RBA's (specifically cobra clone) better with VV/VW or a mech mod?

[Kyle Ezzio]

Hi, I currently own numerous mods from different mech mods to different APV's. I have numerous Itaste's, Mech mods, a provari, a NHaler Opus D dna20, etc etc...

Currently I use a mix of cartomizer tanks, protanks, vivi nova tanks, etc. I am just trying out RBA's. I just bought a Cobra clone and I'm going to order an AGA T2 and smoktek RSST as my three that I try out. I am wondering what mod I am best to use with these? A mechanical mod or a regulated mod? Thanks I appreciate it

 

[Rmcgloth]

Hi, I currently own numerous mods from different mech mods to different APV's. I have numerous Itaste's, Mech mods, a provari, a NHaler Opus D dna20, etc etc...

Currently I use a mix of cartomizer tanks, protanks, vivi nova tanks, etc. I am just trying out RBA's. I just bought a Cobra clone and I'm going to order an AGA T2 and Smoktek RSST as my three that I try out. I am wondering what mod I am best to use with these? A mechanical mod or a regulated mod? Thanks I appreciate it

I think it depends on how you set up the coils. If you like low ohms, you hit a cutoff on the vv's. they are convenient to make coils on, as you can check resistance easily. However, if you are using mesh and want to pulse the coil to oxidize the wick, the mech is the way to go. If you like it in the 2ohm range, you need the vv to get enough wattage. I generally shoot for 1.2 so I can use them either way. After that it is mainly a matter of appearance and form factor, whatever suits you.

 

[Kyle Ezzio]

I'm really not a pro at building them yet. I haven't developed a "technique" yet but I plan on watching more youtube videos before they actually show up in the mail. I decided on the cobra clone because all the reviews claim it not to be as airy as say a z atty pro or some of the others. I plan on messing around with the different ones i ordered.

 

[Rmcgloth]

I'm really not a pro at building them yet. I haven't developed a "technique" yet but I plan on watching more youtube videos before they actually show up in the mail. I decided on the cobra clone because all the reviews claim it not to be as airy as say a z atty pro or some of the others. I plan on messing around with the different ones i ordered.

Mine were decently tight when I got them. The only problem I have with mine is that I shredded an o ring putting it back together after a wash, and I can't find one that fits well. One had an air hole alignment problem that took some sorting outas well. They are pretty easy to build though.

 

[Kyle Ezzio]

Yeah once you build it how long does it typically last until you need to do it again?

 

[Rmcgloth]

Yeah once you build it how long does it typically last until you need to do it again?

Several factors involved, and it was definitely a learning process for me. At first I used mesh and a spaced wrap, and depending on the juice ( gunk factor, sweeteners) it would last for a couple tanks. I didn't have a mech then, and didn't dry burn, so when I tried to clean the coil, I had to chuck it and start over. Once I got a mech and could do long dry burns, I was able to clean the gunk off and save the coil, sometimes having to tweak hot spots out again, but not too bad. Eventually, the mesh starts to degrade and fray, then you have to start over.
I have also used stainless steel wire, which is more durable, basically you only have to rebuild when you want to, for fun or cleaning.
I now use micro coils with a cotton wick, and change the cotton every two tanks or so, but the coils last indefinitely. I should specify that I use 27 through 30 gauge wire, which is more robust than 32.
There are good threads on both methods as well as several videos. Watch superxdrifter's micro coil build. Even though it is for a reo, the principle is the same, only vertical. Xoleboot, myself, pdib and several others have pictures on the microcoil with genny setups.

 

[Bern Diesel]

Hands down, get a mech. mod and an ohms meter. You'll never use a v.v. again

 

[pdib]

different strokes, hey? Well, for me, when I started doing Gennys is when I started going below 1Ω. I found really nice vapes around 0.8Ω. Like rmcgloth said, its also really more doable for pulsing in and maintenance burns on a mech. Not to mention, if you build a 1.3Ω Genny wikicoil, it may wander down to 1.2 . . . 1.2- . . . won't fire. So, pretty soon you (not everyone, not everytime) may be building 1.5Ω, just to avoid hassles. Anyway, just for shear vape value, I would recommend the vape you get from a low resistance mechanical setup.

 

[John_]

I've only been using RBAs/RDAs for a short time but I would think it's going to depend on what kind of coil(s) you're running. If you're doing something like a microcoil, you're going to want a VV/VW device to be able to force that battery to put out a higher voltage. If you're doing lower ohm stuff and 3.X-4.2V is a enough but you need higher current to accommodate multiple coils then a mech would be better.

 

[pdib]

I do a micro-coil. @ 0.5Ω

 

[Kyle Ezzio]

i'm going to get an ohms meter good idea

 

[Kyle Ezzio]

How do you guys feel about hybrids? I'm thinking of purchasing "The Noble"

 

[vapdivrr]

i really think its good to have both a vv device and a mechanical mod at first. both will aid in your learning process. i believe when first starting out that its a good idea to start out with coils in the 1.6 to 2.0 range, this can be done with 30g wire(skip the 32g completely). starting with these resistances is a great vape and is in no way a lot whimpyer then lower resistances, its just more safe. going below the 1-ohm mark requires a bit more knowledge about battery outputs. with the typical 1.6 to 2.0 range a vv device is king. these vv devices have resistance meters built in which allows you to see exactly what your build is. once you become proficient in these builds you then can delve into lower resistances if so desired. along with the vv device a mechanical mod helps in the set-ups of your mesh builds. you see if you are doing a mesh build its best to oxidize the mesh by the actual mod, not by a flame. once you roll up a mesh wick and insert it into a coil its best to let the device or the actual heated coil oxidize the mesh for you instead of burning the mesh beforehand. this is called pulse oxidation, this can only be done with a mechanical mod. the reason is that before the wick is oxidized it is actually shorting out from the coil, a vv device senses this as a short and stops firing, thus you will get an error reading. a mechanical mod will fire because there is no chip in it. so imo, its nice to have both mods, and also a multimeter . good luck