It is TL; DR but you asked for it
What it means is that the amount of energy being drawn from the battery is the same as what you are putting into the coil plus 2% to 15% or so depending on the converter and where it is in its efficiency range. Though not technically equivalent (for those that nitpick) wattage is the same as energy for our purposes. So if you are powering a .1 ohm coil at 20 watts it draws the same amperage from the battery as a 10 ohm coil at 20 watts. (Once again neglecting small variances in efficiency although they could be identical or not) The practical advantage possible would be with a down converter using 2 or more batteries. In that case less amperage (appoximatly 1/2 for 2 batteries and 1/3 for 3 batteries etc) allows for using batteries of higher mah rating since the amperage needed is less and typically the higher mah batteries have a lower maximum amperage rating. I have to get back to work now, however here is something I wrote one time regarding amperage and converters:
I will not go into the internal circuit design itself here as it requires advanced knowledge of power electronics and a little black magic as many have found out during implementaion of a design in the real world. I will however attempt to explain the basics necessary to understand the relationships between input voltage and amperage and output voltage and amperage which is hidden behind a lot of equations that look like alien writings. Bear in mind this is simplified and there are many things I am leaving out about the actual internal workings. Also I will assume the external circuit is properly designed for the application.
To understand these relationships we need to breifly look at how the converters work.
A DC-DC buck converter, also called a down converter, will always have the output voltage lower than the input voltage.
(A linear regulator is a form of down converter but is less efficient as it has to waste all the power in conversion since it does not store energy)
A DC-DC boost conveter, also called an up converter, is very similar to a buck except the output voltage will always be higher than the input.
There are various other converters (buck-boost, flyback, SEPIC, Cuk, and variations) that will provide both lower and higher output voltages than the input voltage but are normally found in complete end user devices.
The following will apply to all modern DC-DC converters.
A DC-DC convrter breifly stores energy from the input in either a magnetic field or a capacitor. In most all converters it is in a magnetic field so we will look at them. A magnetic field is built up in what is called an inductor that is a coil or that block looking thing with a coil inside it that is normally the largest component in a converter. Once that energy is stored in the magnetic field there is no longer voltage or current, just the magnetic field strength. It then releases that energy to the output. During this release the design of the converter and possibly external components determines what average voltage is present at the output.
What about current? Since voltage and current "dissapear" inside the inductor when they create the magnetic field, input current has no direct bearing on output current.
To determine the output current is simple. Divide the output voltage by the load resistance. I.E. if the output voltage is 4 volts and the output resistance is 2 ohms then the output current is 2 amps. (4V/2O=2A)
To determine the input current however you must know the input or output wattage, converter efficiency at the working parameters, and the input voltage. Since we will normally know the output wattage we take output voltage times output current. Using the above example 4V X 2A = 8W of output wattage. Converters do not have the same efficiency throught their range so normally you will have to look at charts provided by the manufacturer in the data sheet to determine the efficiency at the input and output we want to figure it for. For simplicity we will say that in this case the converter is working at 90% efficiency. So if we are getting 8W out of it there must be 8.9W going into it. 8W / 90% = 8.9W (rounded up to the 1/10th watt). To figure the current input we take the input wattage divided by the input voltage. Lets say we have 8.2V input (2 cells at 4.1V each). 8.9W / 8.2V = 1.1A (again rounded up)
So you can see that while we are getting 2A out of the converter we are only drawing 1.1A from the batteries. However the input current will rise as the batteries discharge. Lets say our batteries have fallen from 8.2V total to 6.4V total. Thanks to the converter we still have 8 watts of output which means we still have 8.9 watts of input (assuming efficiency has not changed). But for the converter to get that 8.9 watts from the batteries it has to draw more current since we are giving it a lower voltage. 8.9W / 6.4V =1.4A. In both cases our batteries are seeing a lower amperage than the output is providing.
Now lets look at a boost converter. The math is the same. Lets say we still have 8W output at 4V and our input voltage is now 3.2V (1 cell) and our efficiency is the same at 90%. So the input wattage will still be 8.9W but the input current will not be the same. 8.9W / 3.2V = 2.8A. Now our battery is seeing more amperage than the output is providing.
As a general rule of thumb a buck converter will always draw less amperage from the batteries than the output is providing and a boost converter will always draw more amperage than the output is providing. A converter that will do both more and less voltage out than in will as a rule of thumb do the same as a buck if it is giving less voltage out than in and the same as a boost if it is giving more voltage out than in.
You should always look at the lowest battery voltage the converter will see when determining what the maximum amperage the draw will be on the batteries.
Most all modern DC-DC converters will have a thermal shut down mode. Internal components will determine if the converter is getting too hot and will shut the converter down. Converters need to shed heat. This heat build up is determined by load, duty cycle (how long they are on compared to off), and how much they can shed this heat. If driven hard and a long it is important to not keep air from being able to convey this heat away or thermal shut down may occur.
Most all modern DC-DC converters also incorporate what is normally called the "hiccup" mode. This is incorporated into most all modern DC-DC converters. When a setpoint is reached (determined by the manufacturer) where the electronics inside the converter are not able to provide the current out that you are trying to draw from it, the converter will go into hiccup mode. The converter will output the most it can for a very breif time then output nothing for a longer period of time (a short duty cycle) then start over again. You can see where the name hiccup came from. This is to prevent damage to the internal components. The point this happens is normally refered to as the "inception point". The inception point will always be higher than manufacturers rated amperage for the converter. If not the converter could never reach the rated amperage without cycling into and out of hiccup mode. Normally a manufacturer will set that point at 110% to 140% of rated amperage. This is determined by the manufacurer and will be below what destructive testing has shown will damage the internal components. The inception point will normally be included in the manufactures data sheet.
Most manufacturers will also include a warning that a fuse should be used to protect the converter and power supply. This is because hiccup mode will only protect the conveter for a short period of time against a dead short. In some cases 1 second or less. If the converter fails in a short mode instead of open mode the batteries will be directly connected to the load since the majority of converters are "non isolated" and the ground for the input is also the ground for the output.
Where does this ~3.1 Amp limit for a single battery come from?
Does that somehow figure into the 6 Volts actually being only something like 5.4 Volts?
Does that somehow figure into the 6 Volts actually being only something like 5.4 Volts?
It is from the 13 something watts that is the limit with 1 battery with a fully charged battery at 4 volts.
If a fully charged battery (between 4 and 4.2 because of circuit drop) cannot give me more than 13 watts then the output current cannot be more than 13/4= 3.25 amps independent of ohms.
Where are you getting the '13 something' Watt limit? Is that based on the lowest battery voltage (3.2V as Mundy mentions) that the unit will see?
Well.....any who.....my Kayfuns are still going strong on Rayon.....drippers are still amazing...I am sold.....which is a good thing since I have 499 feet of it! I am going to play with resistance below. 5 ohms when a couple of new drippers arrive in a few days. I'll report back....
No this is from Pbusardo and any user with a vamo and a scope will calculate at 15 watts.
Excuse me friend, it's not very often that I'm wrong, even less @JeremyR so it's only logical that both of us being wrong together is completely impossible.@Jeremy and @Tbev you are unfortunately wrong. Ohms has nothing to do in how much is applied to the battery in VV and VW devices. VV and VW both work based on the watts required. Provari has a limit of 14.5 watts and vamo has a limit of 13 something watts with one battery. A vamo with one battery can never give you 14 or 15 watts whatever the resistance is between 1.2 ohms and max ohms. I can prepare a better answer you just have to wait when I'm on my pc
The fact of the matter is that the devices are limited by amp draw. V/W don't really matter, the limiting factor is the boards tolerance for amperage.
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