RDA coil confusion

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Darth Xibalba

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Hello again friends, I'm back and as confused as ever. So I'm looking to start dripping, I got a 65W mech mod I want to try it out on. I've decided on a Vector rda...finally, and I don't know what kind of coils to get. I'm going to get pre made ones since I'm just starting out, but I don't know what ohm rating to get, or style. I was looking at some .45 & .5 Claptons, but not sure if that's right or not. Does it make a difference with the ohm rating when it comes to unregulated mods? What difference does the guage make? Does it just affect the longevity of the coil or what?
 
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Two_Bears

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Hello again friends, I'm back and as confused as ever. So I'm looking to start dripping, I got a 65W mech mod I want to try it out on. I've decided on a Vector RDA...finally, and I don't know what kind of coils to get. I'm going to get pre made ones since I'm just starting out, but I don't know what ohm rating to get, or style. I was looking at some .45 & .5 Claptons, but not sure if that's right or not. Does it make a difference with the ohm rating when it comes to unregulated mods? What difference does the guage make? Does it just affect the longevity of the coil or what?
Yes!

The lower the resistance of tge coil the more amps you need in a battery.

Learn Ohms law, learn how many amps your battery can provide then you will know how Low you can safely go in your resistance you can go.
 
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Darth Xibalba

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Jun 4, 2016
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Yes!

The lower the resistance of tge coil the more amps you need in a battery.

Learn Ohms law, learn how many amps your battery can provide then you will know how Low you can safely go in your resistance you can go.
OK, so according to ohms law, with my 35 amp battery, and 65 watt device it said .51 ohms. So should I do like a .7 or .9 then?
 

Darth Xibalba

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Jun 4, 2016
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Yes!

The lower the resistance of tge coil the more amps you need in a battery.

Learn Ohms law, learn how many amps your battery can provide then you will know how Low you can safely go in your resistance you can go.

Yes!

The lower the resistance of tge coil the more amps you need in a battery.

Learn Ohms law, learn how many amps your battery can provide then you will know how Low you can safely go in your resistance you can go.
My bad it said .053, not .5, so I should be good with a .45 or a .5. Any recommendations on coil types or guage?
 

Continuity

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There's no such thing as a '35A' battery, or a '65W mechanical mod' for that matter...

What kind of battery do you actually have (brand etc)? What kind of mech mod is it?

Before you do yourself an injury, I would learn about 18650 safety/quality, Ohm's Law and how vaping works in general.

If you're just starting vaping, I would recommend starting with a regulated mod, and a dripper or RTA with an RBA and learn how to build coils etc using that.

Use Steamengine (Google it) to get to grips with resistance, wire gauge, diameter, different metals and importantly - learn what 'heat flux' is and what affects it and why.
 
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Baditude

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I'm back and as confused as ever. I got a 65W mech mod...
Yes, you are confused. :blink: There's no such thing as a 65W mech mod.

Mechanical (unregulated) mods don't have any electronics or regulator to put out power or watts. The power comes directly from the battery and the resistance of the coils being used.

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

I don't know what ohm rating to get, or style. I was looking at some .45 & .5 Claptons, but not sure if that's right or not. Does it make a difference with the ohm rating when it comes to unregulated mods?

The ohm rating, or resistance, of the coils has EVERYTHING to do with an unregulated, mechanical mod. The two most important things to know when using coils in an RBA is to know the amp limit of the battery you have and to know the measured resistance of your coil. This is where Ohm's Law comes into play. If you come away with anything after reading this, this is it.

When you push the button on a mech mod, you complete a DC circuit. The battery in your mod doesn't know or doesn't care what the resistance of the coil wire is. All the battery knows is the circuit is complete. And that it has to obey Ohms Law. Ohm's Law Explained for Vapers

Ohms Law says that the amount of amps will be equal to the voltage divided by the resistance. The more resistance you have with the coil, the higher the ohms will be and the less amps from the battery are needed. The lower the resistance of the coil, the lower the ohm will be and higher amps will be required to fire the coil.

1.0 ohm coil = 4.2 amp draw from battery
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway​

It doesn't matter if the battery can safely do this. It's what the battery has to do by completing the circuit.

So if you ask a battery to provide more amps than it is capable of, it is going to get hot trying to power the coil. Just like a thin extension cord gets hot when you draw too many amps thru it.

But a battery isn't an extension cord. It is a cylinder full of chemical compounds. And these chemical compounds can rapidly react, breakdown and even burn/explode. And when they do, they release gases. This is called "thermal runaway", or venting. It's these vented gases that can build up in your mod causing it to explode. Thus, mechanical mods must have adequate vent holes to allow the escape of gas.

If you're going to use a mech mod, you have to be able to calculate how many amps you are going to ask your battery to safely provide. Then you have to look at what the "continuous" amp rating is for the battery; this is the "amp limit" of the battery.

So if you battery is rated at 20 amps continuous discharge, you should not build anything that requires the battery to provide more than about 18 Amps. You should always leave a little "headroom" or safety margin.

In review, when you build your coil and fire it on your mod, it will draw a specific amount of current (amps) from the battery. That current must not be more than the total amps in continuous discharge rate of the battery, or very bad things could happen.

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations

What difference does the guage make? Does it just affect the longevity of the coil or what?
The "gauge" of the wire is the thickness of the wire.

Thinner wire has a higher resistance, so a coil made of thinner wire will require more volts but less amps to fire it. Thicker wire has a lower resistance, so a coil made of thicker wire will require less volts but more amps to heat up the coil. Thicker wire provides more "surface area" to vaporize e-liquid, which is a plus to make "clouds", but the increased mass of the thicker wire takes longer to heat up the coil so the "ramp up time" will be longer. So, there are tradeoffs in what size wire to choose to use. One gauge is not better than another gauge, what you choose to use depends upon your personal preferences, which you don't yet know.

In my experience, thicker gauge wire is more durable than thinner gauge wire.

26 or 28 gauge Kanthal is a good starting place to make simple coils. Use a coil calculator (ie Steam Engine) to decide how many wraps and what diameter coil to make to meet your target resistance.

Information Resources for Your First RBA
 
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Darth Xibalba

Senior Member
Jun 4, 2016
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There's no such thing as a '35A' battery, or a '65W mechanical mod' for that matter...

What kind of battery do you actually have (brand etc)? What kind of mech mod is it?

Before you do yourself an injury, I would learn about 18650 safety/quality, Ohm's Law and how vaping works in general.

If you're just starting vaping, I would recommend starting with a regulated mod, and a dripper or RTA with an RBA and learn how to build coils etc using that.

Use Steamengine (Google it) to get to grips with resistance, wire gauge, diameter, different metals and importantly - learn what 'heat flux' is and what affects it and why.
I have a LG HE2 2500 mAh 35A battery, and the mod is a Maraxus mech mod v3
 

sofarsogood

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Oct 12, 2014
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Hello again friends, I'm back and as confused as ever. So I'm looking to start dripping, I got a 65W mech mod I want to try it out on. I've decided on a Vector RDA...finally, and I don't know what kind of coils to get. I'm going to get pre made ones since I'm just starting out, but I don't know what ohm rating to get, or style. I was looking at some .45 & .5 Claptons, but not sure if that's right or not. Does it make a difference with the ohm rating when it comes to unregulated mods? What difference does the guage make? Does it just affect the longevity of the coil or what?
How about set the mech mod aside for a while run your coils on a regulated mod and do some more reading. Almost all the vape related injury accidents involve mech mods.
 

Baditude

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I have a LG HE2 2500 mAh 35A battery, and the mod is a Maraxus mech mod v3
That battery is only a 20 amp CDR battery.
LG HE2 20A 2500mAh 18650 Bench Retest Results...a very good 20A battery

I agree with sofarsogood. You've shown that you've got a lot to learn and understand before you start sub-ohming on a mechanical mod. A mech and sub-ohm RDA is not a TOY to play with. In uninformed hands, it could be extremely dangerous.

Don't get us wrong, we're happy that you are here asking questions. That will hopefully keep your face intact. Until you are ready, put the mech down and use a regulated mod. A regulated mod has protection circuitry which will be safer and keep you out of trouble.
 
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Continuity

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Yeah - who gave you the idea that's a '35A' CDR battery?

I mean it's a perfectly decent 20A CDR cell, but saying that it's safely capable of putting out nealy 200% of it's rated capacity is just plain dangerous...

I would seriously think about investing in a nice, affordable regulated mod (like a VTC Mini or similar) and learn how to use your dripper on that before you start with the mech mods.

Why are you so keen to start with the mech stuff, anyway? Have you been listening to certain people promising 'sick cloudz (bro)' that can only be had doing super-subohm Twisted Alien coils and an RDA? (that's not true, BTW)
 
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Darth Xibalba

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Yeah - who gave you the idea that's a '35A' CDR battery?

I mean it's a perfectly decent 20A CDR cell, but saying that it's safely capable of putting out nealy 200% of it's rated capacity is just plain dangerous...

I would seriously think about investing in a nice, affordable regulated mod (like a VTC Mini or similar) and learn how to use your dripper on that before you start with the mech mods.

Why are you so keen to start with the mech stuff, anyway? Have you been listening to certain people promising 'sick cloudz (bro)' that can only be had doing super-subohm Twisted Alien coils and an RDA? (that's not true, BTW)
Nobody said it was 35A,that's just what I thought. I didn't know. I just got this mech mod cuz it looked cool, and I wanted to check it out, but now I don't know what to do with it. Should I just put a tank on it or what?
I have regulated mods, like the ipv d2, target, & heatvape invader mini. I think I'll try out the rba on the ipv d2. The battery in that one is a mnke imr 1500mah 3.7v.
 
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Continuity

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Naah - keep it, and use it if you want to, but only *after* you've familiarised yourself with the basics of coil-building (or at least coil-specifying), Ohm's Law and battery safety etc.

If you're not really up for rolling your own coils, then a mech mod really doesn't sound like it's for you, to be honest - they're quite 'high maintenance' - but it's actually a lot easier than you probably think - it's learning *why* they must be the specifications they have to be to vape safely and well that is a large part of the real art of it.

I would keep the mech and the dripper, but learn how to use the dripper on your regulated mods first, then think about moving to using the mech.

*Always* measure the resistance of your coils before sticking them on a mech - you can use one of your regulated mods to do this.
 

Baditude

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I just got this mech mod cuz it looked cool, and I wanted to check it out, but now I don't know what to do with it. Should I just put a tank on it or what?
You could put a tank on your mech, maybe a uwell Crown sub0hm tank, or aspire Atlantis subOhm tank. Both use factory-made replacement coils.

Or, just use coils in your RBA that you know are within the amp limit of your LG HE2 battery (20 amps). Don't use a coil resistance less than 0.4 ohm if you're going to buy pre-built coils.
 
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Darth Xibalba

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You could put a tank on it, maybe a uwell Crown sub0hm tank. Uses factory-made replacement coils.

Or, just use coils in your RBA that you know are within the amp limit of your LG HE2 battery (20 amps). Don't use a coil resistance less than 0.4 ohm if you're going to buy pre-built coils.
So if I put a tank on the mech, ( I have a Cubis, Freemax starre pro, or an Atlantis v2) I should use coils that are 0.5 ohm or higher?
 

IMFire3605

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OK, so according to ohms law, with my 35 amp battery, and 65 watt device it said .51 ohms. So should I do like a .7 or .9 then?

65watt device, are you confusing a regulated mod with a real mechanical, or a Faux Unregulated like a Tesla 2. A full mech is just a glorified flashlight housing, about the only circuitry in one would be a Mosfet chip to keep the switch from frying out. A full mech also has only restriction in what you can run boils down to your battery CDR, and the only throttle is the coil. If it is as I am thinking, a Faux Unregulated/Mechanical with that 65watt limit, where a full mechanical you deal with this "Ohm's Law" Formula of "Voltage/Resistance (ohms)=Maximum amps", a device that regulates your power output in any way is a regulated mod, the "Ohm's Law" Formula then would be "Watts/Lowest Battery Charge=amp subtotal/0.9 (90% chipset efficiency)=Final Max Amps". Would help to know also what the name brand is on that re-wrapped battery, as all above have said it is not a 35amp battery, highest amp batteries on the market are LG's HB Series (HB2, HB4, HB6 (true 30amp CDR at 1500mah)) and Sony's VTC3 (rated 30amp True CDR, tested maxes at 28amp CDR at 1600mah), anyone else says higher, they are using the Pulse Discharge Ratings of the authentic A bins from the main manufacturer (which are Sony, LG, Samsung, and (lower end) Panasonic/Sanyo) <-Everyone else buys their batteries from these guys, and generally the discards that didn't match up to snuff (B and C Bin discards) so already not passing muster to begin with).

So, 65watts/3.2v (lowest known cutoff voltage before shutoff in most mods)=20.3125amps/90%=22.5694 Max Amps that mod could potentially ask of your battery. On a regulated Ohm's only come into play if the chipset of the mod supports that low an ohm rating, after that you go into "Watts Law" (subset of Ohm's Law) as given example here. The Vector is mainly a flavor RDA, clapton coils are well known for their ability to produce flavor, so the combination would be stellar flavor. 2x 1ohm clapton coils in parallel would bring the resistance down to 0.5 in theory, still safe even on a mech, 2x 0.5ohm clapton coils in parallel would in theory be a 0.25ohm reading, again still plenty safe even on a mech with a 20amp CDR battery (4.2v/0.25ohm=16.8amps).
 

IMFire3605

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I have a LG HE2 2500 mAh 35A battery, and the mod is a Maraxus mech mod v3

LG "Never" rated the HE2 at 35amps, 35amps is the Pulse Discharge (which can be half a second up to 3 seconds so is a disasterous rating to use with vaping), the HE2 is rated at 20amp Continuous Discharge, this the max discharge the battery can sustain a full discharge from 4.2v down to about 3.0v. Lowest I would build on any Mech with a 20amp CDR battery is like stated above 0.25ohms, a true 30amp I don't go below 0.2ohm, if you have to go lower than that to chuck a thunder cloud you are doing it wrong and need to look at your RDA, airflow, and wicking, its all about balance and mimicking mother nature on making the perfect cloud machine by then.
 

Darth Xibalba

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Jun 4, 2016
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65watt device, are you confusing a regulated mod with a real mechanical, or a Faux Unregulated like a Tesla 2. A full mech is just a glorified flashlight housing, about the only circuitry in one would be a Mosfet chip to keep the switch from frying out. A full mech also has only restriction in what you can run boils down to your battery CDR, and the only throttle is the coil. If it is as I am thinking, a Faux Unregulated/Mechanical with that 65watt limit, where a full mechanical you deal with this "Ohm's Law" Formula of "Voltage/Resistance (ohms)=Maximum amps", a device that regulates your power output in any way is a regulated mod, the "Ohm's Law" Formula then would be "Watts/Lowest Battery Charge=amp subtotal/0.9 (90% chipset efficiency)=Final Max Amps". Would help to know also what the name brand is on that re-wrapped battery, as all above have said it is not a 35amp battery, highest amp batteries on the market are LG's HB Series (HB2, HB4, HB6 (true 30amp CDR at 1500mah)) and Sony's VTC3 (rated 30amp True CDR, tested maxes at 28amp CDR at 1600mah), anyone else says higher, they are using the Pulse Discharge Ratings of the authentic A bins from the main manufacturer (which are Sony, LG, Samsung, and (lower end) Panasonic/Sanyo) <-Everyone else buys their batteries from these guys, and generally the discards that didn't match up to snuff (B and C Bin discards) so already not passing muster to begin with).

So, 65watts/3.2v (lowest known cutoff voltage before shutoff in most mods)=20.3125amps/90%=22.5694 Max Amps that mod could potentially ask of your battery. On a regulated Ohm's only come into play if the chipset of the mod supports that low an ohm rating, after that you go into "Watts Law" (subset of Ohm's Law) as given example here. The Vector is mainly a flavor RDA, clapton coils are well known for their ability to produce flavor, so the combination would be stellar flavor. 2x 1ohm clapton coils in parallel would bring the resistance down to 0.5 in theory, still safe even on a mech, 2x 0.5ohm clapton coils in parallel would in theory be a 0.25ohm reading, again still plenty safe even on a mech with a 20amp CDR battery (4.2v/0.25ohm=16.8amps).
I was just confused on the battery, it's 20 not 30. And the mech is a true mech, it's just the guy I bought it from said something about it being 65w. I've since erased the email so I couldn't recheck it. Like I said I'll probably just put a tank on the mech, and try out the dripper on my IPV d2
 
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