Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

[JeremyR]

I guess as mentioned before if you start using rayon for the first time. Try it like you did with cotton except where you compensate density for the wick to swell. Compensate the opposite way for the wick to shrink. Prime it a lot! Wait a minute between primes. A clean hit from the get go your probably real close or close enough. Then check the wick after an hour to a tank 3-5 ml. Check for wick contact in the coil. Lightly nudge the end and see if it collapses away from the coil at the end and leaves a gap , this is too loose. Use a little more. If you taste wick it's too tight.

If your having trouble post some close up pics of your build!!!!

We can help very easily with out them.

 

[awsum140]

That's great for a dripper/rda but when it comes to everything else it's kind of best guess. t least with an RBA it can be examined easily after each tank full, but with Evods, PTs and a host of others it by guess and by gosh.

 

[JeremyR]

I posted that before seeing your post.

Evods super easy to check.. It's the things that will dump if you have to open them that are a real pain.. Well a real pain no matter what.

You just reminded me, I need to experiment ways to get proper density easier than feel. Snug but not really tight.

The rayon pen tool? Looked nice...

 

[awsum140]

I "eyeball" it, then work by feel since the eyeballs ain't what they used to be, LOL.

I will say that getting the density right is the only real problem with cellulose. Once the density is right, it works amazingly well. I've never tried cotton at all, so I really can't compare...vaping a t-shirt doesn't seem attractive to me. I am having stellar success with Protanks and like them as much as or even more than my Fogger 4.1. I know that is blasphemy to the RBA crowd but that's how good a Protank CAN work if wicked properly. OK, I cheat and use an aero base on the Protanks, but still....

 

[JeremyR]

This is for those that think rayon is contaminated.... The medical field uses it * because of its purity...

Source of course -
Swabs: Tip Materials for Flocked Swabs, Foam Tipped Swabs & More


"Unlike most man-made fibers, rayon is not a synthetic. It’s a spun fiber made from wood pulp. Much like cotton, rayon is predictably soft and absorbent and an economical choice for many applications where cotton would not be suitable. It is widely used for specimen collection. While produced from natural material, the manufacturing process eliminates any components that may damage the specimen or interfere with transport and/or processing. Puritan purchases only the finest-grade spun rayon fiber in bales, and we card the fiber ourselves to assure quality that’s up to Puritan standards."

 

[Looney Bin]

Something I've been doing lately is pulling the rayon out like I was trying to make a thin wispy sheet. Pulling out any clumps or spot that seem to have a different density. Then recompressing to form a wick. All while making sure not to bunch it up to much.

Also when I make the wick. I make it longer than I have in the past before I trim it. I find the spot in the wick that I want running through the coil and I wet it with pure VG before I slide it through the coil. That's why I'm making the wicks longer. Trying to avoid getting VG all over my hands. It helps assure good wick fit before I ever fire the coil. You don't need a lot just a few drops of pure VG.

 

[JeremyR]

Good idea! Probably helps it slide in better too. I always go way long on the wick so I've got plenty to work with and works with my stretch method.

 

[bsoplinger]

I bought a batch of NR-R-NR pre made coils from FastTech for my Kanger coils. They're cheap, the NR part helps keep the grommet from getting burnt, and I get consistent results with them. Its less than $5 for up to 50 depending on resistance. I build my coils for Kayfun and Fogger and regular rebuildable attys but I like the ease of use on Kanger coils. I used to pull the silica and replace with cotton but stopped because I had to replace the cotton too often. Once I moved to rayon for rebuildable attys decided to try that in the Kanger coils. Nice results and I now have nice coils that last awhile. Just a suggestion for the person having troubles with his coils.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[awsum140]

Again, working with an RDA or RDA and cellulose is far different that "smaller" devices. It's a matter of scale and how many are involved. For example, right now I'm rebuilding 60 CE3s. When I get done with that it'll be six T3 originals and a dozen or so Protank heads. Now, I'm not using cellulose in the CE3s, yet, due to some issues I've had using cellulose in them. I did have an "epiphany" a little while ago and will experiment further with cellulose in a CE3. If I can ever get them to work with cellulose I'll be in hog heaven!

Not only do my Protank heads with cellulose work outstandingly well, they also last for triple the life, or longer, of a stock head. I do make my own NR-R-NR wires since it allows me to customize on the fly. All it takes is a CD, spark, welder and a semi-steady hand.

 

[Snugglepooter]

It seems that going from cotton to rayon,for me,was an easy transition. Have been lucky enough to get thongs where they work great for me.

Wrapped up some 30ga on a #1 phillips screwdriver that ohmed out @ 3.0,pulled a super tight wick thru and it's chugging right along in my EHPro KFL+ @ 17w/7.0v on my DNA30

I can never get thongs to work for me.




They get caught in my dreadlocks...


/end drift/

 

[Blind Owl]

Haha yeah I didn't think it was particularly necessary, and honestly have no clue if it made any difference. I only did it because I had it disassembled for inspection and was feeling OCD.

Anyways yeah. Point is that it seems like trimming the tail isn't particularly necessary? I dunno. Hmm

*pant*pant* (catching up on this thread after a longish absence)…

re: trimming the ends to a point, yesterday I recoiled & rewicked both my Taifun GSs (the little fellows that will fit in the tank socket of an iTaste VTR).

Rather than muck around with 'novelty' coils—triple-twisted, Stevie Ray Vaughan, etc.—I decided to go biggish and simple: 28ga microcoils wrapped on a 3/32 drill bit, both 1.6 ohms. Right off the bat, I found them significantly sturdier and roomier when pulling the rayon through.

To anyone not familiar with the GS, it's designed to take a pair of SS 'feeder' wicks leading from the tank above to the coil wick. No worries about the crappy SS taste I've seen mentioned elsewhere, since they don't come into contact with the coil. Get those working right & they'll be your friends for a long, long time.

Anyhow, this time I decided to leave the rayon ends fat & fluffy, figuring that the more rayon touches the SS feeder wicks, the better the juice feed.

I have to say, these little buggers now produce so much vapor it's almost EMBARRASSING! I'm only running them @ 13W in my VTR, and that's plenty. Delivering gobs of flavor, too.

Just thought I'd report some recent findings on a specific model. Now to see how the wicks hold up.

By the way, what's the opposite of OCD? Whatever it is, I seem to be afflicted with it: my workbench looks even messier than Rossum's.

 

[Mone415]

Any1 kno why juice comes out the top of my dripper when vaping? Doesn't happen wit all my rdas jus my igo l with an atmos drip tip. Startin tuh get annoying havin tuh wipe after every hit. An it gets in my mouth causing uh peppery kina flavor caused by the nic. Could it b the drip tips too narrow? Don't get the same issue with wide bored tips although juice collects on the bottom inside those. Is that common? Sub ohm builds btw. Thanx

 

[disco180]

Any1 kno why juice comes out the top of my dripper when vaping? Doesn't happen wit all my rdas jus my igo l with an atmos drip tip. Startin tuh get annoying havin tuh wipe after every hit. An it gets in my mouth causing uh peppery kina flavor caused by the nic. Could it b the drip tips too narrow? Don't get the same issue with wide bored tips although juice collects on the bottom inside those. Is that common? Sub ohm builds btw. Thanx

All RDA's have a juice capacity limit, you are over dripping for the amount of wick inside the device, most rda's these days have good deep juice wells, the IGO L was one of the first drippers so its capacity is less. Just add more wick or drip less

 

[Mone415]

All RDA's have a juice capacity limit, you are over dripping for the amount of wick inside the device, most rda's these days have good deep juice wells, the IGO L was one of the first drippers so its capacity is less. Just add more wick or drip less

Even with the last hit tho when the cellucottons almos dry it still does it. Not as much but it's there. Tip flaw? And I usually only drip enough to saturate the wikk leavin no excess juice in the well.

 

[Mone415]

Think it might be the shape of the tip? Fixed the wikk too. Hits better now. Think ima jus haftuh use another tip. Thanx for quikk reply

 

[HolmanGT]

Think it might be the shape of the tip? Fixed the wikk too. Hits better now. Think ima jus haftuh use another tip. Thanx for quikk reply

This is not meant to be patronizing but when you drip you do remove the drip tip don't you?

I have been known to get lazy and drip thru the mouth piece and trust me that never works unless you literally like drinking your juice.

PS - I don't know why they call them drip tips because they AIN'T.

 

[JeremyR]

Thanks for the update blind owl!

I've got the flash e-vapor which is somewhat similar to the gs..

I have some stainless mesh on the way finally so I can get a good tank wicking going. Wasn't able to get it like I would like with out stainless feeder wicks.

Yep each device and build can have its own way that will work best. It's all trial and error. I can see if fat tails have a constant feed they would be fine.

 

[JeremyR]

Think it might be the shape of the tip? Fixed the wikk too. Hits better now. Think ima jus haftuh use another tip. Thanx for quikk reply

I have that when I use a short tip and a hard lung pull with a wide open air hole. Also, one tip I have goes deeper into the cap so it's closer to the coil and I can lung hit it hard enough to pull the juice off the wick.

Never though I liked the long drip tips but they are pretty sweet and I've been running a long tip on mine lately.

 

[Mone415]

This is not meant to be patronizing but when you drip you do remove the drip tip don't you?

I have been known to get lazy and drip thru the mouth piece and trust me that never works unless you literally like drinking your juice.

PS - I don't know why they call them drip tips because they AIN'T.

Haha yah I remove the tip. Been doin this for uh lil while now. Thanx for the laugh man. I needed that

 

[Mone415]

Btw my lady who doesn't vape jus said our convo sounds very perverted haha