An older pic, but here is the axe with a Semovar and KFL in stubby mode. Short Mtank and 18350.
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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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An older pic, but here is the axe with a Semovar and KFL in stubby mode. Short Mtank and 18350.
Pretty, what are the back sides and top made of?
While I understand.. I wouldn't be surprised if I had my rayon longer than you..I've given it several chances. I even have builds with one cotton, one rayon coil, etc... I also don't notice a difference between KGD and a nice and consistent piece of rolled cotton, and most rolls are all over the place with consistency.
Again...not burning... just annoying. I'm really taking offense to your post, bp..
My end reply is just going to be this:
.....
And this:
And no.. it doesn't take long to heat up.. 1ohm-26awg@50watts
Yeah, possible.. it sucks. Cuz outside of that, it's wonderful.
There's an argument this reminds me of...the whole "clean" 3- letter acronym that starts with a 'L', placebo or real?
I guess I'll look into it... but I already have a ton on my plate, two family businesses- both in tech fields(ton of reading and studying)+10month old daughter.
Just an observation.
I experienced gunking on a few occasions and it was due to the fact I had inadvertently moved the air holes away from the coils. If you are using a dripper check and make sure your air holes are lined up with the coils. Simple, I know. But while transporting your stuff, things get moved around.
My 2 KFs of course are fixed air holes, but my Origin and Kraken I keep checking.
Been using CCr in all my devices and it's great.
I experienced gunking on a few occasions and it was due to the fact I had inadvertently moved the air holes away from the coils. If you are using a dripper check and make sure your air holes are lined up with the coils. Simple, I know. But while transporting your stuff, things get moved around.
My 2 KFs of course are fixed air holes, but my Origin and Kraken I keep checking.
Been using CCr in all my devices and it's great.
Hmmm.... I'll have to keep an eye on this. On my drippers where I can move the air holes off the the coil I have. Some up to 90 degrees. Its resulted in more manageable heat in lower ohm builds. Especially when the chambers in the rda's are tight and keep in heat anyway. It's giving great flavor with better vapor. I suppose because I can take longer draws.
I'll keep an eye on it and report any premature gunking.
Did you experience this with all or just some juices?
I only have 3 juices. One is coffee and a notorious gunker. And I only run it in the Origin. It's usually good for 4-5 days, then it needs a rewick and dry burn. Also back off on the fire button 1 second before ending a "puff" helps a lot.
@DrBytey,
@Looney Bin,
It sound like you don't know that the air hole must always be pointing at the coil. The further away from the coil the harsher the vape... and I mean harsh!!!
If I read your post wrong and/or misunderstood what you where saying and you already knew about the air hole orientation please excuse me butting in.
@Looney Bin,
It sound like you don't know that the air hole must always be pointing at the coil. The further away from the coil the harsher the vape... and I mean harsh!!!
If I read your post wrong and/or misunderstood what you where saying and you already knew about the air hole orientation please excuse me butting in.
No harm or bad intent taken. It happened to me inadvertently. Just pointing it out.
It's cool.
I have found varying results with air hole placement depending the rda. Im specifically talking about single coils with dual air holes . Im offsetting them a bit fromthe coil. Sometimes it produced some off the harshest vape ever on others it actually toned the heat down and increased the flavor. It does truely have a lot to dowith the way I have certain builds wicked. Sometimes air holes directly on the coils produced more heat than I like and I simply off set them and go better results.
Some didn't change much no matter where I had the air holes. Right now my Origen and Tobh both have the air holes slightly offset. Not to far away from the coils but not directly inline with them. With the builds in them they hit a tiny bit cooler with the slightly offset holes.
I aways start with the coils right behind the air holes and play around with it until I like it.
It has really depended on the build.
I am getting very interested in trying out this cellucotton stuff that so many have talked about and was wondering (since I live in the middle of no where in western Canada) if those rayon cotton balls are the same thing since that is the only rayon I can find in the small town(s) near where I live.
Those would work. Just make sure they're 100% rayon and don't have any additives in them (like aloe). Should say so somewhere on the packaging.
You're welcome to take offense at my post, however it wasn't directed at you. Which you seem to have noticed when you pointed out I was saying burning and you said annoying.
On topic portion... Rewicked the Fogger V4, time to restart the days in and ml through it counter to see if I can beat my last build and make it a full month, 4.5 weeks, instead of just 3.5.
The chamber size is about the same as the Kayfun chamber and I'm running it hotter, 0.8 ohm dual vs 1.6 single. Yet I'm barely able to get over a week for the Kayfun wick and numerous weeks with the Fogger. Very similar wicking style in both. Any ideas on why the large discrepancy?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
^ok...sorry..it was right under mine. I was thinking, "surely he's seen me around.."lol
Thank you for clarifying.
And update:
My friend's kayfun is still functioning fine...~3.2mm ID @0.8 Ohms, diagonal- 20% of the tail cut.. wick covering juice/wick wells.
I just remember a post summarizing that kayfuns seem to the hardest to get down.
Thank you for clarifying.
And update:
My friend's kayfun is still functioning fine...~3.2mm ID @0.8 Ohms, diagonal- 20% of the tail cut.. wick covering juice/wick wells.
I just remember a post summarizing that kayfuns seem to the hardest to get down.
It surely seems the kayfun poses problems for many. I think I may pick one up just for the challenge. Rayon seems to work exceedingly well in rda's now that I have a feel for the wick density.
After a lot of research I cant seem to figure out why they present such problems, but they sure seem to.
After a lot of research I cant seem to figure out why they present such problems, but they sure seem to.
Okay, tried re-wicking several times tonight. Frusteration and a lose of 5ml of juice (Had to empty a full Russian 91*
Just to clarify, if my coil bunks up after 1 tank that is because I'm using to much rayon?
If I have absolutely no flavour does that also mean I'm using to much rayon?
I can't seem to get the thickness down... Is the important thing making the wick dense, or thick enough in the coil?
See, I get warm moist vapour, tons of vapour, great vapour, but absolutely no flavour what soever. (This would make me think the rayon is two thick) But after a tank and a half I get burning, I lower the wattage, burning, I lower the wattage burning.
It's not how the build is in my Russian 91, the build is superb. I get the same issue with my Origin dripper.
So again, is it to much rayon that causes no flavour or to little?
Just to clarify, if my coil bunks up after 1 tank that is because I'm using to much rayon?
If I have absolutely no flavour does that also mean I'm using to much rayon?
I can't seem to get the thickness down... Is the important thing making the wick dense, or thick enough in the coil?
See, I get warm moist vapour, tons of vapour, great vapour, but absolutely no flavour what soever. (This would make me think the rayon is two thick) But after a tank and a half I get burning, I lower the wattage, burning, I lower the wattage burning.
It's not how the build is in my Russian 91, the build is superb. I get the same issue with my Origin dripper.
So again, is it to much rayon that causes no flavour or to little?
The biggest issue with Kayfun style atomizers and rayon is the amount of rayon that must be used chokes the juice channels if left at full density.
Pull a good amount through the coil and right outside each side of the coil separate about %30 of the wick (part it like hair) and trim it up close to the coil. Wet the wick with juice and stick it to the sides of the deck then screw the chimney on. Trying to get the wick into optimum position with the chimney on doesn't work well.
I had issues until I did it like this, optimum density in the coil has tails that are too dense for the chimney.
Pull a good amount through the coil and right outside each side of the coil separate about %30 of the wick (part it like hair) and trim it up close to the coil. Wet the wick with juice and stick it to the sides of the deck then screw the chimney on. Trying to get the wick into optimum position with the chimney on doesn't work well.
I had issues until I did it like this, optimum density in the coil has tails that are too dense for the chimney.
Also, how's the air? Does the Fogger get more than the Kayfun?
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I took a little time to document the kfl process (which is 100% identical to the Russian91% process).
Now, apart from not so good pics: this is not a tutorial, this is what works for me and my wife. Her kfl was empty again and guess who has to fill it? Right. Now, she had 5 tanks with this wick (that's what? 20ml?) and as she knows little about vaping tech, nor is she interested about it, I decided to check the wick and put another one in just to document what I do.
First off, the wick didn't look bad at all. (I also took a puff before opening, and it tasted just fine):
The coil is a 3mm one (I find larger coils easier, if only for my eyes, and for a more consistent result) and comes at 1.02 ohm. She prefers 18500's size wise and we use purple Efests for that just to be safe.
Next I took a size off the Sally rayon. I don't even cut it, just pull it off. Since it's not exactly a scarce commodity, I take a rather large chunk so that I have something to work with if/when I make mistakes:
I do not roll, but I do "defluff" a bit, I "comb" it to check for nests that could block the juice. I also washed my hands incidentally - it's amazing what difference that can make in my experience. Anyway, I do roll just a tip to make it easy to pull through:
But then I make sure I pull it far enough so that I have enough "virgin" unrolled rayon on both sides.
This is where the stretching and squeeking comes in: you want to be able to move, but not to easily; yet you don't want to stuff it. Stretch/pull a bit mover, move left/move right. Do this gently and take your time, there is no hurry, and the minute that takes you will be earned back over the course of a good performing wick.
It does look like a LOT of rayon, but that is because it is so fluffy at this point. Trust me, it takes little effort to move it back and forth in the coil.
Cutting time (measure twice, cut once, you know the drill) so that it's about long enough to touch the lower deck.
Then comes the shaving, and I really feel this is more a kfl thing than a rayon thing; I did the same with my cotton. You model the tails a bit and make them a lot thinner. The inside of the coil stays untouched, but you typically shave off the fluff that goes upwards, and the sides.
Note: as your coil will normally be at an angle, you leave the right side a bit longer than the left side, so that in the end the tail will evenly touch the lower deck.
At this point, clean up the cuttings that occur from the modelling of the tails (I forgot...
oh well she'll live 
) and start juicing the wick so that you can "glue" the tails to the side wall, like this:
Again, take a bit of time, avoid blocking the juice channels at all cost unless you just want to siphon juice out of the device out your air hole. It should be clean enough so that you can screw on the lower part of the chimney without catching or disturbing the wick.
This is how it looks with that half-chimney on:
Put a bit more drops on the coil so that you are 100% sure it is saturated before you even think of firing it. Rayon wicks great, but it does take a while before the inside of the coil - the most important part when it comes to clean flavor - is fully saturated. Fill her up, take a few primer puffs, and off you go.
Disclaimer: this is just how I do it and it seems to work consistently for me. I tried to document it visually, but there's always bits you can't fully explain, there's some "feel" involved. It might not work for you or for your juice or ambient air pressure, and may depend on the number of indigo children around. No alpacas were harmed in shooting this. Hope it helps or gives ideas, and feel free to shoot holes in it - I'm by no means an expert.
Now, apart from not so good pics: this is not a tutorial, this is what works for me and my wife. Her kfl was empty again and guess who has to fill it? Right. Now, she had 5 tanks with this wick (that's what? 20ml?) and as she knows little about vaping tech, nor is she interested about it, I decided to check the wick and put another one in just to document what I do.
First off, the wick didn't look bad at all. (I also took a puff before opening, and it tasted just fine):
The coil is a 3mm one (I find larger coils easier, if only for my eyes, and for a more consistent result) and comes at 1.02 ohm. She prefers 18500's size wise and we use purple Efests for that just to be safe.
Next I took a size off the Sally rayon. I don't even cut it, just pull it off. Since it's not exactly a scarce commodity, I take a rather large chunk so that I have something to work with if/when I make mistakes:
I do not roll, but I do "defluff" a bit, I "comb" it to check for nests that could block the juice. I also washed my hands incidentally - it's amazing what difference that can make in my experience. Anyway, I do roll just a tip to make it easy to pull through:
But then I make sure I pull it far enough so that I have enough "virgin" unrolled rayon on both sides.
This is where the stretching and squeeking comes in: you want to be able to move, but not to easily; yet you don't want to stuff it. Stretch/pull a bit mover, move left/move right. Do this gently and take your time, there is no hurry, and the minute that takes you will be earned back over the course of a good performing wick.
It does look like a LOT of rayon, but that is because it is so fluffy at this point. Trust me, it takes little effort to move it back and forth in the coil.
Cutting time (measure twice, cut once, you know the drill) so that it's about long enough to touch the lower deck.
Then comes the shaving, and I really feel this is more a kfl thing than a rayon thing; I did the same with my cotton. You model the tails a bit and make them a lot thinner. The inside of the coil stays untouched, but you typically shave off the fluff that goes upwards, and the sides.
Note: as your coil will normally be at an angle, you leave the right side a bit longer than the left side, so that in the end the tail will evenly touch the lower deck.
At this point, clean up the cuttings that occur from the modelling of the tails (I forgot...
oh well she'll live ) and start juicing the wick so that you can "glue" the tails to the side wall, like this:
Again, take a bit of time, avoid blocking the juice channels at all cost unless you just want to siphon juice out of the device out your air hole. It should be clean enough so that you can screw on the lower part of the chimney without catching or disturbing the wick.
This is how it looks with that half-chimney on:
Put a bit more drops on the coil so that you are 100% sure it is saturated before you even think of firing it. Rayon wicks great, but it does take a while before the inside of the coil - the most important part when it comes to clean flavor - is fully saturated. Fill her up, take a few primer puffs, and off you go.
Disclaimer: this is just how I do it and it seems to work consistently for me. I tried to document it visually, but there's always bits you can't fully explain, there's some "feel" involved. It might not work for you or for your juice or ambient air pressure, and may depend on the number of indigo children around. No alpacas were harmed in shooting this. Hope it helps or gives ideas, and feel free to shoot holes in it - I'm by no means an expert.
Nice job WideO, you reiterated what I said with pretty pictures and way more words. I wholeheartedly agree this is proper technique, I didn't have to do it with cotton but I also ran a 2mm coil with cotton.
Thanks for documenting your process.
When I say proper technique I simply mean you get repeatable results, there is no one "right" way to build a kayfun style device.
Thanks for documenting your process.
When I say proper technique I simply mean you get repeatable results, there is no one "right" way to build a kayfun style device.
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