RCR123a batteries heat up on their own and pop atty..

[Jp Infante]

So I have the prodigy v3 with the rcr123a 3v batteries.. For some reason when going to use it after sitting for a while, the atty just stopped working and the batteries start heating up even though im not pressing the button.. This has happened twice already and ive lost two atties this way.. Does anyone know what the problem is? I have two sets in rotation so I wouldnt be able to tell if its the same set that heated up both times.. Help?

 

[buGG]

check the bottom of your atty to see if the center post is indented or dislocated from its normal position (compare with a new one if possible)...it sounds like you may have overtightened your atty (especially if it's a 510) causing a dead short and very warm to hot batteries due to rapid (over)discharge.

 

[Jp Infante]

Should I disconnect the atty when im not using it to prevent this? I just lost another one right now that I had just put in a couple minutes ago.. I got rid of the primer taste then sat it down.. I pick it up and nothing.. then the batteries heat up like crazy.. im down to one!

 

[buGG]

yeah, removing the atty when not in use is always a good idea. but prevention of this type of short entails screwing on the atty just to the point of resistance really, and maybe another quarter turn, but not overtighteneing the atty on to the adapter to the point that the center post dislodges from the silicone grommet ring of the atty. take a look at this picture here:

the one in the front is like new, but the two in the back are the problem. if your attys look like these just throw them out, and don't over-tighten future attys, it's easy to do and almost seems perfectly logical, but it's not necessary and can be potentially harmful.

now you may want to take a good look at your batteries and see if they have swollen or seem out of round. if you have a multimeter put your red probe on the nipple top and the black probe on the bottom of the battery and check their voltages. direct shorts like this can over-discharge the batteries below safe limits, causing damage to them, and sometimes they can't bounce back properly. if you can't check these voltages and the batteries appear to be in good shape, you may decide to go ahead. if at all uncertain though, the best thing to do is to start fresh, new batteries and new atomizers. carefully tightening the next batch just enough should prevent that from happening in the future. here's a video from PS on this:



and there's a lot of very useful info from them and other users on their own forum as well:
PureSmoker Forum

 

[Roy Von Rogers]

I also just recently optained a V.3.1 and I also had the same problem with the batteries getting hot, and yes its because of overtighting of the aty/carto, you will get a ded short from overtighting and the batteries will get hot. Its a problem in the design, but without making the device more complicated, its hard to correct.

The center pin should float inside its insulator, the problem is when you do that, fluid can get in to the battery unless it has a seal around the pin to keep the fluid out of the battery compartment, and you would also need to cut slots so air can get in to the vapor device.

So you see its all about how complex your willing to make a device, and the costs associated.

Roy

 

[Jp Infante]

So does it make a difference whether the center area on the atty with the hole is sunk in or sticks out a little? does that make sense?

 

[Rocketman]

The advice on not over tightening the atty is good.
But if per the OP, the batteries get hot without pressing the little button, there is a problem with the mod.
You could short out the connector and there should be no current flow until you asked for current flow.
The batteries should stay cool, hot batteries are unsafe. Maybe even after they have cooled down.
Diagnosing a problem requires an accurate description of the problem.

 

[Jp Infante]

Diagnosing a problem requires an accurate description of the problem.

What do you suggest i do?

 

[Rocketman]

I assume you don't have access to a meter.

If the symptom is:
Actuated the mod once, worked OK, came back and batteries were hot, then current was flowing. The atty insulator may also be shorted, but the mod was ON when it was not supposed to be. Short inside, or stuck switch.

Putting the previously overloaded cells (they got hot once) in a mod that may have an internal short, sticking switch may cause additional damage to the mod, and/or the batteries.
Waiting for the batteries to heat up the mod means they are even hotter on the inside. So troubleshooting to find what makes the batteries heat up sounds risky. If you visually inspected the mod inside and out, and the switch feels like it is functioning properly I would contact the seller for assistance (or someone you know that can electrically troubleshoot the problem). No need to keep frying attys or put yourself in danger.

Rocky