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Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

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ukeman

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Ok one more post here; about what to use for the type of rta ie. the Prometey2 or Spheroid where the wick is built in loops (usually silica) that go UP to the filler material in the tank.

In my Prometey2 I've used silica but I like cotton for flavor and have some trouble keeping one tail up ^ to the filler without it flopping down. KGD or pad is somewhat stiffer and will hold for a while. I usually leave one tail on the base and one up to the filler.
Would Tencel or Ramie be doable?
 

etherealink

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Ok one more post here; about what to use for the type of RTA ie. the Prometey2 or Spheroid where the wick is built in loops (usually silica) that go UP to the filler material in the tank.

In my Prometey2 I've used silica but I like cotton for flavor and have some trouble keeping one tail up ^ to the filler without it flopping down. KGD or pad is somewhat stiffer and will hold for a while. I usually leave one tail on the base and one up to the filler.
Would Tencel or Ramie be doable?
Just a thought before bed... if you need to hold up a section of wick vertically, why not add a small spiral wrap of non-touching wire?

A turn or two of wire that ONLY touches the wick would make a good anchor and keep it in place nicely I think.
 

petemoss

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Ok one more post here; about what to use for the type of RTA ie. the Prometey2 or Spheroid where the wick is built in loops (usually silica) that go UP to the filler material in the tank.

In my Prometey2 I've used silica but I like cotton for flavor and have some trouble keeping one tail up ^ to the filler without it flopping down. KGD or pad is somewhat stiffer and will hold for a while. I usually leave one tail on the base and one up to the filler.
Would Tencel or Ramie be doable?

I had the same problem with my Heron and Spheroid. The rayon wick would droop down or get pushed down, losing contact with the fluff. In addition, heat from the coil was cooking my juice. Only a silica loop had the springy-ness to stay erect and touching the fluff. Someone had posted a picture of a wire harness he made to hold up a cotton wick. I think it was in a Heron thread but I can't find it anymore.

Recently I bought a Flash-e-vapor clone that had the same reservoir-above-the-coil design with feeder wicks running down from the juice reservoir to the coil wick. That is a better and more reliable design. And like the Heron and Spheroid, the FEV gives a rich, saturated vape.
 

JeremyR

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Hey Pete glad to hear you jumped on the flash evapor. I've got best results with mesh feeders tuned to your juice. 4 fiber strands of rayon stuffed in 7mmx15mm mesh for. 100vg... This baby is hard to beat.

I have the tobecco but I believe most the clones are this way - the tank air tube partially blocks the wick ports. So I ground it down almost flush with the oring so it isn't interfering with the feeders. Wick better less trouble and it allows the feeder mesh to float smoothly. So you get good light contact with the main wick.
 
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wvducklady

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First off, if you're new to rebuilding, this thread might help.

Second, the thing about organic cotton balls is that they're not as heavily processed (bleached and etc). Non-organic ones work better if you boil and rinse them first and let them dry. I used to boil them for about 20 minutes and set them in a fine mesh strainer to dry.

As far as larger inside diameter coils, I normally run my coils at 3mm or ~1/8". The catch to the micro coil is that the wraps of the coils are very close and touching if possible. The tension keeps the wraps in place after you wind it and the larger section of wick covered allows for more efficient vaporization of the liquid per button press. That also explains why cloud chasers (sub-ohm) go through so much more juice (wick material not withstanding) as the coil is vaporizing more of it over the same time, and with a lower resistance wire they need a larger inside diameter to reach the same resistance as a wire with more natural resistance.

If that makes sense, if not let me know and I'll explain further.
Thank you! That makes perfect sense :) I really appreciate that :)

Thank you everyone for your help :) I have successfully been building coils, but I had a questions, and you guys really helped answer those questions :)
 

Thraizer

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Ok I'm a believer!! had to try it for myself so I bribed the wife to come with me to Sally to pick a box of it :D I've been on rayon for 2 days now and I like it! migrating all my drippers to rayon from organic cotton. My first build on a dripper with rayon not successful, dry hit and funky taste. I didn't have enough wick density so went at it again and added a tad bit more, this thing squeaks going back and forth inside the coil which makes me cringe lol Juiced it up, vaped on it and it was spot on! a little hard to work with because its much more fibrous and fluffy compared to my cotton but that's because my thumbs and fingers are kinda rough from turning wrenches. Every time I touch it it would get caught on my fingers, damped wash cloth helped me a lot to keep my fingers somewhat moist.
 

HolmanGT

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Pictures comparing tencel and Sally's can be found here -

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/jeremyr/6502-rayon-research-posts-up-post-400.html

I also have important posts up to 1000 ; condensed in my blogs. Research information and such.

Jeremy,

The Tencel sure looks good to me. When I looked at your pictures and all those straight fibers I said to my self bunched into a coil that stuff should wick like a fire hose.

Which do you prefer Tencel or CC? Or better question which wick better?
 

wvducklady

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suspectK

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Jeremy,

The Tencel sure looks good to me. When I looked at your pictures and all those straight fibers I said to my self bunched into a coil that stuff should wick like a fire hose.

Which do you prefer Tencel or CC? Or better question which wick better?

Just in case you missed this..

Rayon fiber #1 - Sally's, balls, bottle all have been excellent for me - shine on Ray Of the suN.

Tencel - straight fiber a little stiff like silica, didn't get down with it too much seemed ok in short straight wick builds like kangers.

Ramie - straight fiber tastes like grass unless you do a uber clean like hemp. Stiffer than tencel gets weirdly stiff like stick when wet. Harder than tencel to work with. Can take a long time to figure out. Wasn't worth my time. Did ok in the short straight wick builds like the kanger.


Overall -
 

HolmanGT

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Just in case you missed this..


"Just in case I missed this" He!! suspect, this thread moves so fast I don't know if I missed it, read it or just don't remember it. :facepalm:

But thanks - you really are one of those scientific, got everything organized kind of guys. I can't find anything on ECF. The ECF search engine hates me.... "and that's the truth". ;)
 

HolmanGT

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Yeah..I know...and it's been covered a few times I'm sure, and I'm sure I'm one of the ones that asked the differences before.

I almost bought alpaca fur..

Then, me thinks.. I tried some of my hair first..I figured alpaca would be better if it was good.

Well I remember Tbev mentioning Alpaca wool but I figured if a dry hit on rayon or cotton tastes bad Alpaca would gag a maggot and figured I would just skip that stuff. :blink:

The picture of the Tencel looked like really neat stuff buy reading Jeremy's comments on it I don't think I'll be changing to it. I would rather deal with the CC fluff allover my work area.
 

JeremyR

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I prefer the fiber coil. The tencel is a little different. For ME the fluff is easier to work with and I think it wicks better.

The thread search works say you wanted to see why I said ray of the sun - do a thread Search on sun and 7th link is this - Post 4831

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-post13860726.html?highlight=Sun#post13860726


Yes.

What we are using is actually regenerated cellulose. Viscose is actually the liquid cellulose before it's regenerated by chemical reaction into regenerated cellulose fiber. In the market many of these terms are used to mean the same thing as rayon.

The name was given to it by the ftc and import goods agency's . They made up the name rayon. It debated how or who came up with it but they say its Ray from the sun; for its sheen. - on like cott'on' .


Handbook of Fiber Chemistry, Third Edition - Google Books

----

For the next forty years this material was called artificial or imitation silk. By 1925 it had developed into an industry unto itself and was given the name rayon by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC). The term rayon at this time included any man-made fiber made from cellulose. In 1952, however, the FTC divided rayons into two categories: those fibers consisting of pure cellulose (rayon) and those consisting of a cellulose compound (acetate).

Viscose rayon - the oldest man made fiber - versatile fiber yarn

Notice the FTC calls it pure cellulose

----

Encyclopedic Dictionary of Polymers, Volume 1
Encyclopedic Dictionary of Polymers - Google Books
 
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bsoplinger

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I believe you need to be logged into ECF for the search functions to work, to be enabled actually. For those with very rough hands and having issues with fluff... Why not wet down, dampen actually, the piece you're working on with some straight PG or VG which you can easily get in quantity for cheap? It'll make trimming tails much easier too. And threading through the coil.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
 

HolmanGT

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I believe you need to be logged into ECF for the search functions to work, to be enabled actually. For those with very rough hands and having issues with fluff... Why not wet down, dampen actually, the piece you're working on with some straight PG or VG which you can easily get in quantity for cheap? It'll make trimming tails much easier too. And threading through the coil.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

I am always logged in, well almost always... the system just hates me. I'll never admit I don't understand the ECF search engine. ;)

Anyway I will give the PG or VG wetting I have been meaning to try that just haven't for some reason. I have tried dampening my finger with water and for me that only makes the fluff stick to my fingers with an even greater tenacity.

I have to rebuild my fogger tonight so I'll try the PG/VG thing and see how that goes.
 

ukeman

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Just a thought before bed... if you need to hold up a section of wick vertically, why not add a small spiral wrap of non-touching wire?

A turn or two of wire that ONLY touches the wick would make a good anchor and keep it in place nicely I think.

Yeah thats what i do with the trapped end of one of the wires; loop it up to hold the KGD or Japanese Pad wick up there. You have to be careful because after a while it will loop onto the coil and mess things up but for now it beats silica (or eko/rxw) for flavor imo.
 

ukeman

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I had the same problem with my Heron and Spheroid. The rayon wick would droop down or get pushed down, losing contact with the fluff. In addition, heat from the coil was cooking my juice. Only a silica loop had the springy-ness to stay erect and touching the fluff. Someone had posted a picture of a wire harness he made to hold up a cotton wick. I think it was in a Heron thread but I can't find it anymore.

Recently I bought a Flash-e-vapor clone that had the same reservoir-above-the-coil design with feeder wicks running down from the juice reservoir to the coil wick. That is a better and more reliable design. And like the Heron and Spheroid, the FEV gives a rich, saturated vape.

FEV looks like the system for my BigBens which I used to love... they have one mesh plug from the top feeding tank that drip or leaches right to the coil from above. Problem is that getting that approx 2mm (maybe less) hole plugged just right; not too loose and not too tight to get the right drip.
Actually not a drip but ideally the mesh touches the wick/coil and leaches down.
I kind of gave up for a while after fiddling with it too many times.
The KEV may be a more reliable system.
 

awsum140

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I am always logged in, well almost always... the system just hates me. I'll never admit I don't understand the ECF search engine. ;)

Anyway I will give the PG or VG wetting I have been meaning to try that just haven't for some reason. I have tried dampening my finger with water and for me that only makes the fluff stick to my fingers with an even greater tenacity.

I have to rebuild my fogger tonight so I'll try the PG/VG thing and see how that goes.

Then the mess of fluff becomes a mess with PG or VG. When trimming the wick, the trimmings stick to my flush cutters like glue.
 

HolmanGT

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Then the mess of fluff becomes a mess with PG or VG. When trimming the wick, the trimmings stick to my flush cutters like glue.

Thanks awsum, it's back to the drawing board. Actually the fluff sticking to my hands is not all that bad and I would rather deal with that then it sticking to all my tools. Those little razor scissors I bought work great so I am not anxious to have them gummed up with VGed fluff.
 
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